• Re-cycled wood shavings  - such as Oz-Pet Litter:  These are the ones we use In our shop (for the Anmal Welfare League cats we are trying to re-home). We use a product called Oz-Pet litter. This is made of re-cycled wood chips made into pellets. We use it with the special sieve litter tray that Oz-Pet also make. The pros of this product are: It absorbs smells really well; when it gets wet the pellet crumbles so you just have to sieve it and then throw out just the wet product; it’s relatively cheap to use once you’ve purchased the Oz pet Tray; it’s environmentally friendly. We’ve never had a problem with a cat changing to it. There are other companies products on the market which are similar but we have not found one that works quite as well as Oz-Pet.
• Crystal Litter - such as Rudducks Litta Beads: These work well at absorbing urine and smells and last for a long time before they need completely changing. They are however not as environmentally friendly and are generally more expensive.  
• Re-cycled paper pellets - such as Breeders Choice litter:  These are very common as most supermarkets sell them. They are reasonable at absorbing urine and are cheap but they are not the best at keeping odours down.
• Coconut Husk shavings - such as Kitty's Crumble: These are a new player on the block. It’s  great at absorbing smells, the cats like it and it’s environmentllay friendly too. Can get kicked out easily by the cat so a high sided litter tray or enclosed litter tray is recommend.
• Clay based Litter - such as Misty’s Clumping Litter: One of the oldest methods. Absorbs urine well and is cheap but you tend to throw more out as the urine spreads the clay. Not the best at keeping smells down, although a lot of the higher end ones now have fragrance added.
• Litter Free Options - such as the Kitty Kat Pet Loo & Litter Kwitter). There are now products on the market which you can train your cat to use instead of litter and a litter tray. Litter Kwitter is a patented device you can use to train your cat over several weeks to use a human toilet! They can’t flush though J. Products such as Kitty Loo are artificial grass on an elevated plastic tray. The cat uses the grass as if it was real grass. Any urine runs through collected in  a tray for easy emptying. Just wash down the grass with detergent and water.  These products cost more at the outset but over time you save money as you will not have to purchase litter.  

And remember, most cats don’t like to change litter – so ease them into gradually.

When shopping for the best dog food for your canine family member, you need to consider a wide range of nutrients. Dogs have a lot of nutrition needs that most pet owners may not be aware of. Here are some important things to remember when you shop pet foods.

Dogs must have a lot of different minerals and vitamins in their diets. They also need amino acids and fatty acids. These things should be delivered in proper proportions each day. You may wish to read products labels for ingredients, but it can often be confusing with so much information.

To avoid the confusion that can come from studying product labels, it is best to depend on the AAFCO for nutritional information. AAFCO means Association of American Feed Controls Officials. They are the ones that provide canine nutritional standards. Pet foods should have a reference to the AAFCO on their labels, if they conform to standards. This lets you know that you are buying a product that provides proper nutrition.

There are two kinds of pet foods that have AAFCO statements on their labels. Products designed for adult maintenance can be the sole source of food for your pet. It will get all of the important nutrients that it requires. You will not have to supplement your pet's diet with any other foods.

AAFCO specifications apply to dogs that are pregnant or are still nursing their pups. It also applies to puppies that are still developing and growing. These products will give puppies and mothers all of the things that they need, as far as nutrition is concerned.

Pet food AAFCO statements can be obtained through a series of complete testing procedures. This takes place in the laboratory. However, some products are verified by lab testing and from trials with real dogs. This is a more complete form of nutritional testing. When you shop pet foods you may come across products that are designed for supplemental feeding. This means that they do not meet AAFCO specifications. These are not good products to feed your pet every day. However, they are fine for occasional feeding.

If you read product labels you can find a great deal of information. Make sure that pet foods have a statement about AAFCO rules or standards. This tells you that they contain complete canine nutrition. Lab and trial tested products provide the most reliable source of information. Products made for all stages of life are the best dog food for puppies as well as adults.

Saturday morning and it's time to bathe the pooch! What are you going to bathe it in? While that sounds like a simple question, it can be quite complex. It really depends on what you are trying to achieve. If you just want to clean the dog, that's easy, but what about the spot-on-the-neck insecticide you used a short while ago? Will that be washed off? What if your pooch or puss-cat has a skin condition - will a shampoo help that? Oh - it's all too complicated but maybe the following will assist.

How Often Should I Bath My Pet?

Pets with a normal coat and skin should need bathing no more than once per week. Once a fortnight will probably suffice. However, if your pet has a skin condition such as an allergy or infection, then it may need bathing twice a week to control the problem.

Bathing your pet in a tub or in your own bath makes the job much easier. The ordeal will also be a lot more comfortable for the pet if you use warm water. Apart from the comfort factor, warm water will also ensure a more effective cleaning process as the warmth will mobilise unwanted grease and scales.

Following the instructions on the pack regarding the correct use of the shampoos is important. For instance, many shampoos contain medications in one form or another. To be effective, most medicated shampoos need to stay in contact with the pet's coat for five to ten minutes before being rinsed off.

To make it easier to bathe your pet, many veterinarians and animal welfare agencies are now operating hydrobaths at their centres. A hydrobath is a 'walk in' bath, equipped with a high pressure hose. The pressure gently massages the dirt and debris out of the pet's coat. If you cannot get your pet to the vet, then another option is to enlist the services of one of several mobile hydrobath companies that will conveniently visit your home and do an excellent job for you.

What Should I Bath My Pet With?

Deciding which pet shampoo to use is not that easy. If you look at the active ingredients, you will become quite bewildered. Some are designed only to clean your pet while others will help with flea control. Some are conditioning and de-tangling shampoos, while others are designed to help solve skin conditions where grease, scale or crusts appear in the coat. There are even conditioners available, just as there are for humans!

For the routine bathing of pets, shampoos containing gentle flea control compounds make sense to me. There are a variety of these shampoos on the market such as Fido's Fre-Itch Shampoo, and Di-Flea Dog and Cat Insecticidal Shampoo. These products leave the coat clean and shiny and kill fleas that are present at the time of bathing. However, they have no residual flea killing effect.

If your pet seems to have sensitive skin, then a hypo-allergenic shampoo could be just what is needed. Such shampoos are soap free and usually contain moisturising agents such as glycerine or coconut oil. The products, Natural Shampoo by Dermcare Vet, and Fido's Everyday Shampoo are readily available from your veterinary surgeon but there are many others.

There is another reason for using a soap free shampoo. If you are using any of the 'spot-on-the-neck' insecticides, a soap-based shampoo may remove the insecticide. However, the hypo-allergenic shampoos are much less likely to do this.

My Pet Has a Skin Condition. What Shampoo Should I use?

A medicated shampoo will be useful if your pet has an oily or greasy coat or has scales or dandruff present. Problems like this are often seen around the base of the tail and along the spine and are often related to flea bite allergic dermatitis or other skin conditions.

For instance, if your pet has dry, itchy skin, shampoos containing colloidal oatmeal, such as Aloveen or Epi-Soothe are useful. The oatmeal is a soap substitute that breaks up particles of dirt in the coat. Also, particles of oatmeal remain in the skin and promote the flow of moisture into the dry skin surface.

Recently 'residual conditioners' have been introduced to help with such conditions. These conditioners are left on the coat rather than being rinsed away. They condition the damaged hair and contain emollients which re-hydrate the skin, prolonging the effect of the oatmeal in the shampoo used just prior to the conditioner.

Dogs with smelly, greasy skin need a different approach. Many have a bacterial or yeast infection present. Some also have a fungal skin infection. For such animals, shampoos containing an antiseptic compound such as chlorhexidine or triclosan are useful. One shampoo that contains a combination of effective compounds is Malaseb. This is often prescribed by vets as it contains chlorhexidine to kill bacteria, miconazole to kill any fungal infection and a therapeutic base that helps to descale the coat and remove dandruff that has accumulated.

Should I Use Human Shampoos on My Pets?

Lastly, a word about human shampoos is needed. While many do use human shampoos on their dogs, it is better not to. Human skin is more acidic than dog skin, and dog and cat skins are much thinner than that of a human. Other differences exist too, all of which means that for the optimum health of your pet's skin, you should use shampoos designed for pets, not humans, when bathing your pets.

Firstly we have to break our habits. We have to stop feeding a cup of dry food because that’s what we’ve always done. We have to stop giving him that biscuit or piece of pizza “because he’s so cute”. Of course there’s always the “but he’s starving!”, “he always look so hungry” argument. If he’s overweight or obese, by definition he cannot be starving - he’s just trying it on.

Next we have to look at what food you’re feeding him. Depending on how overweight they are you could try one of several different things. You could cut down the amount of the current food you are feeding. Better still you could purchase a “diet” or “lite” premium pet food. The diet or light premium pet foods have lower calories, higher fibre to make them more filling and also additional ingredients such as L-Carnitine which helps with the burning of fat.  If your dog is seriously obese, consider talking to your vet about a “prescription diet”.

Treats, even training treats, must be cut down or must be turned into lower fat treats.

If your dog is on a Bones and Raw Food Diet instead of a premium dry food diet, you should cut down, say a third, of the amount of meat and fatty bones and replace with extra vegetables.

And now comes the exercise bit. If however your dog is “just a little overweight” or “I haven’t seen his waist in a while” then exercise is key.  Go for more walks and longer walks – you’ll get fitter to. If he can’t already retrieve, teach him and then spend time in the morning or when you come home throwing the ball for him. Never increase your pets exercise radically in one go. Unlike most humans they will keep going past the point of exhaustion to please you and you don’t want to hurt them. If your dog is seriously overweight or has joint or mobility issues you should seek medical advice before exercising your dog differently.

Good luck with your new regime!

Are the nights getting cooler and the days getting shorter?  Are the early mornings feeling ‘fresher’?  Reaching for warmer clothes and a jumper?

While we can pull on a jumper or turn on the heater to keep ourselves warm, our pets rely on us to keep them safe and warm.  If we’re starting to notice a change in temperature then so are our pets.

The number one thing for your dog or puppy during winter is somewhere warm and comfortable to sleep with protection from wind & the cold in general. 

For outside dogs, kennels should be lined with a warm rug or mat and ideally be slightly raised off the ground so they don’t catch a chill and to prevent moisture accumulation.   If you don’t have a protected area where your dog can sleep (even in a kennel) then consider bringing them inside during wet and windy weather. 

Remember the impact of thunderstorms on your dog as well.  The loud claps of thunder and bright lightening can be very distressing and we often have stray dogs wandering into the shop after an afternoon storm.  ID tags for collars and microchipping are a must to help others to help your dog find their way home.

Inside dogs still require a sheltered spot in the house and a nice warm bed or cushion.
Remember to keep an eye on them if they’re too close to the heater or fire.  Some inside dogs may actually become uncomfortable if the house is too over-heated for them as well so they should also have access to a cooler area.  

Young puppies are particularly susceptible to the cold as are older dogs with more sluggish circulatory systems that make it a little harder to stay warm.  Remember too that if your dog is an arthritis sufferer that this will be made worse by the cold.

Dogs with lower percentages of body fat or dogs with single coats/short hair may benefit from a coat or jacket.  Heat pads under the bedding can also provide a soft, gentle heat.

Most dogs will also shed their summer coats in Autumn before putting on their winter coat. This is usually light (certainly lighter than when they shed their winter coat!) but special attention should be paid to hair coats and daily or weekly brushing (as needed) should help your pet and you be happier

Feeding can be a bit of a balancing act over winter to maintain your dogs weight.  Some of the finer coated dog breeds may actually require a little extra food to maintain their weight. Others may have slightly less activity during winter and will therefore require less food to prevent them from gaining weight. 

Outside dogs or working dogs may also need additional food during winter to meet the ‘warming’ demands of their bodies.

It’s good practice for any time of year to be aware of changes in weight of any of your pets and to adjust your portions accordingly.  Watching the treats is always good advice !

Winter months generally mean less daylight and more darkness – possibly limiting the time we may have to get out and about and exercise with our pets. 

When you can’t get out as much as you like, think about what you can do at home to keep your pets active and entertained.  Filling a treat ball with some liver jerky or a Kong with a smidgeon of Vegemite can keep your dog busy.  If you have a good sized backyard, there’s always the option of the automatic ball throwers (such as the Go-Dog-Go Fetch Machine) for hours of fun and activity.  There are also many interactive toys available to keep them busy. 

For extra safety during the winter whilst walking your dogs, night blinkers and reflective collars, leads & harnesses are available to help you both out.

It can be easy during winter to make the mistake of thinking that pets need less to drink. Clean fresh water should be available & having more than one source of water for your pet is a must.  A waterer is a great way to ensure a steady supply is available at all times.

And don’t forget lots of warm cuddles, pats, strokes & some time inside with you for all your pets during winter! 

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

Of course pet insurance tends not to be that cheap relatively. This is actually because the likelyhood of you needing to use it is high, hence the dividends are high. Many people only think of taking insurance out when their dogs gets older. However, many injuries that require serious amounts of vet bills occur in younger, very active dogs. Also, if your dog picks up a serious disease or the dreaded paralysis tick or snake bites, the cost of keeping them in hospital, on a drip and with appropriate medication can again run into the thousands.

Be sure to read the fine print of any policy as well.  Like other insurance policies, most will have an excess fee which can be reduced by increasing your monthly premium.  There are also varying levels of cover available such as full "all expenses" cover which includes accident and injury as well as vaccinations and some general care costs.

So, there’s no easy way to answer this question – if you can afford to pay the insurance then, yes it could well be a good investment. There is many a vet story of the vet not being able to help or save a pet because the owner cannot afford the bill. However, you should definitely shop around – there are numerous insurance companies, some attached to your bank, car, or house insurance as well as many other insurance companies and even the RSPCA. There are numerous different levels of coverage, different inclusions and various amounts of excess. Some will help pay towards  certain items through the year such as vaccines and flea treatments. So do your research.

And finally, here’s hoping, even if you have pet insurance, you never need to use it. 

When searching for the best dog food products, it is important to provide a balanced diet. Dogs have special needs when it comes to nutrition, and these needs must be met for optimum health. Here are tips for meeting those needs, so your dog can be satisfied and enjoy good health for many years.

Dogs require things like fatty acids and amino acids in their diet. They also need a lot of different vitamins. These things must be provided on a daily basis. If you take the time to completely read all the product labels when you shop, it can be very time consuming and sometimes confusing.

Maybe you do not have the time to read every product label in its entirety, when shopping. The most important thing to look for is the minimum nutrition requirements. Products that meet AAFCO standards will state so on the label. AAFCO is an abbreviation for the Association of American Feed Controls Officials. This organization sets nutritional standards for animal and pet foods. This is why it is vital to check for a nutritional statement concerning AAFCO standards.

Pet foods that conform to AAFCO rules will be in a specific category. The "adult maintenance" category concerns proper nutrition for adult dogs. The product will be sufficient to keep dogs alive without supplementing diet. This is a complete dog food product.

The second AAFCO nutrition category concerns "growth and reproduction". This concerns females that are either pregnant or currently nursing. It also concerns puppies. These products will have everything that growing puppies and pregnant females need for nutrition.

If manufacturers claim that their product meets AAFCO standards, it can be obtained by complete testing in the lab. Products must meet all the necessary testing requirements. However, some products take it a step further and are verified in the lab and with feeding trials and studies. If you are shopping pet foods and find products for "supplemental feeding", they do not meet minimum nutrition requirements and should not be the only item in canine diets.

When you shop pet foods, it is important to read product labels. Look for foods that conform to AAFCO specifications. If a product does not meet minimum requirements, it is not good for daily feeding to your pet. The best dog food products are lab tested and trial tested. This insures that you are providing proper nutrition. Products sold as "good for all life stages" are good for adults as well as puppies.

• Food – a premium food is always recommended over cheaper alternatives. There are a number of reasons why veterinarians recommend these premium foods. We have a variety of foods available. Please ask our staff to explain the differences. Always check the specific size and age requirement for your puppy.
• Bowls – for water and food. It is recommended that more than one water bowl is used, in case your puppy knocks the bowl over. Consider the size of your puppy when purchasing bowls.
• Bed – consider the size your puppy is now and the size it will grow into. For larger dogs, allow room for your puppy to grow – larger breed puppies can grow quickly. If your dog is to spend a lot of time outside a mat or flea free bed for outside should be considered as well as a kennel. 
• Flea, Intestinal Worming & Heartworm treatments – your breeder or the place you purchased your puppy from should have told you what treatments your puppy has had and when it’s next ones are due. Flea treatment is usually given once a month, intestinal worming every 2 or 4 weeks for the first 6 months and heartworm every 6 months. Please ask our staff to explain the different options and requirements. We recommend you ask your vet to run through the requirements for ongoing treatment when you take your puppy for it’s vaccinations. 
• Toys – Toys are not just for your puppy to “play” with. They help to occupy and stimulate your puppy as well as help with teething. Chewing is a natural urge for most dogs. A variety of toys or treat balls and rotating them to prevent boredom is recommended. Consider as a starter a “Kong” toy, a cuddly toy or rope toy and a treat ball.
• Treats – a variety of healthy or natural treats are available. Treats should be used for both training purposes and to help relieve separation anxiety in new puppies.
• Crate Training & Toilet Training Aids – crate training is a great way to help your dog settle into their new home, feel safe and help with toilet training.  Crate training also helps for when your puppy has to travel or stay at the vets. Puppy training pads are also available and with added attractants can help train your puppy to use a particular area. Please remember some puppies may not have full control of their bladder until they are 16 weeks old, so patience and persistence is the key.
• Collar & Lead – whilst your puppy may be too young to take for walks yet, it’s a good idea to get it used to wearing a collar and even walking around the house on a lead. Try to get a collar that allows for rapid growth in the first few months and is also strong enough to hold your puppy without breaking.
• Grooming Brushes / Combs – a variety of brushes and combs are available for different sized dogs and breeds. All dogs require regular combing and brushing to remove dead, loose hair and to prevent matting.
• Shampoo – many people like to wash their new puppy. Ensure you get one recommended for puppies or an organic (no-chemical) shampoo.
• Training Guides – to help you through the requirements for training your puppy and to understand their development needs. we recommend the excellent “Ultimate Puppy” training guide Please also ask us for a list of local puppy pre-schools – these are a must for socializing young puppies and preventing future behaviour issues.

Check out our ideas on essential items for your new puppy.  New puppy packages save you 10% as well !

The short answer is no more than every 2 weeks (unless advised otherwise by your vet). Once a month is ideal for your dog’s skin and coat. If you wash your dog too often the skin becomes dry and flakey. Washing away the natural oils on a dogs skin may also lead to skin irritation and itchiness. You can freshen up your dog in between baths using a “dry shampoos”, pet wipes, canine deodourising sprays and doggie colognes. There are a number of these available – check out our online store or ask in-store.

Using the correct shampoo

Be careful to use the correct shampoo for your dog – and never use human shampoo. Your dog’s skin has a different acidity to human skin and therefore human shampoo may irritate your dog.   Puppies also have different skin to adult dogs and that is why there are separate Puppy shampoos.   Unless your dog needs a medicated shampoo for skin conditions, always try and use a soap free shampoos or “natural” shampoos.

Flea and tick shampoos are a help if your dog has a flea or tick infestation but they are not the best source of treatment and therefore should be used as a back up only. Be careful if you have used a spot on flea or tick treatment in the last few days as the shampoo can interfere with how many topical flea treatments work (even after the product has dried). 

Common types of dog shampoo

• Soap-Free Shampoo - some shampoo's are gentle, soap-free and less likely to irritate your dog's skin.  If you're looking for a standard shampoo then choose a low irritant, soap-free dog shampoo.
• Oatmeal Based Shampoo - oatmeal based shampoo's can soothe as well as cleanse itchy dry skin on dogs and cats.  A good choice if your dog is prone to flaky dry skin, redness and skin irritations.
• Medicated Shampoo - there is a range of medicated shampoo available to treat a wide range of dog skin conditions including anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-itch.  If you're not sure what you need speak with your vet or pet care expert.
• Flea Shampoo - a flea shampoo can be used to kill active adult fleas on your dog.  A good choice for instant relief however longer term preventions and treatment is also required.  Flea shampoo's can interfere with spot on flea treatments so check with your pet store on when to use a flea shampoo.

You can Check our our range of dog shampoo here

The best dog food for your pet should provide a well balanced diet. Dogs have specific nutrition needs and it is important that they be met on a daily basis. Here is a more detailed look at canine nutrition as it applies to your pet.

Dogs need amino acids, eleven types of vitamins, and fatty acids for proper nutrition. These nutrients must be received in the right proportions also. It can take a very long time to read the ingredients on every product label that you come across.

You may wish to avoid a lot of nutrition label research and confusion, All you need to remember is minimum requirement statements. If a particular product provides the minimum nutrients for your pet, there should be a statement from the AAFCO on the label. AAFCO stands for the Association of American Feed Controls Officials. They are the official organization that provides standards for pet as well as animal feeds in the United States.

If a product meets AAFCO standards for canine nutrition it will fall into one of two categories. The first category is adult maintenance. This means that you can feed this product to your dog and the food will keep it alive and well. You should not have to supplement the diet with any other kinds of foods.

Another category for AAFCO nutrition standards is growth and reproduction. This covers puppies and means that the product has everything that growing and developing puppies need to live. It also covers pregnant females and those that are still nursing their young.

When you find a label statement that claims the product meets the AAFCO standards of nutrition, you know that this claim has been substantiated one of two ways. The product must be rigorously examined within the laboratory. However, they may be certified by laboratory analysis and testing or trials with actual feeding of animals. If you find a product is only for supplemental feeding, then it does not meet the minimum requirements for canine nutrition.

It is important to read labels of all foods that you consider for your dog. If the product does not meet the standards of the AAFCO, you should not feed it to your pet on a daily basis. Look for products that have been tested in the lab and in feeding trials, for the most reliability. If you see a product that is good for all life stages, it could be the best dog food for puppies and adults, as well as pregnant females.

Many, many dogs and some cats have food allergies which lead to prolonged and irritating skin conditions.  Pinkish or reddish skin, hair loss, flaky & itchy skin are all potential signs of food allergies.  Some pets will even bite at their own feet or skin due to food allergies.

Food allergies are often caused by :

• Preservatives and flavourings - more prevalent the cheaper the food
• Grains – wheat & sorghum are possibly the worst allergens. Some dogs may also be sensitive to corn.
• Certain meat proteins – many dogs and some cats are allergic to Beef or Chicken but may be sensitive to other meat proteins also.

Pet food is no different to our food in the sense that you get what you pay for. Whilst the cheaper brands may have a similar basic nutritional analysis, the quality of the ingredients is lower.  Cheaper brands are likely to have ‘fillers', such as corn and wheat, as their main ingredient. Cheaper brands are also more likely to contain colourings, preservatives, additives, and higher levels of sodium - none of which are good for the long term health of your furry children.

You'll also find that the cheaper brands won't have the additional added ingredients essential for optimum growth, skin conditioning, stomach sensitivities, oral care or general well being.  If it's the price you'll pay for a bag of the better brands that makes you glance away, remember that the premium foods are nutrient dense and you will be feeding your dog or cat less per serving than the cheaper brands.  As an example, you'll feed your 20kg medium sized dog just 2 cups of Eagle Pack Holistic Chicken Formula a day (even less if you also feed bones & raw meats) whereas for a cheaper brand such as Supercoat, you will be feeding 3 - 4 cups a day.

You'll also be providing them with much better nutrition which will save you money over the long term in other ways, including less unplanned visits to the vet.  

Our suggested changes to food:

• Avoid cheaper supermarket foods.  If you are feeding supermarket type foods – change to a quality, premium food where meat, rather than wheat or corn, is the first ingredient, and all the essential nutrients are included.  Some premium brands also have sensitive skin varieties for dogs & cats with more severe allergic reactions
• Switch to the BARF or Biologically Appropriate Raw Food Diet. This diet is highly recommended. BARF comes in the form of frozen patties and is a complete diet. It comes in Lamb, Pork, Chicken, Kangaroo, Beef and Combination varieties for dogs and in Turkey and Kangaroo varieties for cats. We have seen many, many successes with this food and they love it !
• Add supplements for a balanced diet.  If you are making up your dog or cats diet using your own ingredients to battle the allergy, consider that your pet may need either additional nutrients such as omega oils and may need more or less protein, calcium and other essential nutrients.
• Try Canidae or Felidae Grain Free Food – Dry Dog or Cat food with Chicken or Fish/. Contains Potato instead of grains,rice, wheat or corn. Also gets the majority of it’s nutrients from vegetables or fruit instead of chemicals. Canidae is very successful in treating food allergies.
• Remove foods with Colourings & Preservatives.  Cut out any treats which contain colourings and preservatives and be careful what you feed them from your table.  There's a great range of natural, preservative, colouring & additive free treats available so opt for one of these options instead.

Have your natural, healthy dog & cat food delivered to your door - from just $1.

** For any order over $25 & under 3kg, our standard delivery cost is just $1 per order to anywhere in Australia whether it's one or ten items that you purchase.  Yep, you read that right - just $1 per order.  Click here for our shipping terms and conditions.  

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

As the temperature outside drops, we shut the windows, turn on the heater and maybe light a fire in the fireplace.  While your dog or cat might be nice and content to curl up with you in front of the heater, your bird is most likely to feel a little snuffly and sneezy. 

Birds have extremely delicate respiratory systems.  Drier air from heating the house can dry out the skin and the breathing passages of our pet birds.  Add fumes from heaters or fireplaces and you’re potentially looking at a wheezy bird over winter. 

Here are some tips for keeping your bird safe and warm over winter:

• Consider turning down the heat, and making sure your bird's cage is far away from heater vents
• If using a fireplace, move your bird to a different room 
• Clean out heater vents and air filters as this will help to reduce your birds exposure to airborne dust 
• Try to keep the humidity up near your bird and provide them with the opportunity to bathe frequently.  Lots and lots of showers will help keep the mucous membranes in their sinuses from getting dry and irritated
• Whenever possible, open a window or move the cage outside in the milder winter sun during the day.  You will still need to be mindful of protection from cold winds (and other ‘wild’ birds)
• Check for drafts and leaks inside -  Birds can handle lower temperatures but a cold draft can make your bird ill
• For caged birds outside, cages should be moved to sheltered areas, out of wind, drafts, and rain.  Birds kept in aviaries outside must have protection from the rain, wind and frost
• Whilst ensuring your pet has adequate shelter is essential, don’t forget that sometimes a little extra warmth is also called for.  Birds can find warmth from adding a bird buddy or a happy hut to the cage
• Vitamin & Mineral supplements will help to keep your bird healthy – especially important for birds whose diet is primarily seed based
• Any why not indulge your bird with some fun new wood toys to chew up, a treat bell or replace their wooden perches

And don't forget a nice cosy snuggle for all your pets.

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

Have you noticed a change in temperature yet?  Is the season changing?  Has your feline family member started claiming the warmest spot in the house?

While we can pull on a jumper or turn on the heater to keep ourselves warm, our pets rely on us to keep them safe and warm.  If we’re starting to notice a change in temperature then so are our pets.

Cats will quite often seek out the warmest places in the house & you can also spoil them with a cosy cuddler or cat bed.    Heated beds or heat pads under the bedding can also provide a soft, gentle heat.  

A nice sunny spot to soak up the winter sun will also have you in their good books.  Indoor cats like a window-ledge or chair where they can catch the warmth of the winter sun through the window during the day, while outdoor cats will seek out the sunshine on top of a fence or roof.  Try a window perch for kitty – it’s perfect for basking in the winter sun.    

Installing a cat door is also a great idea and provides your pets with the choice to come inside when the weather is at its worst and they feel they need to.

A lot of cats will shed their summer coats before putting on their winter coat. A little extra attention to their coats and daily or weekly brushing (as needed) should help to keep you both happy.

Cats can suffer from inactivity as well during winter so a cat scratching and climbing post, cat tunnel or interactive cat toys can keep kitty amused and active. 

Your cat may put on weight and coat thickness during the winter months.  Some of the finer coated cat breeds may actually require a little extra food to maintain their weight.  If they’re an outdoors cat, you may also need to slightly increase their servings to allow for the extra energy they will burn to keep warm.  It’s good practice for any time of year to be aware of changes in weight of any of your pets and to adjust your portions accordingly.  Watching the treats is always good advice ! 

It can be easy during winter to make the mistake of thinking that pets need less to drink. Clean fresh water should be available & having more than one source of water for your pet is a must.  A waterer is a great way to ensure a steady supply is available at all times.   Cats especially like to drink from running water so drinking fountains may be a better option.

And don’t forget lots of warm cuddles, pats, strokes & some time inside with you for all your pets during winter! 

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

As Autumn comes and we start to feel the onset of winter we need to think about starting to make some small changes to keep our pets happy & healthy.  In the same way that we start looking for warmer clothing or dragging the heater out of storage, our pets are also sensitive to drops in temperatures.

Whilst our location in south eastern QLD means that we do not have the extreme temperature changes of the cooler southern climates, there are still a few simple adjustments we can do to ensure the winter period passes without too much discomfort for our families.

Here’s our top 5 winter pet-siderations for your pets:

• Shelter
• Warmth
• Feeding
• Exercise
• Water

Shelter

Number one on our list is shelter – and all pets require adequate protection from rain, wind & the cold in general. 

For dogs who live outside, a kennel is a suitable shelter and ideally would be slightly elevated to prevent moisture accumulation.   Dogs that sleep inside the house (but not in the bed with you !) will still notice a cooler change and will benefit from a sheltered spot in the house & a nice warm bed or cushion. 

Cats will quite often seek out the warmest places in the house & can’t go past a cosy cuddler or cat bed.    Installing a cat door is also a great idea and provides your pets with the choice to come inside when they feel they need to.

Our feathered friends also need some extra consideration over winter.  Putting the cage outside in the milder winter sun during the day may be welcomed although it needs to be protected from cold winds (and other ‘wild’ birds).  Remember when bringing cages inside not to place them too close to heaters in the house.

There are houses and cubbies for guinea pigs & small critters as well so the whole family is sheltered for winter. Cages & hutches should be moved to sheltered areas, out of wind, drafts, and rain.

Warmth

Whilst ensuring your pet has adequate shelter is essential, don’t forget that sometimes a little extra warmth is also called for.  Young puppies & kittens are susceptible to the cold as are older dogs and cats with more sluggish circulatory systems that make it a little harder to stay warm.  Remember too that if your dog is an arthritis sufferer that this will be made worse by the cold.

Dogs with lower percentages of body fat or dogs with single coats/short hair may benefit from a coat or jacket.  And adding an extra blanket or rug to a kennel would not be unwelcome.   Heat pads under the bedding can also provide a soft, gentle heat.  Some inside dogs may actually become uncomfortable if the house is too over-heated for them – so also make sure that they have access to a cooler area.

Try a window perch for kitty – it’s perfect for basking in the winter sun.   Birds can find warmth from adding a bird buddy or a happy hut to the cage.  Guinea Pigs and other small animals will also benefit from plenty of extra bedding material to snuggle into. 

For your reptile friends, check that heat pads and heat lamps are still working effectively.  BE sure to use a thoermostat to check the temparature in different places of your enclosure.

And don’t forget the fish family members either. Most common tropical fish prefer a temperature range between 24 – 28 degrees so a heater is a must.  For bettas (siamese fighters) in smaller bowls a small heater or heat mat will do.  Buying a new thermometer for winter is a good idea to make sure your heater is still working correctly.

Feeding

It can be a bit of a balancing act over winter to maintain your pets weight.  Some of the finer coated dog & cat breeds may actually require a little extra food to maintain their weight. Others may have slightly less activity during winter and will therefore require less food to prevent them from gaining weight. 

Outside dogs or working dogs may also need additional food during winter to meet the ‘warming’ demands of their bodies.

It’s good practice for any time of year to be aware of changes in weight of any of your pets and to adjust your portions accordingly.  Watching the treats is always good advice !

Exercise

Winter months generally mean less daylight and more darkness – possibly limiting the time we may have to get out and about and exercise with our pets. 

When you can’t get out as much as you like, think about what you can do at home to keep your pets active and entertained.  Filling a treat ball with some liver jerky or a Kong with a smidgeon of Vegemite can keep your dog busy.  There's a myraid of food and treat dispenser toys available, puzzle toys and other toys to keep your pooch stimulated and active.  There are also many interactive toys available for you and them to keep you both active!

Cats can suffer from inactivity as well during winter so a cat scratching and climbing post, cat tunnel or interactive cat toys can keep kitty amused and active. 

For extra safety during the winter whilst walking your dogs, night blinkers and reflective collars, leads & harnesses are available to help you both out.

Water

It can be easy during winter to make the mistake of thinking that pets need less to drink. Clean fresh water should be available & having more than one source of water for your pet is a must.  A waterer is a great way to ensure a steady supply is available at all times.

And don’t forget lots of warm cuddles, pats, strokes & some time inside with you for all your pets during winter! 

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

Practical Uses

Drop is useful in a number of situations:

• it is more comfortable for your dog to stay in a 'drop' position for longer periods of time
• it is more difficult for a dog to get up out of the 'drop' than a 'sit'
• teaching 'drop' helps elevate your position as a leader
• teach your dog to drop as a substitute for problem behaviour such as jumping up, door-dashing or leaping out of cars (ie. your dog cannot 'drop' and jump simultaneously)

Method

1. Hold a treat (or toy) in your fingers and put the treat near your dog's nose.
2. SLOWLY move the treat down toward the ground and out along the ground away from the dog in an 'L' shape
3. Your dog should follow the treat and his body should drop to the ground.
4. As his belly hits the floor, mark (say 'Yes!') immediately and reward.
5. Allow your dog to move around and repeat steps 1 to 4 until he offers a drop in response to your hand movement. (DO NOT use a verbal command to drop until you have the behaviours happening CONSISTENTLY in response to your hand signal).
6. Try using a hand signal (palm facing down, slowly move your hand from your waist in a downward movement) WITHOUT a food treat.  Use a treat as a reward rather than a lure.
7. When your dog responds 8 times out of 10 tries to a hand signal alone THEN you are ready to start naming the 'Drop'. Say 'drop' immediately before you give the dog a hand signal to drop.  Mark and reward.

Troubleshooting

1.  Your dog keeps getting up to get the treat

You may be holding the treat too high.  Think of the treat as a magnet to your dogs nose.

Sometimes the above method is not enough to lure a drop into a drop.  Try one of the following methods instead:

a) SLOWLY move the treat down toward the ground and IN TOWARDS THE DOG in a reverse 'L' shape.  This should topple your dog off balance and he should drop.

b) Sit on the floor with your legs out in front of you and lure your dog under your bent knees with a treat

c) Lure your dog underneath the rungs of a sturdy chair

d) Feed him at the ground several times in a row.  Many dogs will automatically drop after being fed at ground level.

2.  Your dog gets over excited by the food and tries to dislodge from your habnd with his paw or teeth.

Hold the food close to your chest and turn your head away (withdraw attention) until he settles down.  Repeat until he settles.  You may also want to try a more boring treat!

3.  Your dog is distracted and not interested

Try using a toy instead.  Try training in a more boring enviroment where there is nothing else for the dog to focus on (eg. bathroom, laundry, etc.).  Try this exercise before dinner when your dog is hungry.

 

** Article sourced with the permission of Danielle and Urban Dog Training - www.urbandogtraining.com.au.

 

When you are out shopping pet foods consider the age of your pet. Maybe you have a new puppy. This is the time to look into products made for puppies. Normal pet foods may not provide the proper nutrition for your puppy. You might consider making your own puppy food, and this will provide your puppy with pure and wholesome ingredients. However, most people buy commercial products for the convenience.

If you buy a commercial puppy product it may provide all the nutrients that puppies need. However, do not assume this is true because the word "puppy" is included. If you are not sure about a product ask your veterinarian or local pet store about it. You will receive an honest reply and a recommendation for the best kinds of foods. Many vets and reputable pet shops sell high quality pet foods .

If you buy your pet foods from your local vet, it may cost a bit more. Yet, you will be assured a premium brand of the highest quality and purity. If you wish to save money on the same products, you may find them online or at your local pet store for considerably less. 

Households with several dogs may be tempted to buy large bags of pet foods to save money. This is a good strategy if all your dogs have the same nutritional needs. If not, you could be feeding young dogs a diet that is insufficient in many nutrients. Puppies must have twice the calories of adult dogs and they need considerably more fat, protein, calcium, and phosphorus.

Maybe your dog is getting on in years and needs to have improved nutrition. Your vet or pet store can recommend the best foods for senior dogs. There are many good products that are made for the older dog. Also, you may wish to change to a softer diet as some dogs develop teeth problems as they age. This can make chewing and digestion more difficult with dry foods.

Maybe you are uncertain how to choose dog food properly. Check out several high quality products. Talk to a veterinarian or pet care professional about canine nutrition. Make sure to take age and health conditions into consideration when selecting pet foods.

Get more information and details about how to choose the dog food that will meet your pet's nutritional and activity requirements today! Learn about the advantages of using a quality Royal Canin dog food today!

Veterinarians are warning dog and puppy owners to make sure their pets are up to date with their vaccinations as a new wave of parvovirus circulates in some areas of Queensland and New South Wales. 

Dr Tess Guilfoyle, incoming president of the Queensland Division of the Australian Veterinary Association said there had been a significant increase in dogs and puppies with canine parvovirus being presented to veterinary practices. 

“Young puppies and dogs that have never been vaccinated are particularly susceptible to the effects of this virus. Even some adult dogs may need a booster if the virus has not challenged their immune system in recent years.” 

There have been 167 cases of canine parvovirus recorded on Disease Watchdog, Australia’s national companion animal disease surveillance system. Close to 100 cases have been reported in Queensland and NSW alone in the last six weeks. 

“This disease has been generally thought to be a seasonal spring and summer disease, however in recent years cases have been recorded well into autumn and it appears the trend is continuing this year,” Dr Guilfoyle said. 

Areas where there appears to be a higher disease risk at present include Mackay, Cairns, Rockhampton and Capalaba in Queensland and Walgett, Campbelltown, Broken Hill, Newcastle, Griffith and Narrabri in New South Wales. 

Dr Guilfoyle said that the virus can be especially severe in puppies with death in around 80 per cent of untreated cases. 

“Common signs of canine parvovirus are severe vomiting and bloody diarrhoea. If your pet has any of these symptoms you should see your local vet straight away,” she said. 

For further information about the most suitable vaccination program for your dog contact your local veterinarian. 

Information about parvovirus outbreaks came from the Disease Watchdog, an onlinedatabase of companion animal diseases hosted by Virbac Animal Health. More information can be found at: www.diseasewatchdog.org. 

We’ve all been there, sitting at the dinner table, looking into those pleading eyes that say “please, may I have some too?”  Whether you choose to feed your dog from your table is your choice but you should be aware of the human foods that may be harmful to your dog and should be avoided.  Even if you don’t feed your dog anything but commercially made dog food, being aware means that you can be sure that these foods are never left within doggie reach where they may be tempted to help themselves.

Whilst it is true that some foods need to be ingested in larger quantities to have a detrimental effect, they should still be avoided, even if they have been eaten in the past with no obvious ill effect. 

• Avocados (fruit, pit, and plant) are toxic to dogs. Avocados contain a toxic component which can damage heart, lung and other tissue in many animals. They are high in fat and can trigger stomach upset, vomiting and even pancreatitis. 
• Broccoli in small amounts is not harmful but in large quantities can cause gastrointestinal irritation.
• Caffeine (from coffee, coffee grounds, tea, or tea bags) stimulates the central nervous and cardiac systems, and can cause vomiting, restlessness, heart palpitations, and even death within hours.
• Chocolate & cocoa powder can cause seizures, coma and death. The darker the chocolate, the more dangerous it is. But any chocolate, in large enough amounts (and ½ a 250gm block of cooking chocolate is enough) can kill a dog. The smaller the dog, the higher the risk. 
• Fruit pips - Apple seeds, cherry pits, peach pits, pear pips, plums pits, and apricot pits contain cyanide, which is poisonous. While a few apple seeds may not cause a problem, the effects can accumulate over time if they are given to dogs regularly. Chewing on a peach pit, cherry pit, apricot pit, or plum pit can allow ingestion of cyanide & result in the pit being swallowed, causing continuous exposure to cyanide, or could cause the dog to choke.
• Grapes and raisins can cause kidney failure in dogs.  As little as a single serving of raisins can be fatal. Even if your dog doesn't eat enough at one time to be fatal, they can be severely damaged by eating just a few grapes or raisins regularly. 
• Macadamia nuts can cause weakness, muscle tremor and paralysis. These symptoms are usually temporary.
• Walnuts. When dogs eat the seed hulls, they can get an upset stomach and diarrhea. The real problem is the fungus or mold that attacks walnuts after they get wet (from rain or sprinklers), which produces toxins. If the fungus or mold is ingested your dog can become very ill. Dogs can take several days to exhibit serious signs of illness.
• Nutmeg can cause tremors, seizures and death.
• Onions & Garlic destroy red blood cells and can cause anemia, weakness, and breathing difficulty. Even small amounts can cause cumulative damage over time. This includes onions or chives - raw, powdered, dehydrated, or cooked.  Large amounts of garlic cause the same problems as onions. Garlic contains only a small amount of the problematic substance that is in onions.
• Potato peelings and green potatoes contain Oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.
• Tomatoes (plant and green fruit) can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems.

As always, if you’re ever in doubt about the health of your pet, consult your veterinarian.

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

So what can you do to help care for your ageing dog or ageing cat....

Obviously there are other serious medical issues that can occur as our pets grow older.  Weight, dental care and joint care are three that as pet owners we can help to prevent and alleviate easily at home for our aging dogs and aging cats. 

So when is my dog or cat considered “old”?

Cats are seen to “Mature” or “Senior” from approx 8 years plus. Small and medium dogs are “Mature” from 7 years plus and Large to Giant Dogs anywhere from 5 years and up. 

So how can I help my older dog or cat?

Before even going into specifics the first thing to look at is diet. If you are feeding a quality, premium, dog or cat food you are half way there. If you have been feeding this quality diet from puppy and kitten age you are probably more than halfway there.  

Premium dry food diets are scientifically tested to provide the necessary nutrition for your pet.  Tested and measured raw food diets with all of the correct proportions and mix of ingredients are also shown to improve your pets overall health. 

# 1 - Weight Issues

Ok, so let’s look at issues with overweight dogs and overweight cats. If your Cat or Dog is overweight they are statistically likely to live a shorter, less healthy life.   As your pet ages their metabolism is likely to slow down. If they also have some joint pain or stiffness they are likely to exercise less also.

Many people are in denial about their pets weight. Alternatively many people do not realize their pet is overweight. As a society we are so used to seeing overweight pets we start to think of it as the norm.  If you cannot see a defined waist from above your pet and from the side of you pet and you cannot easily feel their ribs, they are most likely overweight! 

So how can you help your pet lose weight ? 

Easy :  Feed less, exercise more, change to a low calorie diet and stop feeding fatty, sugary treats!

There are many healthy, tasty treat options and the premium foods nearly all have a low calorie “diet” version designed to be filling, more slowly absorbed, and have less calories.  If you are feeding a raw food diet, reduce the amount, consider using less fatty bones, and bulk up with green and orange vegetables. 

And don’t forget the exercise.

Click here for dog foods for overweight dogs

Click here for cat foods for overweight cats

# 2 - Dental Care

If a proper dental routine is not in place dental decay can start to happen from puppy and kitten stage.  As your pet ages however this is when it is likely to get even more serious. Cavities form causing pain, gum disease sets in and this can lead to many other health issues such as heart disease. You should  regularly check your pets teeth, and get and annual vet dental  check at the same time you get  your vaccines. But you can also do much at home. 

Dog and Cat Dental care need not be difficult

Many premium dry food are scientifically designed to help clean your pets teeth. Many treats are also scientifically designed to help clean your pets teeth. Any chewing motion, with non-sugary treats or raw bones will also help clean teeth. Many people also do not realize you can buy specific non-foaming, pet flavoured toothpaste for your pets and special brushes. There are even liquids you can add into their drinking water to help prevent plaque. So you just need to think about the food and treats you feed and see if there are any changes you need to make to your daily and weekly pet dental care.

Click here for items to help with Hip and Joint Care

# 3 - Joint Issues

Joint decay, arthiritis and joint stiffness is part of ageing. Active pets that run or jump a lot, many pet breeds such as Labradors and German Shepherds and large cats are also prone to joint damage or disease. If your pet is taking longer to get up, running less or not wanting to play “fetch” as much it is likely they have joint pain. You may also notice they flinch when you touch them in certain places. 

Easy Joint Care

To help prevent and ease joint decay and pain there are a variety of products you can use which have the correct amount of supplements such as Glucosamine and Chondroitin in the correct ratio. These supplements help to repair and buffer the joints.  They come in treat form, powder form and tablet form.  Gentle exercise can also help to prevent the joints from stiffening.

Many Premium Dry Foods also have Joint specific diets and have Glucosamine and Chondriotin added in their Senior Foods.  Obviously if it’s serious you should check with your vet as there are a number of different courses of treatment they can give to help ease your pets pain and improve their quality of life. 

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

Whether it’s a pet urine or pet odour remover that you're looking for – there is help out there !!! 

We’ve found two of the best urine and odour remover products on the market – and they’re not just for use in homes with pets.  Both of these great products have multi-use for ANY household.

If you're looking for the solution to one of these...

• a cleaner that removes dog urine from tile
• eliminate pet urine odor in carpet
• remove smell of cat urine
• get rid pet odours in concrete
• get pet odor out of furniture
• the best urine odour remover

Then read on …

We’ve found two of the best urine and odour remover products on the market – and they’re not just for use in homes with pets.  Both of these great products have multi-use for ANY household.  

	Urine-Off™ - possibly the best URINE STAIN and ODOUR remover on the market.  Works by removing the uric acid crystals that cause the odour and the stains to reappear after conventional cleaning.  Even old, dried urine stains and odours will disappear! Find out more...
	X-Out Odour Eliminator - the safe, non-toxic NATURAL ODOUR eliminator that's safe for pets, people and even the environment.  Great for removing odours from pet beds, furniture, kennels, carpets - just about anywhere! Find out more...

Urine-OffTM

Urine-Off™ is an odour and stain remover spray that uses science to remove urine stains and odours for good.  It works where other detergent based cleaning products don’t – by removing the uric acid crystals that cause the odour and the stains to reappear after conventional cleaning.  Even old, dried urine stains and odours will disappear!

Got a dog or cat that urinates in the same spot over and over no matter how hard you clean?  Out pets have territory-marking behaviour and a very acute sense of smell.  Even when we can’t smell the urine odour – they can – and they are compelled to re-apply their own scent! 

Wondering how to..

• How to clean cat urine
• How to clean dog urine
• How to eliminate urine odor

Removing Cat Urine

Are you having trouble removing old or new cat urine odours from your home? Is your cat spraying where he shouldn’t?  Removing cat urine odour in your home is easy now with Urine-Off™. It does not rely on perfumes, masking agents, or cover-ups – it goes to the source of the problem.

Urine-Off™ odour and stain remover removes the source of urine problems that ordinary household products cannot touch: the non-soluble urine salt crystals. By removing these crystals, not only can you eliminate the odour but the stain as well – even very old stains! Say goodbye to cat urine odour, male cat spraying odour and the stains that go along with them!

Removing Dog Urine

You know how difficult it is to remove dog urine from your carpet, furniture, rugs, and wood floors. Urine-Off™ will remove dog urine from your home for good! The key is the revolutionary bio-enzymatic formula, designed specifically to destroy the urine salt crystals found in pet urine that are the source of persistent pet urine odour. This product does not mask, perfume, or block urine odour – it is a unique dog urine remover!

Urine-Off™ does not contains any harsh chemicals, so nearly any surface that is water-safe is safe for you to use this product (but to be sure, test for colourfastness in an inconspicuous area).  Remove old and new dog urine on carpet, wood floors and more, with Urine-Off™.  You’ll get effective, complete relief from dog odour, prevent future dog marking, and get your nice, clean house back!

Removing Pet Odours for Dog and Cat Urine Odours

A lot of people have problems with pet odour control.  Urine-Off™ gets to the root of the problem to ensure pet odours are removed.  If you have dog or cat urine odours, our urine odour and stain removal product is a must for your household. Urine-Off™ product works with both fresh pet stains and those that have been there for years!

Most other pet odour removers can only work with the water-based substances in pet urine, but it is the insoluble urine crystals that are the source of persistent pet odours and the removal of them is the key to pet odour control.  The revolutionary enzymatic Urine-Off™ solution is formulated specifically to break down the urine crystals that other products don’t touch

General Household Use 

Urine-Off™ has many household uses …

• For Bathrooms 
• For Litter Boxes 
• For Clothing, Bed Linens & Towels 
• For Furniture & Mattresses 
• For Carpet & Upholstery 
• For Hardwood Floors   
• For Concrete Floors 
• For Marble & Non-Glazed Tile 
• For Glazed Tile Porcelain and other hard surfaces 
• For Plywood and OSB Sub-Floors
• Cat Urine Remover 
• Removing Pet Odours 
• Adult Incontinence

Click here to purchase Urine-Off (postage is just $1 to anywhere in Australia).

X-Out Pet Odour Eliminator

Pet Odour Problems are Easily Solved.

X-OUT Pet Odour Eliminator is 100% safe for pets, people and even the environment. Odours don't stand a chance against it! 

X-Out Odour Eliminator is a natural, non-toxic organic plant extract with no added chemicals and one of the safest materials available.  It only takes a few sprays of X-Out to eliminate odours and it continues to work long after it has been applied.

X-Out Odour has been cleared by the E.P.A (Environmental Protection Agency) to be 100% non-toxic to bacteria, humans, plants, animals, fish and other life.

• Wondering how to get pet odour out of furniture? 
• Looking for advice on how to get rid of pet odours?
• Want to know how to remove pet odour from the house?

X-Out is a natural pet odour elimination – the good way to naturally eliminate pet odours

You can use X-Out Odour Eliminator for…

• Pet Beds 
• Dog Mats/Kennels 
• General House Fabric 
• Pillows and Blankets 
• Pet Play Toys 
• Home Furnishings 
• Litters Trays 
• Soiled Carpets 
• Pet Carry Cases 
• Car Seats

Removing Odours from Pet areas, beds, and litters boxes

Dog houses, dog runs, litter boxes, etc. can be a troublesome odour problem. Spraying the area once a week, safely controls odour. Indoor litter boxes are no longer a problem. Your guests won't even know that you have a cat. A fresh smelling dog house, dog bed, etc. helps to keep your animal smelling fresh and clean.

Removing Urine and faeces odour on carpet, furniture, floors, etc.

The odour from animal urine/feces on carpet or upholstered furniture can be a real problem. Even professional cleaning can not always eliminate the odour. A few sprays of X-OUT Odour Eliminator directly on the area, eliminates the ODOUR completely without harming upholstery fabric or carpet fiber.

100 % Safe to the Environment, Pets and People!!!

Click here to purchase X-Out Odour Eliminator (postage is just $1 to anywhere in Australia).

'He's not really a pet you know! He's a little human. I feed him only the best and wouldn't dream of feeding him anything less than that which I eat myself.'

The pooch on the consulting room table was a portly lump of podge. He hobbled into the surgery, crippled with arthritis and was also panting and puffing with the exertion of transporting his portly frame.  His owner was concerned about why her big boy was limping but the fact was that the dog's lameness was entirely due to the owner's wrongful attitude to the pooch's diet.  He was being fed too much of the wrong types of food. Dogs are not little humans and should not be fed human food.

Humans and pets have totally different nutritional requirements.

For example, humans and guinea pigs cannot synthesise their own vitamin C whereas dogs and cats can. Cats need taurine in their diets whereas humans and dogs don't and dogs have a high requirement for thiamine. Dogs are much more sensitive to some common foodstuffs, such as onions and macadamia nuts, than humans and chocolate in large quantities can cause problems for pets

Let's look at some common food fads.

Do Pets Need Milk?

Pets older than three months of age do not need milk and further, many pets are intolerant of the lactose in cow's milk. Lactose intolerance is more common in pets, especially in cats, than in humans

If a pet has lactose intolerance, when given normal milk, the pet will get an upset stomach where diarrhoea and sometimes vomiting occurs.

While adult pets don't need milk they do enjoy it so if you are still tempted, purchase lactose-free pet milk that is available in supermarkets, pet shops and veterinary surgeries.

Is fat dangerous for pets?

Excessive fat is dangerous for pets, just like it is for humans. Fat fed over a period of time causes obesity and the related diseases of arthritis and diabetes.

However, even one fatty meal can cause pancreatitis in dogs and, less commonly, in cats.

Pancreatitis can be a nasty disease. Whereas alcohol is a common cause of pancreatitis in humans, fatty foods are the equivalent cause in pets. Leftovers from the barbeque, the fatty tails from chops and steaks, the marrow of bones and the fat from the Christmas leg ham are common causes of pancreatitis.

Dogs with pancreatitis can become very sick. Affected pets have no interest in food and will vomit. They are lethargic and dull and are often dehydrated. They usually show pain when touched in the front area of their abdomen, just near the end of the rib cage.

Is raw fish a good diet for cats and dogs?

Raw fish, particularly tuna and salmon, contains large amounts of an enzyme called thiaminase. This enzyme breaks down thiamine in the food and, where raw fish is fed for a long time, cats and dogs can become quite unwell and develop seizures, stupor and coma. Death is possible.

Thiamine is also known as vitamin B1 and it is an essential part of the diet of dogs and cats as they cannot synthesise their own.

This condition is easy to prevent by providing your pet with a complete and balanced diet. Fish as a sole or primary food source is not adequate. Also be aware that some cheaper, meat-based, pet foods may contain sulphur preservatives that will also remove any thiamine that is in the diet being fed.

Can cats and dogs be fed large quantities of liver?

In moderation, cooked liver will cause no problem. However liver is very high in vitamin A and if liver is fed excessively for more than two years, cats in particular will develop a condition called Hypervitaminosis A.

Cats are particularly at risk as they often love liver and owners therefore feed it to excess.

Hypervitaminosis A causes changes where bones will fuse together. This is common in the spinal column where vertebrae fuse, resulting in a cat that is very stiff and which cannot walk properly.

Is a vegetarian diet suitable for cats and dogs?

Cats can not be fed a vegetarian diet. They cannot synthesise their own taurine and taurine is only found in meat. Affected cats suffer from blindness, heart disease and deficiency of the immune system.

Dogs can be fed a vegetarian diet with caution but, like humans, a vegetarian diet must include soy and other protein sources to be a balanced diet.

Is an all-meat diet suitable for dogs?

An all-meat diet is dangerous. Meat is very low in calcium and very high in phosphorous. The correct ratio between calcium and phosphorous is essential for proper bone formation and growth and when fed an all-meat diet, the pet's bones are poorly ossified and rickets and similar conditions result. .

Calcium deficiencies were common years ago when meat was a popular sole diet for pets but with the advent of commercially available, balanced diets, calcium deficiencies are rare.

While we love our pets, our love is misguided if we feed them like four-legged furry humans. Feeding our pets a balanced diet is easy and will prevent the problems listed above.

Click here for more information from Pets Unleashed on 'Harmful foods for your dog'

Natural distribution: Antaresia Stimsoni Stimsoni is found from the west coast of Western Australia eastwards to about the middle of Western Australia.  The sub-species Antaresia stimsoni orientalis,  is found from mid Western Australia eastwards through southern Northern Territory and northern South Australia to the western slopes of the Great Dividing Range in Queensland and New South Wales.  

Adult size (including tail): Approximately 1.0 metre

Temperature in captivity: Day time air temperature 28-30.5°C,  night time should not be lower than 22°C.The python will regulate its body temperature by moving in and out of the temperature zones in the vivarium,  these temperatures are maintained by using a Reptile One Ceramic Heat Lamp Reflector and a Reptile One Daylight Basking Lamp or Reptile One Fan Heater positioned over ornaments or substrate.  The soft air movement created by the Reptile One Fan Heater circulates the air in the vivarium more efficiently.  The wattage size of the heat lamps are determined by the size of the vivarium and internal décor.  Night time temperatures can be maintained by a Reptile One Ceramic Heat Lamp Reflector and a Reptile One Night Heat Lamp.Pythons benefit from belly warming,  to assist in the digestion of food and general well being.  Reptile One Heat Mats offer a range of sizes,  and the heat mat should not be greater than 25% of the floor area of the vivarium.  Reptile One Heat Mats are left on day and night,  it is important not to position the heat mat under basking lights;  the best positions are under logs or ornamental rocks.

Lighting: Reptile One Reflector with a Reptile One Moon Tube is recommended as most Pythons are nocturnal.  If you require day time lighting a Reptile One UVB2.0 Tube is recommended.

Enclosure: Reptile One have a range of enclosures from 30cm for hatchlings to 120cm for adults in glass or timber finishes.  The aesthetic properties of the Reptile One Red Desert Sand would be a suitable substrate for the arid dwelling pythons;  the sand allows you to clean up waste easily and should be renewed regularly.It is best to house snakes individually unless they are intended to be bred.

Ornaments: A choice of Reptile One decorative rocks and tree branches will give you the ability to provide a near natural décor,  especially if the reptile friendly artificial plants are used to provide shade and hide spots for the Pythons.

Backgrounds: The wide range of Reptile One artificial rock backgrounds allows you to choose a natural feature with or without crevices for your vivarium.

Diet & Feeding: Juvenile Pythons are best fed a pinkie mouse once a week,  increase the size of their meal as the snake grows not the frequency,  an adult python will take an adult mouse once a week.Frozen mice/pinkies should be warmed to the normal body temperature of a mouse,  38°C,  as this will assist in the python identifying it as food.  Place the mouse in the vivarium with Reptile One Feeding Tongs so the snake does not mistake your hand as food.  In some instances the food item may have to be wiggled so that the snake thinks it is still alive.  Recording information about your Python is highly encouraged,  such as the snakes weight,  when they have shed their skin,  when and what they have eaten.  This is useful information that can be presented to a veterinarian if problems arise or if you are presenting the python for a general check up.

Handling: Most young pythons will be defensive to all movements until they are confident they are in no danger.  Use a Reptile One Snake Hook to lift the young python up onto your hand,  if you are unsure,  ask for a demonstration on the best handling technique before you purchase the python.  

IT IS IMPORTANT TO WASH YOUR HANDS BEFORE AND AFTER HANDLING PYTHONS.

Seek advice from a specialist reptile veterinarian for all health issues.

It is illegal to remove native pythons from the wild in Australia without the appropriate Government permits,  please check your states regulations on the appropriate permits to enable you to keep captive bred pythons.  Please do not release any captive pythons into the wild as this will disrupt the natural order of our environment.

This article was provided courtesy of Reptile One.  Aqua One, Avi One, Pet One, Pond One and Reptile One are trade marks and the property of Kong's (Aust.) Pty Ltd.

Natural distribution: This species occurs from the tip of Cape York in northern Queensland,  down the coast on the east side of the Great Dividing Range to the northern-most part of New South Wales.

Adult size: Approximately 1 - 1.5m

Temperature in captivity:  Day time air temperature 28 -30°C and night time temperature not less than 22°C.  The python will regulate its’  body temperature by moving in and out of the temperature zones in the vivarium,  these temperatures are maintained by using a Reptile One Ceramic Heat Lamp Reflector and a Reptile One Daylight Basking Lamp or Reptile One Fan Heater positioned over ornaments or substrate.  The soft air movement created by the Reptile One Fan Heater circulates the air in the vivarium more efficiently,  the wattage size of the heat lamps are determined by the size of the vivarium and internal décor.  Night time temperatures can be maintained by a Reptile One Ceramic Heat Lamp Reflector and a Reptile One Night Heat Lamp.Pythons benefit from belly warming,  to assist in the digestion of food and general well being.  Reptile One Heat Mats offer a range of sizes,  and the heat mat should not be greater than 25% of the floor area of the vivarium.  Reptile One Heat Mats are left on day and night,  it is important not to position the heat mat under basking lights;  the best positions are under logs or ornamental rocks.

Lighting: Reptile One Reflector with a Reptile One Moon Tube is recommended as most Pythons are nocturnal.  If you require day time lighting a Reptile One UVB2.0 Tube is recommended.Enclosure: Reptile One have a range of enclosures from 30cm for hatchlings to 120cm for adults in glass or timber finishes.  The aesthetic properties of the Reptile One Reptabed would be a suitable substrate for these temperate dwelling Pythons;  the bedding allows you to clean up waste easily and should be renewed regularly.  It is best to house snakes individually unless they are in a breeding program.

Ornaments: A choice of Reptile One decorative rocks and tree branches will give you the ability to provide a near natural décor,  especially if the reptile friendly artificial plants are used to provide shade and hide spots for the Pythons.

Backgrounds: The wide range of Reptile One artificial rock backgrounds allows you to choose a natural feature with or without crevices for your vivarium.

Diet & Feeding: Juvenile Pythons are best fed a pinkie mouse once a week,  increase the size of their meal as the snake grows not the frequency,  an adult python will take an adult mouse once a week.Frozen mice/pinkies should be warmed to the normal body temperature of a mouse,  38°C,  as this will assist in the python identifying it as food.  Place the mouse in the vivarium with Reptile One Feeding Tongs so the snake does not mistake your hand as food.  In some instances the food item may have to be wiggled so that the snake thinks it is still alive.  Recording information about your python is highly encouraged,  such as snakes weight,  when they have shed their skin,  when and what they have eaten.  This is useful information that can be presented to a veterinarian if problems arise or if you are presenting the Python for a general check up.

Handling: Most young pythons will be defensive to all movements until they are confident they are in no danger.  Use a Reptile One Snake Hook to lift the young python up onto your hand.  If you are unsure,  ask for a demonstration on the best handling technique before you purchase the python.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO WASH YOUR HANDS BEFORE AND AFTER HANDLING PYTHONS.

Seek advice from a specialist reptile veterinarian for all health issues.

It is illegal to remove native pythons from the wild in Australia without the appropriate Government permits,  please check your states regulations on the appropriate permits to enable you to keep captive bred pythons.  Please do not release any captive pythons into the wild as this will disrupt the natural order of our environment.

This article was provided courtesy of Reptile One.  Aqua One, Avi One, Pet One, Pond One and Reptile One are trade marks and the property of Kong's (Aust.) Pty Ltd.

Natural distribution: Occurs throughout the length of the Murray-Darling River system,  including its tributaries,  from Adelaide in South Australia,  throughout northern Victoria into New South Wales and southern Queensland.    

Adult size: (shell size): 270mm-300mm

Temperature in captivity:  Water temperature 22-26°C .Water temperature can be maintained with a Reptile One Glass Terrarium Heater which includes a glass heater protector to ensure your safety as well as for the turtle. Air temperature in the enclosure ranging from 24°-28°C.Lighting: Reptile One Fluorescent Reflector with a Reptile One UVB5.0 Tube positioned over the platform,  will provide useful UV to enhance dietary calcium absorption and vitamin D3 production essential to growing turtles.

Enclosure: Reptile One have a selection of enclosures that have non-abrasive turtle platforms securely attached.  The platforms provide a basking and drying area for the turtle.  Using a Reptile One enclosure offers you options for filtration:   A Reptile One Turtle Pro enclosure have a hang-on filter,  turtle safe platform and background along with a secure wire lid as a package.  Other Reptile One turtle enclosures have a turtle safe platform;  these enclosures allow you to use the Reptile One Terrarium Canister Filter to help maintain optimum water quality.  (Read and follow filter maintenance instructions to optimise the efficiency and maintain the warranty.) Substrates in the turtle enclosures can be washed Aquarium gravel.  The gravel should be at a depth to cover the pre filter plate of the Reptile One Terrarium Canister Filter by approximately 30mm.  To help maintain optimum water quality use the Reptile One Terrarium Gravel Cleaner.  Remove 25%-30% of the terrarium water weekly.  Be sure to siphon the gravel over the entire bottom of the terrarium.  Replenish the terrarium water by adding Reptile One Water Conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramine from tap water and regularly check pH using a Reptile One pH Test Kit to maintain the recommended pH of 7.0.

Diet & Feeding: In general Macquarie River Turtles are opportunistic omnivorous feeders with plant material making up about 50% of their diets in adults,  while juveniles are mostly carnivorous.  Recommended diets should consist of:  Reptile One Turtle Dinner (a balanced frozen meat,  vegetable and vitamin food) and Reptile One Turtle Sticks.  For adult turtles provide fresh aquatic plants or diced green leafed vegetables (coloured lettuce,  Bok choi or spinach).  These foods can be supplemented with live or frozen blood worms or earth worms to provide a varied diet for the turtle.  Macquarie River Turtles will often swim frantically towards you when you enter the room,  this can be interpreted as being hungry.Only feed young turtle’s daily amounts of food the size of their heads,  remove uneaten food after 20 minutes.  Adult turtles can be fed two to three times a week with amounts of food the size of their heads.  Over feeding usually results in obesity and other diet related disorders.

Handling: It is recommended before purchasing your turtle to have a demonstration on the best way to hold juvenile and adult turtles.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO WASH YOUR HANDS BEFORE AND AFTER HANDLING TURTLES.

Seek advice from a specialist reptile veterinarian for all health issues.

It is illegal to remove native turtles from the wild in Australia without the appropriate Government permits,  please check your states regulations on the appropriate permits to enable you to keep captive bred turtles.  Please do not release any captive turtles into the wild as this will disrupt the natural order of our environment.

This article was provided courtesy of Reptile One.  Aqua One, Avi One, Pet One, Pond One and Reptile One are trade marks and the property of Kong's (Aust.) Pty Ltd.

Natural distribution: Children's pythons occurs westwards from the bottom of the Gulf of Carpentaria in Queensland,  through the  “Top-End”  of the Northern Territory to the coastal areas of the Kimberley division in Western Australia.  

Adult size: (including tail): Approximately 1.0 metre

Temperature in captivity:  Day time air temperature 28-30.5°C,  night time should not be lower than 22°C.The python will regulate its body temperature by moving in and out of the temperature zones in the vivarium,  these temperatures are maintained by using a Reptile One Ceramic Heat Lamp Reflector and a Reptile One Daylight Basking Lamp or Reptile One Fan Heater positioned over ornaments or substrate.  The soft air movement created by the Reptile One Fan Heater circulates the air in the vivarium more efficiently.  The wattage size of the heat lamps are determined by the size of the vivarium and internal décor.  Night time temperatures can be maintained by a Reptile One Ceramic Heat Lamp Reflector and a Reptile One Night Heat Lamp.Pythons benefit from belly warming,  to assist in the digestion of food and general well being.  Reptile One Heat Mats offer a range of sizes,  and the heat mat should not be greater than 25% of the floor area of the vivarium.  Reptile One Heat Mats are left on day and night,  it is important not to position the heat mat under basking lights;  the best positions are under logs or ornamental rocks.

Lighting: Reptile One Reflector with a Reptile One Moon Tube is recommended as most Pythons are nocturna.  If you require day time lighting a Reptile One UVB2.0 Tube is recommended.

Enclosure: Reptile One have a range of enclosures from 30cm for hatchlings to 120cm for adults in glass or timber finishes.  The aesthetic properties of the Reptile One Red Desert Sand with a section of the vivarium floor covered with Reptile One Reptabed Bark substrate will give a variable moist surface which would be a suitable substrate for  ‘top-end”  dwelling pythons.  This substrate allows you to clean up waste easily and should be renewed regularly.It is best to house snakes individually unless they are intended to be bred.  

Ornaments: A choice of Reptile One decorative rocks and tree branches will give you the ability to provide a near natural décor,  especially if the reptile friendly artificial plants are used to provide shade and hide spots for the pythons.

Backgrounds: The range of Reptile One artificial rock backgrounds allows you to choose a natural feature with or without crevices for your vivarium.

Diet & Feeding:  Juvenile pythons are best fed a pinkie mouse once a week,  increase the size of their meal as the snake grows not the frequency,  an adult python will take an adult mouse once a week.Frozen mice/pinkies should be warmed to the normal body temperature of a mouse,  38°C,  as this will assist in the python identifying it as food.  Place the mouse in the vivarium with Reptile One Feeding Tongs so the snake does not mistake your hand as food.  In some instances the food item may have to be wiggled so that the snake thinks it is still alive.  Recording information about your python is highly encouraged,  such as the snakes weight,  when they have shed their skin,  when and what they have eaten.  This is useful information that can be presented to a veterinarian if problems arise or if you are presenting the python for a general check up.

Handling:  Most young pythons will be defensive to all movement until they are confident they are in no danger.  Use a Reptile One Snake Hook to lift the young python up onto your hand.  If you are unsure,  ask for a demonstration on the best handling technique before you purchase the python.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO WASH YOUR HANDS BEFORE AND AFTER HANDLING PYTHONS.

Seek advice from a specialist reptile veterinarian for all health issues.

It is illegal to remove native pythons from the wild in Australia without the appropriate Government permits,  please check your states regulations on the appropriate permits to enable you to keep captive bred pythons.  Please do not release any captive pythons into the wild as this will disrupt the natural order of our environment.

This article was provided courtesy of Reptile One.  Aqua One, Avi One, Pet One, Pond One and Reptile One are trade marks and the property of Kong's (Aust.) Pty Ltd.

Natural distribution: Found in the temperate to tropical arid to semi-arid woodland,  shrublands and hummock grasslands of the Murray-Darling Basin,  south-eastern Northern Territory to inland west New South Wales and Queensland.   

Adult size: (excluding tail): 250mm

Temperature in captivity:  Day time air temperature between 24 - 30°C,  night time should not be lower than 16°C.The Bearded Dragon should be able to regulate its’  body temperature at around 35°C by moving to and from a basking spot above 35°C at 100 - 150mm above the bottom of the vivarium (usually on a sloping rock or branch ornament).  Reptile One Daylight Basking Lamp or Reptile One Fan Heater positioned over the sloping ornament is ideal.  The soft air movement created by the Reptile One Fan Heater circulates the air in the vivarium more efficiently,  the wattage size of the heat lamps are determined by the size of the vivarium and internal décor.Bearded Dragons are diurnal (day time) reptiles and will require the day lights/ heat lamps to be turned off at night.  To keep your Bearded Dragons warm at night,  place a Reptile One Heat Mat under a Reptile One Cave or Log,  this will allow the Bearded Dragon to settle on the mat while feeling protected by the ornament.  The Reptile One Heat Mat can be left on all the time so do not position directly under the Reptile One Daylight Basking Lamp.  The heat mat should not be greater than 25% of the floor area.

Lighting: Reptile One Fluorescent Reflector with a Reptile One UVB10.0 Tube positioned a minimum 30cm above the basking spot,  will provide useful UV to enhance dietary calcium absorption and vitamin D3 production essential to Bearded Dragons.Enclosure: Reptile One have a range of enclosures and cabinets that are suitable for Bearded Dragons,  minimum suggested size would be 60cm with a choice of glass or timber finishes.The aesthetic properties of the Reptile One Desert Sand will enable you to create a near replica of the natural environment.  In conjunction with the sand;  Reptile One Bedding for Lizards can be used to give different surface texture.  Reptile One have a variety of artificial plants that will provide shade areas in the vivarium enabling the Bearded Dragon a retreat when needed.Ornaments: A choice of Reptile One decorative rocks and tree branches will give you the ability to provide sloping basking sites,  plus they are easy to clean.Backgrounds: The range of Reptile One artificial rock backgrounds allows you to choose a natural look for your vivarium.

Diet & Feeding: Bearded Dragons are basically omnivorous requiring a balance of Insects (crickets,  cockroaches or mealworms) and a mix of green or red vegetables (spinach,  coloured lettuce,  tomato,  peppers or yellow flower petals).  Juvenile Dragons will need to be fed daily the vegetable mix and insects while the adults,  if active fed daily or if not so active,  two to three times per week.  The insect should be dusted with Reptile One Vitacal twice a week,  all uneaten food should be removed in the afternoon daily.  Reptile One have a range of corner or round drinking dishes,  we suggest the use of shallow dishes to allow the Bearded Dragon to stand in the dish without drowning,  care should be taken not to create wet areas from water spillage,  as Bearded Dragons have a low tolerance to humidity.It might be necessary to drip water onto the lips of juvenile Bearded Dragons daily to get them to drink,  be sure to ask what the juvenile has been used to when you purchase them.The feeding dishes are used to feed the green vegetables or wet food in;  this prevents the Bearded Dragon from ingesting sand and causing complications that require Veterinarian assistance.

Handling: It is recommended before purchasing your Bearded Dragon to have a demonstration on the best way to hold juvenile and adult Bearded Dragons.  

IT IS IMPORTANT TO WASH YOUR HANDS BEFORE AND AFTER HANDLING BEARDED DRAGONS.

Seek advice from a specialist reptile veterinarian for all health issues.

It is illegal to remove native reptiles from the wild in Australia without the appropriate Government permits,  please check your states regulations on the appropriate permits to enable you to keep captive bred reptiles.  Please do not release any captive reptiles into the wild as this will disrupt the natural order of our environment.

This article was provided courtesy of Reptile One.  Aqua One, Avi One, Pet One, Pond One and Reptile One are trade marks and the property of Kong's (Aust.) Pty Ltd.

Natural distribution: Occur throughout eastern and northern Australia where they occupy a wide variety of habitats ranging from temperate lowland grasslands,  dry sclerophyll forest,  semi-arid grassland and woodland,  and coastal plains.   

Adult size (including tail): 450-600mm

Temperature in captivity:  Day time air temperature 23-26°C,  night time should not be lower than 18°C.The Blue-tongue should be able to regulate its body temperature in a basking spot (range of 30-40°C) on the floor of the vivarium.  Reptile One Daylight Basking Lamp or Reptile One Fan Heater positioned over the selected basking spot is ideal;  the soft air movement created by the Reptile One Fan Heater circulates the air in the vivarium more efficiently.  The wattage size of the lamps are determined by the size of the vivarium and internal décor.

Eastern Blue-tongues are diurnal (day time) reptiles and will require the day lights/ heat lamps to be turned off at night.  To keep your Blue-tongue  warm at night,  place a Reptile One Heat Mat under a Reptile One Cave or Log,  this will allow the Blue-tongue to settle on the mat while feeling protected by the ornament.  The Reptile One Heat Mat can be left all the time so do not position directly under the Reptile Daylight Basking Lamp.  The heat mat should not greater than 25% of the floor area.

Lighting: Reptile One Fluorescent Reflector with a Reptile One UVB5.O tube positioned 30cm above the basking spot,  will provide useful UV to enhance dietary calcium absorption and vitamin D3 production essential to Blue-tongues.

Enclosure: Reptile One have a range of enclosures and cabinets that are suitable for Blue-tongues,  minimum suggested size for juveniles would be 60cm and adults 90cm with a choice of glass or timber finishes.

The aesthetic properties of the Reptile One Bedding for Lizards will provide an ideal substrate and allow for ease of cleaning up after your Blue-tongue.  Your Blue-tongue will benefit from the inclusion of artificial plants to provide shade areas in the vivarium similar to the lizard’s normal environment.  

Ornaments: A choice of Reptile One decorative rocks and tree branches will give you the ability to provide natural retreats.

Diet & Feeding: Blue-tongues are basically omnivorous,  requiring a balance of Insects (crickets,  cockroaches, mealworms),  snails,  slugs or earthworms and a mix  of green and red vegetables (spinach,  coloured lettuce,  tomato, red or green peppers,  mushrooms or rose petals) and raw eggs.  Occasionally some boiled egg can be added to the mix, fruits will also be taken with relish,  some Blue-tongues will develop preferences so try a range of fruits like;  apple, banana, pear,  fig ,melon,  plum,  kiwi fruit,  raisins or strawberries,  depending on what is in season.Food is best offered to Blue-tongues in the late morning through to midday,  after they have had time to bask and have become active.  Food can be left in the enclosure until the Blue-tongue has finished eating,  it is best to remove leftovers as soon as possible that day.

Blue-tongues will prefer their food presented in a shallow bowl.  It is suggested to feed juvenile Blue-tongues 5 times per week while adults can be fed 3 times per week.Water dishes should be stable and replenished daily.

Handling: It is recommended before purchasing your Blue-tongue to have a demonstration on the best way to hold juvenile and adult Blue-tongues.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO WASH YOUR HANDS BEFORE AND AFTER HANDLING BLUE-TONGUES.

Seek advice from a reptile specialist veterinarian for all health issues.

It is illegal to remove Blue-tongues from the wild in Australia without the appropriate Government permits,  please check your states regulations on the appropriate permits to enable you to keep captive bred Blue-tongues.  Please do not release any captive Blue-tongues into the wild as this will disrupt the natural order of our environment.

This  article was provided courtesy of Reptile One.  Aqua One, Avi One, Pet One, Pond One and Reptile One are trade marks and the property of Kong's (Aust.) Pty Ltd.

The world’s first 3D water cube aquarium, the 23 litre Fluval EDGE can be filled to the very brim thanks to the glass top, providing high definition viewing from every angle.  

The partially sealed top reduces evaporation for less maintenance and a large, hidden aperture allows oxygen exchange to keep fish healthy. A floating base design gives the set a very small footprint for easy placement and lends the aquarium a clean, contemporary look.

Visually Stunning

A powerful, retractable halogen lighting system creates a visually stunning display.  Two 10 watt bulbs create a bright, directional light source for a beautiful ‘shimmer’ effect across your entire aquatic scene.

Advanced, Hidden Filtration

Fluval EDGE comes complete with a powerful and efficient 3 stage filter which remains completely hidden, preserving the striking aquarium design.  

Featuring mechanical, chemical and biological filtration for clear, healthy water, the EDGE filter is taken from Hagen’s Aquaclear clip on filter range, currently the world’s best selling filter.

Easy Assembly and Maintenance

Fluval EDGE takes only seconds to assemble and the perforated, removable cover effectively dissipates lamp heat, avoids moisture and allows easy access to the filter’s lift out media trays.  

A range of EDGE cleaning accessories are available, making cleaning and maintenance child’s play!

Choosing Your Fish

EDGE friendly species include White Cloud Mountain Minnows, Betta Splendens, Barbs, Danios, small Goldfish, Crystal Red Shrimps, Snails. Remember, Goldfish in particular grow so may need to be moved to a larger tank later in life.

Allow a minimum of 3 litres of water for every 1cm of fish, excluding the tail. Tropical fish require an aquarium heater. 

"Inspired by architectural styling, the FLUVAL EDGE aquarium creates a unique visual effect capturing emotion and serenity within a contemporary setting."

One of the most important considerations for canine nutrition is age. If you have a puppy, you will need to purchase special products that are made for young dogs. Puppies need things to help them develop and grow. You may wish to make your own or buy commercial pet foods. There are good things and bad things with both of these decisions. For instance, making your own food provides the purest ingredients but is much more work than buying ready-made products.

If you buy commercial puppy products you may receive all of the nutrients required. However, you must check the labels and research products completely. Check with your veterinarian or pet care professional on things like proper nutrition. This is best done when bringing your new puppy in for its initial exam. Most veterinarians carry several kinds of high quality pet foods.

When you purchase pet foods from your veterinarian, you may pay more than standard prices. However, you will be assured of the best products that you can feed your pet. You can also buy the same kind of premiuim products at reputable pet food stores or by searching online, as these products may be lower in cost.

You may have several dogs to feed and wish to buy in bulk to save money. This is fine if the dogs are of similar ages and size. However, puppies need twice the calories of adult dogs, as they are still growing. They require more fat, protein, phosphorus, and calcium also. Standard pet foods do not have proper puppy nutrition, in most cases.

Maybe your pet is older and needs a special diet. Your vet will help you choose the best products. When dogs age they should have products that are made for older dogs. Older dogs may have dental problems and require something softer than dry foods. They also may need something to encourage easier bowel movements, as they age.

Maybe you have no idea how to choose dog food. Your local vet or pet store can provide excellent advice on the matter. You may need to research several products to choose the one you like the best. Make sure that you choose products that are age specific.

Get more information and details about how to choose the dog food that will meet your pet's nutritional and activity needs and requirements today! Learn about the benefits and advantages of using a quality Royal Canin dog food today!

Here's our hermit crab checklist of essentials for looking after your hermit crab:

• A friend - Hermit crabs are social so getting a friend (or three) will keep your crab(s) happy.
• Glass aquarium or terrarium - you'll need this to keep your crab in a warm and humid environment. Plastic or wire cages are too small and you won't be able to control the warmth or humidity.
• Light/Heat - low wattage (15-25W) lighting including incandescent moon- or night-glow bulbs or under-tank heater for heat
• Substrate - clean sand (use aquarium sand) or compressed coconut fiber as a substrate, at least twice as deep as your largest crab, and kept moist. Crabs need to bury themselves to molt and relieve stress, and also for fun.
• Extra shells - at least 2 of each size needed by your crabs, with round or oval openings the same size as the big pincher - to allow them to grow up, have fun shell-shopping, and to prevent shell fights.
• Food dish  - and food - choose a small, shallow food dish and fill with special hermit crabs pellets or cookies.  If you buy a good food that is specially made for your hermit crab you shouldn't need to add other supplements.
• Water bowls x 2 - one for freshwater and one for saltwater.  Get shallow dishes or else place a small sea sponge in the bowl (so smaller crabs don't drown).
• Water dechlorinator - tap water must be treated to remove chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals.  A drop or two of water dechlorinator added to the tap water will do the trick.
• Salt - use marine salt (or special hermit crab salt).  Do not use table salt; the iodine in it is harmful to crabs.
• Climbing toys & foilage - such as driftwood, plastic aquarium plants, wicker baskets, fish tank ornaments etc.
• Hiding shelters - such as half-logs, caves, and coco-huts (they need a place to feel safe and relieve stress).
• Water spray bottle - a great way to help keep their environment humid.  Make sure the water has been dechlorinated first.

If you're ever not sure and need some advice - feel free to drop us an email or give us a call - we're here to help !

Do you consider yourself to be a SNAPO - a Sensitive New Age Pet Owner??  SNAPO'S are the pinnacles of pet owning society - blessed with more than the average share of compassion towards the creatures we share our lives with - the soul mates of canine cognition and feline philanthropy.

Well, here's a brain teaser - would a SNAPO feed his dog or cat a chicken bone?  While that may sound a bit pedestrian to you, or to your pooch or moggy, it is quite important.

To a dog, there is nothing as pleasurable as a wholesome bone to gnaw on and, generally speaking, bones are good for dogs. While the feeding of bones to cats is, regretfully,  a little less common, there are still great benefits to be gained from throwing your tranquil tiger a bone two or three times a week.

Bones are an essential part of a pet's diet and are especially useful to maintain dental health and to aid in alleviating the often humdrum normality that is a tragic part of the lives of many Twenty-First Century pets.

Bones are an excellent source of protein and minerals and they perform the very useful function of keeping a pet's teeth free from scale and tartar.

It's easy for us vets to determine which of you pet owners are SNAPO's just by looking inside your pet's mouth when you bring them to our clinics. Dogs and cats that receive a regular bone come into the clinic with what we call a 'Bona Lisa' smile.  Their teeth are a sparkling white colour and there is a total lack of that awful, telltale yellow discolouration of the molars, typical of a pet with dental calculus.

Bona Fide Bones

The first rule is that raw bones are preferable to cooked bones as raw bones are digested a lot more easily.  There are one or two exceptions to this which I will mention later.

The best types of bones to feed are the softer types.  Soft brisket bones are excellent, knuckle bones are good and so are large marrow bones.  It is much better if the bones have big chunks of meat attached as this provides excellent exercise for the teeth and gums. 

Recent research has shown that ox tails, chicken wings and chicken necks are particularly valuable - but some dogs even like raw carrots!!  A raw carrot is totally safe and cleans the teeth as well as a bone.

At this point, I am sure that many pet owners are shrieking in horror at the thought of feeding their pets chicken bones.  Has not the veterinary industry been saying for years that chicken bones are dangerous because they splinter?  Times change and the birds that are sent to market now are young, immature birds of about 12 - 14 weeks of age.  Their bones are soft, especially the bones of the wings and necks, and are quite safe.  

Alternatively, pig's ears and similar smoked chews are enjoyed by most dogs and are generally quite safe.

Cats are a bit more cerebrally endowed than dogs and to some, the idea of chewing a bone in public is just too low class to be considered for a creature of such superior station.  It all comes back to the catch phrase of the cat lobby - Cats Rule Dogs Drool.  However, if they are sure no one's looking, even the haughtiest of felines will usually succumb to a chicken wing if the flesh is browned in a frying pan or masterfully roasted to purrfection.  So, as an exception to the 'raw bone rule', cats do often seem to prefer their chicken wings at least seared brown or roasted.  In reality, it is rare indeed for chicken wings from a roast chicken to cause cats (or dogs) problems.

Boney Tails

Ox tails are almost scientifically designed to suit your pet's needs.  They are fat and broad near the butt of the tail and, of course, are smaller and thinner at the tip.  Therefore, ox tails are designed to cater for different sized mouths.  Great Dane owners would do well to choose the thicker cuts while cat owners should choose the thinner ones near the tip of the tail.  You will find all sizes in the meat cabinet of your local supermarket.  The shape of an Ox Tail is ideal as, being a meaty bone of cylindrical shape, the animals really get their molar teeth grinding away at the meat and bone.  It is this very grinding action that also grinds away the scale on your pet's teeth.

By comparison, the wrong types of bones can certainly cause problems.

Bones such as chop bones, T-Bones and fish bones should never be given to pets. These bones have a dangerous tendency to splinter into sharp fragments and, when swallowed, they can perforate the dog's bowel with life-threatening consequences.

Occasionally, when a dog crushes a bone, it can also wedge inside the dog's mouth.  It often wedges transversely between the teeth on the left and those on the right side of the mouth, or it can lodge over a molar tooth where it becomes stuck like a bulldog clip.  However, problems like this are almost always caused by cooked bones and only rarely by raw bones.

Bones lodged inside the mouth can sometimes by removed by levering the bone out with a blunt instrument such as the rounded metal handle of a sturdy dessert spoon.  However be careful as this can be very difficult and dangerous as the dog may be so frantic that it will try to bite.  The best solution is a quick trip to the veterinarian.

Bone Idle Dogs

There are other advantages with feeding dogs and cats bones. The biggest advantage of a meaty bone is that dogs and cats enjoy them so much. 

So often our domesticated pets lead a dull life.  Dogs lie in the back yard for hours with little to interest them.  No wonder they leap into a paroxysm of barking whenever a stranger or another dog walks past their front gate as this is likely to be the highlight of their day.  A bone can change all that.

A large, raw bone will keep a dog content for hours.  If you are in the habit of leaving your dog unattended during the day, leave a raw bone out for it occasionally.  This will delay the onset of boredom and may help to stop the dog barking during your absence. Even cats will benefit from the boredom relief that a bone affords.  

Don't forget to hug your pet.

Feliway® is a synthetic copy of the feline facial pheromone, used by cats to mark their territory as safe and secure.  By mimicking the cat’s natural facial pheromones, Feliway® creates a state of familiarity and security in the cat's local environment.

As a result, Feliway can be used to help comfort and reassure cats, while they cope with a challenging situation and/or help prevent or reduce the stress caused to a cat during a change in their environment.

Use Feliway to help with stressful situations such as:

• my cat is scratching the new furniture
• my cat is spraying everywhere
• my cat doesn't like travelling by car
• I'm moving house.  How will my cat cope?
• My cats don't get on...
• My cat doesn't like new people...
• I am adopting a new cat...
• We are going on holiday. What about our cat?
• My cat doesn't like visiting the vet…

Signs of Stress

Cats may react to stress in a number of ways and also to a varying degree.   Some cats may be able to cope very well with a stressful event or a change in their environment and may only feel uncomfortable for a few days or just for a few hours. In this case, stress is unlikely to have any serious consequences. However, others will have serious problems coping with even small challenges. These cats are far more likely to suffer acute or chronic stress, which can have a real impact on their health, contributing to or exacerbating problems such as cystitis, dermatological conditions, anorexia and obesity.

Please note: If you are worried about your cats stress levels or if you believe your cat is suffering from any of the medical conditions discussed above, consult your veterinary surgeon before engaging in any course of action. He/she will recommend suitable options which may include behaviour therapy if appropriate.

Some signs are easy to detect. Others are more subtle and may be more difficult to link with stress.

These signs are more often reported as a 'problem' for you, the owner, than as signs of stress for your cat(s). There are 3 types of obvious signs which you should be able to easily identify:

Scratch marks
Only vertical scratch marks are considered to be a sign of stress. But your cat can also scratch on vertical surfaces to keep its claws in trim.  If the cat targets only one or two specific sites in the home, usually in hidden or 'quiet' areas, it is likely to be keeping its claws in shape for hunting.

If the scratching becomes more widespread, particularly if found in visible areas around doorways and windows, or centered on prominent objects such as a settee, then this may be an indication that the cat is unsettled or stressed. In this case the cat may be scratch marking to increase the number of visual and scent signals in the immediate environment.

Urine marks
Feline urine spraying is one of the primary methods used by cats to mark out their territory. Whether male or female, neutered or not, it is exhibited in some way by almost every cat.  But while spraying urine outdoors may be acceptable, most owners find the behaviour difficult to tolerate in the home due to the strong odour and potential hygiene risks.

Urine marking is a very specific behavioural sequence where the cat adopts a posture that is easy to recognise:

• He approaches a vertical surface (wall, item of furniture…)
• He sniffs the surface and is seen to treads the floor
• The cat then turns his back
• Standing with his tail erected, he emits a horizontal jet of urine onto the object 

Marks of urine are generally small and seen above the ground. Urine on the floor, large volumes of urine or urine in the sleeping area are typically not signs of urine marking and it is advisable that you consult your veterinary surgeon.

Aggression
In very stressful situations, some cats can react aggressively towards people, other cats or other household pets.  This type of behaviour usually only occurs when a cat has no way to escape or no other means to express his stress.

Most importantly, it is vital to remember that the aggression may not necessary be shown towards the person, animal or object causing the cat stress. If your cat is stressed, he may bite you just because you were in the wrong place at the wrong time, not necessarily because you are the direct cause of the stress.

If all or most of the aggressive behaviour is targeted towards one cat, Feliway may help by reducing the stress levels of all the cats in your household.

Overlooked signs
Some cats will display more discreet signs, such as:

• Food intake disorders (anorexia or over-feeding)
• Overgrooming (bald areas) or undergrooming (matted or soiled fur)
• House soiling
• Decreasing levels of activity
• Appearing withdrawn (reduced desire to play or interact)

How does Feliway work?

Feliway is a synthetic copy of the feline facial pheromone, used by cats to mark their territory as safe and secure.  By mimicking the cat’s natural facial pheromones, Feliway creates a state of familiarity and security in the cat's local environment.  

What is pheromonatherapy?
Pheromonatherapy (or pheromonotherapy, depending on the authors), is a new way to manage behaviour problems in animals. It is an innovative and natural solution to stress related problems in cats and dogs.

What are pheromones?
Pheromones are 'chemical signals' used to communicate between members of the same species.  As a result pheromones emitted by one individual can affect and change the behaviour of other individuals of the same species.

The most well known are the sex pheromones used to make the bitch or queen more attractive to the male when they are in season. However, pheromones can also be used to mark territory, intimidate aggressors etc....

How does an animal detect pheromones in the enviroment?
Pheromones are secreted into the air by one animal and detected by a specific organ situated in the upper palate. 

To detect the pheromones, animals pump air into the vomeronasal organ. This ”pumping” behaviour is called “flehmen”. Depending on the species, the flehmen can be very discreet (as in cats) or quite obvious (as seen in horses and sheep).

On detection, the pheromone induces a subconscious behaviour change.

Other uses of pheromones
Pheromones are used for a wide variety of situations.  In behaviour management, appeasing pheromones can be used to prevent or reduce stress related behaviour problems.  In zoos pheromones have successfully helped improve animal welfare.  Pheromones are also widely use in vineyards to ward off pests.

Using the Feliway Diffuser

General advice to consider when using the Feliway Diffuser:

• Remove the vial cap
• Screw the diffuser onto the vial and gently tighten
• Plug the diffuser into an electric socket
• Do not plug in behind a door, curtain or underneath furniture
• Leave the device switched on continuously for at least four weeks
• Replace the refill as required
  Always consult your veterinary surgeon if your cat is showing signs of stress. Your cat's problem may be of a clinical origin and may require further treatment.

The device and the refill are specially designed for the Feliway Diffuser. The product cannot be guaranteed if a different device is used with the refill. Similarly, the electric device should not be used with another substance.

** The information in this article has been sourced from - a global veterinary health company focused on the research, development, production and marketing of pharmaceutical products and vaccines for pets.  CEVA Santé Animale manufacture the Feliway product range featured in this article and on our website.

Dry food, canned food, raw food, cooked food, just meat, vegetables.... Just what is the right food to feed your dog?
The answer you will get will probably depend on who you ask and what they feed their own dog. And here's our opinion...

Whenever we are asked what dog food is the best, we advise that there are two ways to go:

1. Bones and Raw Food Diet (commonly known as the BARF diet); or
2. Premium/Super Premium Dry Dog Food.

Either of these are equally as good and both are many times better than the cheaper dry or wet (canned) foods. And there are a number of reasons why we recommend them:

• overall health of your dog will be better
• potential to lower your long term vet bills
• less chance of joint problems
• less skin and coat irritations
• less oral problems and better dental hygiene
• lower chance of obesity
• less stools & reduced stool odour (one of th extra benefits that we can all appreciate!)

So what is the BARF diet?

The BARF diet (‘Bones And Raw Food' or ‘Biologically Appropriate Raw Food')

This will take your dog back to a diet that mimics the food they would have eaten naturally - raw meats, bones, raw vegetables and some fruits. It is the optimum diet for your pet and has a number of benefits:

• Improved skin and coat - and a reduction in those persistent skin problems
• Increased energy levels - and improvements in mobility for arthritis sufferers
• Improved teeth and breath - with cleaner, sweeter breath, tartar elimination, and healthier gums
• Reduced stool volume and odour - through highly digestible products and a high bone content
• Minimises the chance of developing common dog diseases - such as diabetes, heart disease, arthritis and cancer, all of which can have as their basic cause modern cooked and processed grain based pet foods

At Pets Unleashed, we stock Big Dog (BARF) Patties as well as the Complete Organic Raw Food alternative providing an easy way for you to switch your pet to this diet. This form of the diet comes in a pack of frozen patties and in a range of different flavours (BARF - Chicken, Beef, Lamb, Pork, Kangaroo, Rabbit, Combination; Complete Organic - Chicken, Kangaroo, Goat).

       

Each pattie contains raw foods such as muscle meat, organ meat, bones, vegetables, fruit, eggs and yoghurt and are rich in essential fats, proteins, vitamins, minerals, enzymes, natural phytochemicals and anti-oxidants. There are no fillers, no chemicals, no colouring, no preservatives, no heat processing and no grains.

So why pay for the Premium/Super Premium dry dog foods?

Dog food is no different to our food in the sense that you get what you pay for. Whilst the cheaper brands may have a similar basic nutritional analysis, the quality of the ingredients is lower.

Cheaper brands are likely to have ‘fillers', such as wheat and sorghum, as their main ingredient. Fillers, especially wheat based fillers, are known to be a cause of food related allergies and intestinal upset in animals. Cheaper brands are also more likely to contain colourings, preservatives, additives, and higher levels of sodium - none of which are good for the long term health of your furry children.

You'll also find that the cheaper brands won't have the additional added ingredients essential for optimum growth, skin conditioning, stomach sensitivities, oral care or general well being.
If it's the price you'll pay for a bag of the super premium and premium brands that makes you glance away, remember that the premium foods are nutrient dense and you will be feeding your dog less per serving than the cheaper brands.

You'll also be providing them with much better nutrition which will save you money over the long term in other ways, including less unplanned visits to the vet.

We stock a range of the super premium and premium brands in store - Royal Canin, Hills Science Diet, Advance, Canidae, PRo Plan, Nutro Natural Choice, Eukanuba, & IAMS. Come in and have a chat about which one might be best for you.

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

Start your freshwater aquarium properly & getting into a good maintenance routine will give you the best chance of keeping your fish healthy and your tank cleaner. And don't be afraid of bacteria - there are good and bad bacteria and finding the balance will make all of the difference.

Different fish have different requirements but the basics are much the same for most common freshwater fish. You need to know what the ideal pH and other water conditions are for your fish. Ensure you know these and understand them when you purchases your fish.
To start your tank off on the right fin, you'll need to ensure you set the chemistry and the environment up properly. We suggest you'll need the following:

• Chlorine neutralizer or water conditioner
• Live "good bacteria"
• Conditioning salts
• Depending on the type of fish - filter and heater

Start with a few hardy fish. Adding new fish in few numbers allows you to adjust the water conditions and care accordingly and in the long term will mean you'll lose less fish.
Maintenance of your tank water conditions is essential. Ammonia Build up, pH fluctuations as well as disease, are the common killers of fish. Key tank maintenance involves:

• Changing between 25% and 30% of your water every 2 weeks, for most freshwater fish. It is essential to add chlorine neutralizer or water conditioner when you change the water. For very healthy fish, you should add new, live "good bacteria" also and consider adding conditioning salts.
• Clean the filter when you do your water changes and change the filter media when required. There are many different types of ammonia removers available and other products which help remove dangerous chemicals form your tank water. These should be replaced regularly accorind to the direction provided with the product.
• Clean the gravel at least every month - dirt or uneaten food will build up and the resultant ammonia and pH changes will either make your fish sick or kill them.
• Check the pH regularly - for instance just before you change the water and a few days after. A change of pH often is a good indicator that something else in your tank isn't right.

If your fish starts to behave or look different in any way get advice straight away. Treatments are available for a large number of fish diseases but it is important to start treatment as soon as possible.

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

Sit is the most basic of all behaviours and is useful in a number of situations:

• Teach your dog to sit as a substitute for problem behaviour such as jumping up, door-dashing or leaping out of cars (ie. your dog cannot 'sit' and jump simultaneously!)
• You can teach your dog to say 'Please' by sitting politely for things he wants
• Teaching sit helps you to have a well-mannered dog that is also socially acceptable in the human world.

Method

1. Hold a treat (or toy) in your fingers and put the treat near your dog's nose.
2. SLOWLY move the treat up and over the dog's head and slightly back towards the tail
3. Your dog should be watching the treat move over his head and as his head moves backwards his rear should automatically begin to go down.
4. As his rear hits the floor, mark (say 'Yes'!) immediately and reward.
5. Allow him to move around and repeat steps 1-4 until he offers a sit in response to your hand movement. (DO NOT use a verbal command to sit until you have the behaviour happening CONSISTENTLY in response to your hand signal.)
6. Try using a hand signal (palm facing up, slowly move your hand from your waist in an upward movement) WITHOUT a food treat.  Use a treat as a reward rather than a lure.
7. When your dog responds 8 times out of 10 tries to a hand signal alone THEN you are ready to start naming the 'sit'.  Say 'Sit' immediately before you give the dog a hand signal to sit.  Mark and reward.

Troubleshooting

1. Your dog jumps up to get the food
   You are holding the treat (lure) too high.  Think of the treat as a magnet to your dogs nose.
2. Your dog moves forward towards you
   You are not holding the treat close enough to his nose.
3. Your dog gets over excited by the food and tries to dislodge from your hand with his paw or teeth.
   Hold the food close to your chest and turn your head away (withdraw attention) until he settles down.  Repeat until he settles.  You may also want a more boring treat to start with!
4. Your dog backs up instead of sitting
   Try training against a wall, corner or piece of furniture
5. Your dog is distracted and is not interested in the treat
   Try using a toy instead.  Try training in a more boring enviroment where there is nothing else for the dog to focus on (eg. bathroom, laundry, etc.).  Try this exercise before dinner when your dog is hungry.

** Article sourced with the permission of Danielle and Urban Dog Training - www.urbandogtraining.com.au.

If its Christmas time and you're a Sensitive New Age Pet Owner, then you have already compiled a long list of the presents that you are going to give to your pampered pet. If you're a little short on ideas though, maybe the following will help.

Give a Dog a Bone

The simplest things are often the best. So this Christmas why not 'give your dog a bone'?

Give a selection of bones, freeze them and give one each day, just as you leave for work. That will help to relieve boredom. Brisket bones, marrow bones, chicken wings, lamb shanks and ox tails are all wonderful bones for dogs. The smaller ones are great for cats too. Just ensure that you always give raw bones which your dog will be able to digest more easily. Rawhide chews and pigs ears are also wonderful and not quite as messy.

Kong Balls are like a bone with an IQ. A Kong is shaped like a bumpy pyramid and resembles the Michelin man. It will bounce unpredictably when thrown but also has a hole through the middle. Fill this hole with food and give the 'loaded' Kong to your dog or cat. The devious toy will entertain your pet for ages as your pet works out how to get the food. There are heaps of different sizes to suit dogs, cats and even bored and batty birds!

The Buster Cube and the Training Treat roller ball have a similar theme. Place food inside the cube and as your dog rolls it around the floor, fragments of food will fall out as a reward.

Twinkling Teeth for Christmas?

If you have a friend whose pet has 'death breath', give them a big hint by presenting their pet with a toothbrush and toothpaste for Christmas. Your vet and pet store have a pet tooth brush that fits over the end of a finger and a tube of toothpaste that goes with it. The toothpaste comes in unusual flavours like malt and poultry! Essence of postman is the next flavour on the list, especially for Rottweilers and Dobermans!

For cats and dogs, you could buy some enzymatic, dental chew treats. Rawhide chews are available for dogs and fish base chews for cats. The enzymes dissolve dental scale and tartar. The texture of the chews is such that they have a mild abrasive action that also helps to clean the teeth.

For pooches and puss cats that are young or for those that are lonely at night why not try a Snuggle Pet? These plush, furry pets come equipped with a vibrating heart that gives off a comforting and rhythmical beating sound that mimics the heartbeat of a companion.

Bird-brained Presents

Let's not forget our feathered friends. Treat bells, millet stalks, and seed sticks are a great idea and available from most pet shops.

What about toys for birds? A whole range of bird toys is now available to keep your feather duster chirpy. There's bells, ropes, paper, beads and so much more.  Why not buy a few so you can rotate them to keep them interested for much longer.

For great ideas and supplies, see your local pet shop and, in the meantime - have a happy Christmas!

Practical Uses

The goal of teaching your dog to 'leave it' is to stop your dog from taking something into its mouth or investigating something that is dangerous or questionable (such as rubbish, faeces, cane toads, children's toys etc.)

By teaching the 'leave it' command you will be able to safely walk your dog in many situations, which could otherwise prove to be unpleasant if not dangerous.

Method

1. Hold a treat in your hand and close your fingers around it
2. Present your hand to your dog
3. Your dog will mug your hand, licking, nudging and pawing trying to get you to release the treat.   As soon as your dog gives up and moves away from the treat mark (eg. 'Yes!') and reward.
4. DO NOT pull your hand away from the dog, this will teach your dog to be 'grabby' and lunge forward to get the treats.
5. When you can consistently produce your hand to your dog and can predict he will not touch it, begin to cue 'leave it' in a firm but friendly voice immediately before presenting your hand.
6. Try opening your hand revealing the treat and having your dog 'leave it'.  If he mugs your hand close your fingers around the treat (do not pull your hand away).

Troubleshooting

1. Your dog will not give up!  He keeps mugging your hand trying to get the treat
   You are not waiting long enough.  He WILL give up..... eventually.
2. Your dog bites your hand
   You will need to work on bite inhibition BEFORE continuing with this exercise.  Speak to Urban Dog Training about how they can help.

** Article sourced with the permission of Danielle and Urban Dog Training - www.urbandogtraining.com.au.

When shopping pet foods, age is very important. Puppies need special things to help them properly grow and develop. Whatever you decide to feed your puppy, it must provide total nutrition. You may decide to buy commercial foods or prepare your own. There are advantages and disadvantages to both. When you prepare your own meals for your puppy, you can be assured that it is getting pure ingredients.

Commercial puppy feed can provide all of the important nutrients that they need. However, it is best to read labels and do some research. One of the best sources of nutritional information is your local veterinarian or reputable pet shop. When you bring your puppy in for its first visit, ask the vet or local pet store professional what is best to feed it. Most vets and quality pet shops have excellent selections of products with proper nutrition.

It may be a little more expensive to buy from the vet, but you will be sure of getting excellent quality. You should also check local pet stores and online retailers. They may have the same products priced lower. This way you can provide good nutrition and not break your household budget.

Perhaps you have more than one dog in the household and want to save money by buying in bulk. You need to remember that puppies need a great deal more calories per day to support their growing bodies. They need to have more calcium, fat, and protein also. Regular adult pet foods do not usually contain the right nutrition for puppies.

If you have an older pet, they may have special needs when it comes to nutrition. Your vet or local pet store can recommend the proper products for older dogs. If your pet is getting gray you should consider a product that is designed for senior dogs. Also, older dogs may sometimes have problems with their teeth, and they may need a softer diet for better digestion.

If you are not sure how to choose dog food, take the time to research recommended products. Ask your local veterinarian or pet shop for advice. Consider the age of your pet and buy foods that are made especially for them. This will insure that you are providing the best nutrition.

Get more information and details about how to choose the dog food that will meet your pet's nutritional and activity needs and requirements today! Learn about the benefits and advantages of using a quality Royal Canin dog food today!

Perhaps you could do with a best buddy and are wondering what type of pet would best suit you and your lifestyle. Let's look at some options.

Is a Dog For Me?

The advantage of dogs as pets stems from their exceptionally faithful personality. Dogs are pack animals and thereby are very social creatures. They prosper from a balanced relationship with their owners and for every gram of affection given to them, they give a kilogram back.

They are usually active animals and will passionately enjoy daily jaunts around the suburbs with their owners, where both benefit from the exercise.  They are ultimately trainable, entertaining and exceptional company.

There are a huge variety of breeds available that will suit all tastes. They range from the diminutive but manipulative three kilogram Chihuahuas to the huge and massive 100kg St Bernards.

Health wise, dogs are one of the more expensive animals to maintain, and the bigger they are the  more they cost. You will need to be prepared to outlay about $1500 per year for their routine care and feeding, particularly in the first year of life. Food is the single biggest recurrent cost with dog ownership. Flea control and heartworm prevention are probably the next largest recurring costs. Desexing will cost from $90 to $200 and vaccinations from $40 to $70 a time.

To buy a dog, you will spend from nothing to over $1000, with purebreds naturally being more expensive. However, if you are concerned about the purchase price of your new house guest, perhaps you should rethink whether a pet is for you. The purchase price is tiny compared to the potential costs of future care.

For an exceptional deal, visit the RSPCA or local animal shelter where you can adopt a wonderful homeless hound. Usually they are vaccinated, desexed, and heartworm free.

Cats as Pets

Cats are wonderful pets. They are superior and intelligent in nature, graceful and mischievously playful. They are masters of their own destiny and are often aloof and independent. Unlike dogs, they are not pack animals, but practise a more solitary lifestyle which is why they are less dependant on their owners and why they appear more aloof. They are less active than dogs (usually!!) and do not usually need or tolerate walks through the suburbs as well as dogs. They are therefore well suited to a family with a less active lifestyle.

They are the only true 'self cleaning' items in your household and are usually very tidy in their habits. Unlike dogs they bury their droppings and, given access to the outside, you are unlikely to find their waste deposits.

They can be successfully kept inside the house when provided with a litter tray. This is often advisable if you live near a busy road or in an area with a vulnerable population of wildlife.

Health wise, they tend to suffer fewer disease problems when compared with dogs. Cats are better suited to people who lead busy lifestyles. If you are away from home for long periods and are worried about the effect of this on a dog, then consider a feline as a friend. A cat will tolerate separation from you in a much better fashion than a dog.

A cat will cost around $750 a year to maintain in proper health.

Reptiles as Pets

If you are looking for something different, have you considered having a reptile as a pet?

Reptiles kept as pets include animals such as snakes, lizards and turtles. They have dry skin covered with scales and, mostly, lay eggs.

Lizards, such as Blue Tongues and the Shingle Back Lizard, are gentle, lazy critters. They represent a direct link with the dinosaur era and in that fact alone they are fascinating animals.

While they are interesting pets, reptiles do have particular  requirements with respect to their housing and feeding which makes them a bit more difficult to manage than the standard pet.

As for snakes, they fascinate many people, and equally as many are horrified by them. If you are considering keeping pet snakes, then please look before you leap - most will bite and some snakes are obviously dangerous. Keeping venomous snakes as pets is foolish.

What Laws Relate to the Keeping of Reptiles? 

Herpetology, the keeping of reptiles and amphibians, is covered by your state Nature Conservation Act or similar legislation. Local Authority By-Laws may also restrict the ownership of reptiles. If you are considering keeping reptiles you must ring the relevant state and local authorities to ensure you are able to keep the animals you are interested in.

Housing 

Careful attention to housing and, in particular, temperature is one of the most important aspects of herpetology. Reptiles are cold-blood animals. This means that they must draw their heat from their environment and this must be provided for them.

It is important that you know the temperature requirements of the individual species and, then, that the temperature characteristics of the enclosure are determined to see if they match. If you are establishing the cage in winter, be careful that overheating of the enclosure does not occur in summer.

Reptiles also need humidity kept above 50%.

Feeding reptiles is certainly different from feeding other types of pets. They eat an entertaining array of fare.

First, lizards only need to be fed twice per week. They can become obese easily - especially Lace Monitors which are 'piggy' lizards.

Herpetologists usually feed large lizards on rats, mice, chickens, chopped lean meat and dog food whereas smaller lizards eat cockroaches, grasshoppers and similar gobbley delights. Some lizards also each vegetable matter.

Mice and Rats as Pets

Have you no room for a pet and no backyard?  Do you want a pet but don't want to spend a fortune on buying and feeding it? Do you dislike noisy, demanding pets that shed hair on your lounge suite and chase cars, and bring in dead birds? Maybe a mouse or rat is just the pet for you.

Mice and rats make fascinating pets. They are social, gentle creatures and cost very little to purchase. They are also cheap and easy to maintain.

They can be housed in a variety of containers such as metal or strong plastic cages. An old aquarium with good ventilation makes a good house as the mouse or rat cannot climb the glass walls.

Mesh cages are suitable but they must have a solid floor.

Bedding should be provided for the rodents and this can be soft paper, wood chips, shavings, or cat litter, especially the paper or lucerne varieties. Sawdust is too fine and dusty and is best avoided.

Although mice are very social creatures, male mice will usually fight if housed together. Therefore, males should be housed in separate containers. Male rats, on the other hand, are more tolerant of each other, and several males and females can be housed in the one cage.

Rats are usually regarded as being more docile and intelligent than mice. They seem to enjoy being handled more, they live longer and are more 'robust'. They also seem to smell less.

Pet ownership is a commitment for life. Don't rush your decisions and ask plenty of questions. That way, you will be well prepared and have very few problems.

Regular grooming helps keep your pet looking and feeling good. Every time your pet is brushed, loose hair and debris are removed from the coat, leaving it cleaner and healthier. Brushing also reduces the risk of matting. Aside from being unattractive, a matted coat limits the skin’s exposure to air, making your pet more prone to skin infections. It is also important to dematt a pet before bathing — once a matt gets wet, it will become tighter and harder to remove.

You and your pet will both appreciate the quality time that you spend together during grooming sessions. In addition to strengthening the bond between the two of you, frequent grooming provides an ideal opportunity to examine your pet  on a regular basis. That way you can spot any signs of illness early, when problems usually are easier to treat.

Introduce your pet to the idea of grooming early in life. Puppies will quickly become acclimated to a grooming routine. However, it’s never too late to start a grooming program, even if your pet is a senior citizen. If your pet is hesitant to accept grooming at first, don’t get discouraged; keep your grooming sessions short, and offer a treat when they’re completed. Pretty soon your pet will look forward to being groomed — and receiving all the extra attention.

Not sure which grooming tools you need? 

Here's some grooming help for dogs based on their coat type:

Wire-Haired Coats

Dogs in this category have harsh, dense, crinkly coats that give them a distinctive appearance. Most dogs in the terrier group, including the AIREDALE and the SCOTTISH TERRIER have wiry coats, as do SCHNAUZERS. 

Wire-haired coats are relatively easy to maintain with weekly grooming, both using a steel pin brush and slicker brush. When brushing, work against the grain of the hair, then repeat brushing with the grain. The outer wiry coat becomes soft when it gets too long and must be removed, usually by clipping or hand-stripping.

Short-Haired Coats

Dogs like the DOBERMAN PINSCHER, GREYHOUND and ROTTWEILER that have short and smooth hair are often classified as "smooth-coated". Weekly brushing, using a rubber brush, is all that's needed to remove dead hair and maintain a lustrous, healthy appearance. For smooth-coated dogs with slightly longer hair, such as the LABRADOR RETRIEVER, it’s a good idea to use a bristle brush along with a rubber, slicker and steel pin brush when grooming. 

Curly Coats

Typically, curly-coated dogs, such as the POODLE, were originally bred to live and work around water.These thick, tight, curly coats trap air, insulating the dog from water and cold air. Regular grooming that includes clipping by the pet owner or a professional is essential to keeping a curly coat looking its best. Daily at-home grooming with a steel brush, followed by a wire slicker, will remove dead hair and control tangles. 

Double Coats 

Many popular breeds, from the GOLDEN RETRIEVER and the BORDER COLLIE to the GERMAN SHEPHERD and the SIBERIAN HUSKY, are double-coated. In most cases, the inner coat is made of hair that is short and soft. Serving as a protective barrier against the elements, this coat is usually dense.

Outer coats come in a wide variety of lengths and textures. Some double-coated breeds have a short to medium outer coat, while others have a longer outer coat. In breeds such as the POMERANIAN or the SHETLAND SHEEPDOG, the hair is straight and harsh – while other breeds such as the AFGHAN HOUND or the YORKSHIRE TERRIER have silky outer coats. Double-coated dogs should be groomed regularly to keep both the inner and outer coats healthy. The thick hair of the inner coat can be prone to matting when it gets too long. This is especially true of Nordic breeds, many of which will not shed their inner coat hair.

Regular grooming with a slicker brush will remove dead hair and debris from the inner and outer coat.To work on the undercoat, use of an undercoat rake and a wide-toothed comb helps remove hair. For silky coated breeds like the AFGHAN or YORKIE, a mediumtoothed comb should be used. When grooming, you should pay careful attention to areas that are prone to matting, such as behind the ears, the mane and the legs. If matting is severe, consult a professional.

Grooming Tools 

Slicker Brush	Flea Comb	Shedding Comb
Stripping Knife	Double-sided Comb	Dematting Tool
Undercoat Rake	Flea Comb

Click here to see our full range of Dog Grooming Products

** The information in this article has been sourced from Hagen - a global manufacturer of quality pet products.  Hagen is dedicated to understanding their needs and provide you with all the products required to keep them healthy and happy. Hagen manufacture the Le Salon brand of grooming tools featured in this article and on our website.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the Litter Kwitter™?

It is an award-winning training system designed to teach cats to use a human toilet and thereby rid the house of an unhygienic litter tray.

How long does it take to train a cat to use the toilet?

This will depend on a number of factors like your cat’s age, temperament, sense of adventure and intelligence.  We have known cats to take as little as two weeks.  A rule-of-thumb is eight weeks from start to finish.  It’s a small investment for years of a litter-free home.

How does the Litter Kwitter™ work?

The Litter Kwitter™ uses the cat’s existing ability to use a litter tray and modifies it in small behavioural steps until it happily uses the toilet.  Cats have a need to hide the smell of their waste which is why they try to bury it in litter or elsewhere.  The underlying principle of the Litter Kwitter™ training is to gradually expose the cat to the toilet and allow it to experience the toilet’s ability to take away the smell of its waste.

Is the training easy to do? Can anyone do it?

The training is organised into 3 colour-coded stages to make it simple for the cat owner to follow.  The product is supplied with written instructions as well as a 30 minute DVD to actually show cat owners what to do, how to do it and what to expect at each stage.

Will the Litter Kwitter™ arrive with instructions?

The Litter Kwitter™ ships with full printed instructions plus a DVD to lead you through each stage of the training system.  The DVD will play on a PC, MAC or DVD player (VHS on request from the company website).

Can any cat learn to use the toilet?

Any cat that can use a litter tray should be able to learn to use the toilet.

Can you train kittens to use the toilet?

Yes.  In fact kittens are probably the easiest to train.  However, we don’t recommend training kittens below the age of 3 months or particularly small kittens as they may not be strong or coordinated enough to balance well on the toilet rim.

Do I need any tools to fit the Litter Kwitter™ onto my toilet?

No.  The Litter Kwitter™ is not a permanent fixture on your toilet and requires no tools to fit.  You just raise the existing seat and fit the Litter Kwitter™ onto the porcelain rim of the toilet bowl where it fits snugly.

Will the Litter Kwitter™ fit any size toilet bowl?

The Litter Kwitter™ has been designed to fit on 90% of the standard oval toilet bowls in Australasia, UK, USA, Europe and Asia.  It has special clips to ensure a snug fit.  It is not suitable for squat toilets.  If you have an unusual shaped toilet (eg round or square rather than oval) then please check the dimensions to see if it matches the specifications below:

Width: Inner Rim Min 240mm; Outer Rim Max 375mm   Length: Inner Rim Min 290mm

Will I have to leave the Litter Kwitter™ on the toilet permanently?

No.  The last step in the Litter Kwitter™ training is to lower the toilet seat on top of the Litter Kwitter™ to get the cat used to the feel of your regular toilet seat.  Once he’s happy with that simply remove the device from the rim.

I only have one toilet in the house.  How can I train the cat to use the toilet if I need to use it too?

The Litter Kwitter™ has been designed to be easily removed and replaced on the toilet rim.  Simply lift the device from the rim and put the seat down to use the toilet yourself.  Afterwards, raise the seat again and replace the Litter Kwitter™ on the porcelain rim.  It’s as easy as that, no tools required.  You don’t need to remove the litter and the whole process takes 5 seconds.

Do cats have to be litter trained to use the Litter Kwitter™?

Ideally, yes.  The Litter Kwitter™ uses the cat’s existing litter tray behaviour and modifies it to use the toilet.  Most Kittens sold by breeders are already litter trained when you buy them.  However, if yours isn’t this needn’t stop you.  It is relatively easy to litter train a cat and there are many websites that will show you how. 

Can older cats learn to use the toilet?

The simple answer is yes, but as with any training the younger the cat the easier it will be.  Young cats have the least to unlearn whereas older cats have a more entrenched habits.  However, each cat is different and if you have any older cat you will know its personality well.  If it’s generally bright, easy-going and receptive to change then there should be no problem.  As a rule of thumb we’d say that up to the age of five or six there should be no problem.  For older cats just be prepared to be a little more patient and make changes more slowly.

My cat is very big.  Can the Litter Kwitter™ hold its weight?

Most cats fall within the weight range of 2-5 kgs.  The Litter Kwitter™ has been designed to cope with cats of any size or weight.  The Litter Kwitter™ has been designed to suit cats of any size.  If the cat’s size is OK for the toilet then it’s OK for the Litter Kwitter™.  The Litter Kwitter™ could comfortably support the weight of the 30kg cat, if there were such a creature.

Will my cat fall into the toilet?

Cats are nimble creatures and navigating the toilet should be easy for them.  Also, cats don’t like water so they’ll try their best to avoid falling in.

Will litter fall into the toilet?

The Litter Kwitter™ Training Discs have ridges – or returns – to prevent litter from falling in to the toilet pan.  When using litter be sure to only fill just below the height of the ridges on the discs.  It is possible small amounts of litter may still fall into the toilet pan if your cat scratches around vigorously.  We recommend using either recycled paper litter or crystals which should not cause any problems in the small amounts likely to be involved.

Can a de-clawed cat use the Litter Kwitter™?

We see no reason why a de-clawed cat should not be able to use a toilet like any other cat.  If you find your cat has trouble gripping onto the toilet seat you could sue the anti-slip tape used in baths and showers to prevent slipping.  This is available in all good hardware stores.

Can more then one cat be trained at a time?

Yes.  First ensure they all use the sample litter tray rather then having their own tray.  Then simply start the training from there.  The only problem might be if one cat moves at a slower pace then the others – or one has a little accident and misses the hole.  In these cases you will have to be more vigilant and move at the slowest’s pace.  But if you have more than one cat you’ll be used to this!

My cat has a mobility issues (arthritis, less then 4 legs etc).  Can it be trained to use the toilet?

The Litter Kwitter™ has successfully been used to train 3 legged cats although naturally more care needs to be taken to ensure the cat is stable on the toilet.  We don’t recommend training cats with mobility issues but ultimately cat owners know their cats and can make judgements about their ability to adapt.

HEALTH, HYGEINE AND ENVIRONMENTAL QUESTIONS

Is it hygienic to share a toilet with a cat?

The toilet is specially designed to deal with bodily waste in the most hygienic way possible – by immersing it in water to reduce odours and then flushing it away to be treated in water treatment plants or septic tanks.

When cats use the toilet it is usually only their paws that come into contact with the toilet seat – the same paws that already walk on bench tops, pillows and laps.

When cats try to bury their waste in the litter tray they get waste on their paws and then tread it around the house – on the same food preparation areas, bedding and carpets as before.  Which do you think sounds more hygienic?

What about toxoplasmosis?

Toxoplasmosis is a rare but serous disease that can be carried by infected cats and can affect pregnant women and other vulnerable people.  We don’t recommend commencing the Litter Kwitter™ training if you are pregnant or nursing an infant for this reason.  But please be aware that you risk exposure if you have an infected cat that is using a litter tray in your home also.  If you are in a vulnerable group please consult your GP for advice on cat ownership and dealing with their waste.

Do all cats carry the toxoplasmosis bug?

No, they don’t.  In fact the disease is quite rare.  There are some misconceptions here.  The disease does not start in cats: cats can become infected only if they come into contact with the disease – by eating infected meat from wildlife for example.  It is relatively difficult to become infected.  However, if you have any concerns please check with your vet and your doctor before beginning the training.

MISCELLANEOUS QUESTIONS

How well researched is the Litter Kwitter™?

The Litter Kwitter™ is a unique Australian design that uses an understanding of cat psychology to train them to use the toilet.  The training and product design has been developed and tested with input from cat owners, vets and animal behaviourists – in particular Dr Joanne Righetti.  Dr Righetti is one of Australia’s leading animal behaviourists and a regular commentator on cat behaviour for ABC Radio, national magazines and other media.  Her recent book “Cat toileting problems solved” is devoted to issues surrounding cat’s toileting behaviour and features a section on the Litter Kwitter™.

The product itself is unique in allowing the sharing of a toilet, enabling training steps to be revisited, in supporting the weight of all sizes of cats, in requiring no modifications to the toilet and in understanding that cat owners as well as cats need guidance too (via the step-by-step DVD that is supplied with each product).

What awards has the Litter Kwitter™ won?

The Litter Kwitter™ won the PIAA (industry association) New Product on the Year award in 2005, was an episode winner on the ABC’s New Inventors TV program and was a finalist in the Fresh Innovators 2005 national competition.

What publicity has the Litter Kwitter™ received?

It has appeared on TV on Channel 10’s 5pm News, ABC’s New Inventors, CNN Global News Channel, Rove Live on Channel 10, Reuters TV News Website, CBS, Fox, CNBC TV news in the US, BBC News in the UK.  It has appeared in many international, national, state and local newspapers including the Sydney Morning Herald, The Age, The Sun-Herald, The London Sunday Telegraph, The West Australian and The Courier Mail.  It has been featured on national and local radio including ABC National Radio, 2GB, 2UE, Today FM, WSFM in Sydney and equivalent stations in the other states.

Got a dog that gulps his food or has a tendency to suffer from bloat?  Got two dogs that race each other to make sure they get to eat their fair share of food?  Dogs that gulp their food or eat like they're trying to win a race is not uncommon - and not necessarily only applicable to larger dogs.

Typically, dogs that gulp their food:

• May reduce nutrient absorption from their food
• Can feel hungry after they've eaten
• Can eat so fast that they vomit their food
• May be at risk of bloat

What is Bloat?

This is a term that is synonymous with the more scientific term 'Gastric Dilatation/Volvulus', a condition where the stomach can fill with air and become distended and, sometimes, twisted. This can be a fatal condition.

Risk factors for bloat:

• High risk age group (large dogs and older than 5 years or ‘giant’ dogs and older than 3 years)
• Deep, narrow chest compared with other dogs in the same breed
• Having any first degree relative with history of GDV
• Using a raised food bowl
• Being a faster eater compared with other dogs

Slow Feed Bowls 

Slow-Feed bowls are bowls that are designed to slow your dog from gulping their food down.  They feature an obstruction in the bowl that makes dogs slow down naturally when they eat.

The Durapet range of stainless steel Slow-Feed Bowls have a raised obstruction in the bowl to prevent your dog from gulping food.  They are designed to specifically slow dogs down when they eat.

Durapet stainless steel bowls also have a bonded rubber ring on the base of this polished stainless bowl which gives your pet a noisless, skidless eating and drinking experience. This innovative range of bowls have extremely useful and practical features:

• High quality, heavy-duty stainless construction
• Dishwasher safe
• Lifetime guarantee
• No skidding
• No noise

Available in three sizes to suit all breeds:

Small

Medium

Large

Below is a list of things you should consider getting when you first get your new kitten :

• Food – a premium food is always recommended over cheaper alternatives. There are a number of reasons why veterinarians recommend these premium foods. We have a variety of foods available. Please ask our staff to explain the differences.
• Bowls – for water and food. It is recommended that more than one water bowl is used, in case your kitten knocks the bowl over.
• Flea, Intestinal Worming & Heartworm Treatments – your breeder or the place you purchased your kitten from should have told you what treatments your kitten has had and when its’ next ones are due. Please ask our staff to explain the different options and requirements. We recommend you ask your vet to run through the requirements for ongoing treatment when you take your kitten for it’s vaccinations.
  
• Litter & Litter Tray – there are many types of litter & litter trays to choose from. Litter can be clumping, premium clumping, all natural Lucerne based, recycled paper or crystal silica based. Please ask us to explain the differences. We have small kitten litter trays. Larger adult trays and enclosed litter boxes with filters. We also have the unique “Litter Kwitter” –a unique product you can use to train your kitten to use the toilet
• Scratching Pole – kittens and cats naturally scratch to keep their claws sharp. Providing a scratching pole for them to use prevents them using household carpets or sofas as alternatives. There are many varieties and choices in scratching toys / furniture – please ask out staff to show you the choices
• Toys – Toys are a good idea not just for fun but to help occupy and stimulate your kitten. Providing toys may also help prevent your new kitten finding it’s own “toys” amongst your household items
• Bed – your new kitten will appreciate somewhere to curl up in warm. Soft “wooly” textures or hideaway igloos are preferred by most kittens and cats
• Treats – a variety of healthy or natural treats are available. Treats can be used to aid in oral care as well as to reward your cat for good behaviour.
• Collar – Cat collars with a built in safety breaking point should always be used. These are designed to break if the cat gets tangled in something whilst climbing. Bells on the collar help keep wildlife safe if your cat is outside hunting.
• Grooming Brushes / Combs – a variety of brushes and combs are available. Regular grooming is a good idea to remove dead hair and reduce hairballs and tangling.
• Pet Carrier – for taking your cat to the vet / in the car etc.

It's the stuff nightmares are made of. The monster from the deep canal strikes again. Imagine an alien beastie invading your ear. How would it feel to have an eight-legged, hairy, ugly demon exploring every part of your ear, crawling relentlessly next to your ear drum, eating your own body fluids, defaecating with abandon as it moves and relentlessly produces more of its kind?

This monster from the deep canal is a real life villain that could well be inside the ear canal of your cat right now. Many ear infections in cats are caused by ear mites. The ear mite is an eight-legged parasite which is affectionately named Otodectes.  It can also infect dogs, rabbits and even ferrets.

This ugly mite has hairs over its body and, as it moves around the cat's ear canal, the hairs cause intense irritation which can lead to infection and even to the rupture of the ear drum.

How Can You Recognise an Ear Mite Infection?

If your cat is scratching its ears regularly this could be the first sign of an ear mite infection. Infected cats often shake their heads and will hold their heads at an angle. Such cats will have a brown or black, crumbly, 'coffee ground' discharge in their ears and possibly an offensive smell will come from the ears too.

What Problems Can Result from and Ear Mite Infection?

The scratching can become intense and because a cat's hind claws are so sharp, the constant scratching can abrade and lacerate the ears, cheeks and neck as the cat endeavours to alleviate the discomfort. The scratching can also cause an aural haematoma to develop. This is a blood-filled blister which develops on the ear flap. The scratching damages blood vessels inside the ear. Subsequently, leakage of blood from these vessels between the skin and cartilage of the ear flap causes a large, soft, blood-blister to develop.

If left untreated, a mite infestation can lead to further infections with bacteria or yeasts. The infection can also damage the ear drum and enter the inner ear.

To confirm a diagnosis, your veterinarian will look down your cat's ears with an otoscope. The mites can often be seen at this time but your veterinarian may also take a smear of the discharge from the ear and examine that under a microscope.

Treating and Ear Mite Infection

If the problem is caught early enough, then home treatment may be useful. Ask your vet for a good ear cleaning solution that also contains a compound to kill the mites. Fido's Ear Drops or Ilium Ear Drops are two examples. These preparations contain compounds to dissolve the wax, to reduce bacterial infection and to kill the mites that are present. Put the medication into each ear twice daily or as indicated.

Be careful when cleaning your pet's ears. The old rule of  'putting nothing smaller than your elbow' in your pet's ears is still a wise one. Many owners will attempt to clean their pets' ears by using cotton buds. Buds will often ramrod the wax down onto the ear drum. This makes it much more difficult to eliminate the infection, and may lead to a rupture of the ear drum.

To clean the outer part of the ear, a cotton ball, not a bud, moistened with an ear-cleaning solution will do the job well. Only clean the part of the ears that you can see.

When Should A Veterinarian Step In?

However, many ear mite infections are very difficult to treat at home because the cat may not allow you to clean its ears, or because the ears are so badly infected and full of discharge that you cannot clean them properly.

In such cases, your veterinarian will need to help. In severe cases, your veterinarian will need to use a general anaesthetic to enable the ears to be cleaned properly.

Once the ears are clean, a topical medication is used to kill the mites and to eliminate any bacterial or yeast infection that may be present.

What's New in Ear Mite Control?

Nowadays, new medications are available to treat ear mites. Some veterinarians will use injections to clear the infection while others will use commonly available  flea preparations such as Frontline.  Revolution and Advocate are 'spot on the back of the neck' flea control preparation which are also particularly effective against ear mites. These preparation also controls heartworm, and some intestinal worms.

Controlling Ear Mite Infestations

Ear mites are spread from cat to cat by contact. They are more common in young cats and all kittens in a litter can suffer from an ear mite infection. Ear mites can live outside the cat's ear as well. Therefore, good flea control products will help to control mites.

Remembering that ear mites are a contagious condition is important. If you purchase a new kitten or if your purring puss develops an ear malady, be sure to consult with your vet quickly to prevent the 'monster from the deep canal' infecting other cats or dogs in your home.

New vaccines give cats better disease protection

Are you up to date with the new cat vaccinations that are now available or do you have some needling doubts?

The white-coats have been busy looking at new ways of protecting our cats from disease and they have done well with the production of the F5 - a new vaccine for cats.

The well-known F3 vaccine protects cats from the feline enteritis virus and the two viruses that cause cat flu but the F5 goes two steps further by adding protection against the feline leukaemia virus and a bacterium called Chlamydia.

So what are these pathogens and what effects do they have?

Feline Enteritis

Infection with the feline enteritis, which is a brother of the canine parvovirus, is now uncommon, mainly because of the effectiveness of the vaccines that prevent it. The virus is a tough varmint that can live outside a cat's body for some time, thus being easily spread by food bowls, clothing, shoes and bedding that are contaminated with infected droppings.

Initially, it causes a lethargic, dull attitude and the loss of appetite. These effects are followed by frequent vomiting and by profuse diarrhoea. The diarrhoea often contains blood although this is not the only disease in which blood-stained diarrhoea is seen. Abdominal pain occurs and this can be severe. It is common for pregnant cats to abort when infected by this virus or for kittens to be born with abnormalities such as brain damage. Up to 75% of affected cats will die.

Cat Flu

Cat flu is also known as Feline Respiratory Disease or Cat Snuffles. The feline rhinotracheitis virus and the feline calicivirus are well known causes and vaccines against these bugs have been available for some time. Now, the F5 vaccine gives additional protection against Chlamydia psittaci, another organism that causes part of the cat flu disease complex.

Cat flu can affect cats of all ages, from kittens to adults.

Sneezing and coughing is commonly seen with cat flu. A discharge from the nose, conjunctivitis and ulcers on the tongue also occur. The cat loses its appetite and is lethargic. Symptoms of the disease may plague the cat for up to three weeks.

When chlamydia becomes involved, serious conjunctivitis is often seen, especially in young cats that are between 5 and 9 months of age but, thankfully, the new vaccine helps to prevent this malady.

A known complication of cat flu is that even after a cat has recovered, it can still carry the virus and infect others. While cat flu can certainly kill kittens and elderly cats, it does not often kill adult cats.

While vaccinations don't always prevent the disease, they certainly reduce its severity and are worthwhile.

Feline Leukaemia

The F5 vaccine also protects cats against Feline Leukaemia. Unlike leukaemia in humans, we have known for years that the feline disease is caused by a virus.
It is a rare disease, but dangerous when it occurs. The first symptoms usually include a reduction in appetite, reduced activity, weight loss, vomiting and diarrhoea. Reproductive problems occur and it also causes increased susceptibility to other infections. Solid tumours can develop in various parts of the body. Death is slow and usually occurs within three years although some infected cats recover.

Infection is transmitted by saliva, tears, and nasal secretions and by urine. The virus can also be transmitted to other cats when they groom each other, and when items such as food bowls, litter trays and toys are shared.

The Remedies

The best way to prevent these diseases is by vaccination.

You should ask your own veterinarian about a vaccination schedule, but a good guideline is for the first vaccine to be given at six to eight weeks of age, the second vaccination at 12 to 14 weeks, and the third at 16 to 18 weeks.

Kittens can be difficult to vaccinate effectively because they get immunity from their mothers which may stop the vaccine from working. For this reason, or if your veterinarian considers there is an increased risk of transmission of the disease, he or she may advise revaccination every two to three weeks.

Your vet will also help you to decide whether the F3 or the new F5 vaccine is the best choice for your cat.

Look at your cat.  Do you have a needling worry that you've neglected something?  Has your puss-cat been vaccinated in the last twelve months?  Oops!!

It's an important consideration because the diseases that the vaccines prevent are dangerous and debilitating and the vaccinations for cat flu especially don't last more than 12 months. Feeling guilty are we?  Don't worry - your vet won't bite!

We can protect cats against the diseases known as Cat Flu, Feline Enteritis and Feline Leukaemia and veterinarians recommend revaccination every 12 months in adult cats.

So what are these diseases and what effects to they have?

Feline Enteritis

Feline enteritis, or Feline Panleucopaenia as it is more correctly known, is caused by the cat version of the parvo virus.  This virus is a tough little varmint.  It can last for a long time outside a cat's body and is easily spread by food bowls, clothing, shoes and bedding that are contaminated with infected droppings.

Initially it causes a lethargic, dull attitude and the loss of any appetite.  This is followed by uncontrollable vomiting and by diarrhoea.  The diarrhoea often contains blood although this is not the only disease in which blood-stained diarrhoea is seen.  Abdominal pain occurs and this can be severe.  It is common for pregnant cats to abort when infected by this virus or for kittens to be born with abnormalities such as brain damage.  Up to 75% of affected cats will die when they get this infection.

Cat Flu

Cat flu is also known as Feline Respiratory Disease or Cat Snuffles.  Several organisms can cause this disease but mostly either the feline rhinotracheitis virus or the feline calicivirus are guilty. 

The disease can affect all ages of cats from kittens onwards.  The coughing or sneezing of a 'carrier cat', that may be unaffected itself, often spreads the disease.

Sneezing and coughing is commonly seen with cat flu.  A discharge from the nose and eyes and ulcers on the tongue also occur.  The cat loses its appetite and is lethargic.  Symptoms of the disease may plague the cat for up to three weeks. 

Even after it has recovered, an infected cat can still carry the virus and infect others.  While cat flu can certainly kill kittens and elderly cats, it does not often kill adult cats.

Feline Leukaemia

Feline Leukaemia is an interesting disease when compared with leukaemia in humans.  In cats, a virus causes it, but this has not been confirmed in humans.

If cats are infected with the feline leukaemia virus, about a third of them remain infected and can therefore pass the disease on to others.  Infection is transmitted by saliva, tears, nasal secretions and by urine.  The virus can also be transmitted to other cats when they groom each other, and when food bowls, litter trays, toys and so on are shared.

The first sign is usually a reduction in appetite.  Depression and weight loss occur as does vomiting and diarrhoea.  Reproductive problems occur and it also causes increased susceptibility to other infections.  Solid tumours can develop in various parts of the body. Death is slow and usually occurs  within three years.

The Remedies

The best way to prevent these diseases is by vaccination.

You should ask your own veterinarian about a vaccination schedule, but a good guideline is that the first vaccine should be given at six to eight weeks of age.  The second vaccination is given at 12 to 14 weeks, and the third at 16 to 18 weeks.

Kittens can be difficult to vaccinate effectively because they get immunity from their mothers which may stop the vaccine from working.  For this reason, or if your veterinarian considers there is an increased risk of transmission of the disease, he or she may advise revaccination every two to three weeks.

If your cat rarely meets other cats, for instance, if it is a house cat only and not allowed in the garden, boosters every six months are advisable.  This is because your cat is not getting its immunity boosted by 'natural exposure' to the virus from other cats but the virus can still be brought into the house on your shoes or clothes.

Does kitty love to eat what you eat?  When you sit down to your meal or are preparing dinner in the kitchen is someone there with a keen eye on what’s on offer?  As much as we all love to make our pets happy and give them something when they so desperately want it, it may not always be in their best interests for us to do so.

Most cats love their food and because they’re so agile they can generally reach a lot more than the canine members of the family.  There are a number of foods that are toxic to cats & should be avoided – not only from their diet but from their reach (just in case).

• Chocolate, coffee, tea, and other caffeine - contain caffeine, theobromine, or theophylline, which can be toxic and affect the heart and nervous system.
• Grapes and raisins - these foods' toxicity has mainly been found in dogs, in quantities of varying amounts but they may also have an adverse affect on cats and are worth avoiding.
• Macadamia nuts - contain an unknown toxin, which can affect the digestive and nervous systems and muscle.
• Milk - although milk is not toxic to cats, it may have adverse effects. Adult cats fed a nutritious diet don't need milk, and many cats are lactose-intolerant, which means that the lactose in milk and milk products produces stomach upset, cramps, and gassiness. If your cat loves milk, and begs for it,  then lactose reduced pet milks are available.
• Mushrooms - mushrooms can contain toxins which may affect multiple systems in the body.
• Onions, Garlic, & Related Root Vegetables (raw, cooked, or powder) - contain a substance which destroys red blood cells in the cat, causing a form of anemia.  Garlic contains a similar substance in a lesser amount.  Cats are more susceptible than dogs.
• Tomatoes, Green (raw Potatoes)  - can cause violent lower gastrointestinal symptoms

As always, if you’re ever in doubt about the health of your pet, consult your veterinarian.

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

A Holistic diet is really a "whole diet" - and a diet where every ingredient performs a function and makes a contribution to your pets overall health.

Eagle Pack are world leaders in Holistic-Natural "whole-health" nutirition.  In the 1980's the family-founded Eagle Pack brand pioneered holistic-natural nutrition.  Their breakthrough formulas were the first to position protein rich meat meals above corn or soy.  They led the trend to better health for your pet through research based holistic supplements that include Prebiotics, Probiotics and Antioxidants.  Eagle Pack ingredients are sourced from human grade suppliers.  Cihcken meal is produced from chickens passed by the USDA; meals are antibiotic-free with no added hormones.  Fruits and vegies are all human grade.

Every ingredient selected for use in the Eagle Pack foods performs a function in theoverall wellness of your pet.  They conduct worldwide research on ingredients to be certain that they make a positive contribution to your pet's health.  If an ingredient is in an Eagle Pack diet it is there for a specific benefit.  Eagle Pack look to offer you and your pet the comfort that comes from good nutrition.  In their formulas and thei philosophy, they look to earn your trust.

An analysis of each of the Eagle Pack Holistic foods that we stock at Pets Unleashed is outlined below for your information:

Holistic Select Chicken Meal & Rice Formula

32% Protein / 20% Fat

• 100% Complete For Kittens And Adult Cats
• Enhanced With 3 Protein Rich Meat Meals:
  Chicken, Anchovy and Sardine Meals
• Omega 3-Rich Fish Meal Oils, Menhaden Fish Oil and Flaxseed For Superior Coat & Skin
• Organic Quinoa
• Features 4 protein-rich meat meals required by these carnivores. We include a farm stand blend of Carrots, Peas, Alfalfa, Blueberries, Apples and Cranberries. Cranberries aid a healthy urinary tract.

Ingredients:
Chicken Meal, Ground Brown Rice, Chicken Fat (Preserved With Natural Mixed Tocopherols), Oatmeal, Anchovy & Sardine Meals, Flaxseed, Dried Egg Product, Tomato Pomace, Natural Chicken Flavor, Menhaden Fish Oil, Carrots, Sun-Cured Alfalfa, Peas, Dried Beet Pulp, Salt, Potassium Chloride, Quinoa (Organic), Taurine, Inulin, Apples, Blueberries, Choline Chloride, Cranberries, Beta-Carotene, Dehydrated Kelp, Glucosamine Hydrochloride, DL-Methionine, Polysaccharide Complexes of Zinc, Iron, Manganese and Copper, Calcium Carbonate, Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin Supplement, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Vitamin A Supplement, Sodium Selenite, Ascorbic Acid, Biotin, Lecithin, Rosemary Extract, Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin Supplement, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Mononitrate, Folic Acid, Vitamin B 12 Supplement, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Potassium Iodide, Phylloquinone and Cobalt Sulfate, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus casei, Enterococcus faecium, B. Subtillus, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus coagulins, Aspergillus oryzae and Aspergillus niger

Guaranteed Analysis:

Crude Protein Min. 32%
Crude Fat Min. 20%
Crude Fiber Max. 2.80%
Moisture Max. 10%
Ash Max. 6.50%
Calcium Min. 1.00%
Phosphorus Min. 0.90%
Magnesium Max. 0.12%
Vitamin A Min. 22,000 IU/kg.
Vitamin E Min. 75 IU/kg.
Taurine Min. 0.17%
Ascorbic Acid Min. 30 mg/kg.
Omega 6 Fatty Acids Min. 3.80%
Omega 3 Fatty Acids Min. 0.60%
Glucosamine Hydrochloride Min. 41 mg/cup
ME  501 kcal/cup  

Holistic Select Duck Meal & Oatmeal Formula

32% Protein / 20% Fat

• For The Normally Active Indoor Adult Cat
• A Unique Protein Source
• Enhanced With Chicken Meal
• Outstanding Taste
• Organic Quinoa

Duck Meal is the primary ingredient in this formula. This hypoallergenic ingredient has no added hormones and is antibiotic free. The formula is enhanced with Chicken Meal and a farm stand blend of Carrots, Peas, Alfalfa, Blueberries, Apples and Cranberries.

Ingredients:
Duck Meal, Ground Brown Rice, Chicken Meal, Chicken Fat (Preserved With Natural Mixed Tocopherols), Oatmeal, Dried Egg Product, Flaxseed, Tomato Pomace, Dried Beet Pulp, Natural Chicken
Flavor, Carrots, Peas, Sun-Cured Alfalfa, Salt, Potassium Chloride, Quinoa (Organic), Blueberries, Apples, Taurine, Inulin, Choline Chloride, Cranberries, Dehydrated Kelp, Beta-Carotene, Glucosamine Hydrochloride, DL-Methionine, Polysaccharide Complexes of Zinc, Iron, Manganese and Copper, Calcium Carbonate, Vitamin E Supplement, Niacin Supplement, Yucca Schidigera Extract, Vitamin A Supplement, Sodium Selenite, Ascorbic Acid, Biotin, Lecithin, Rosemary Extract, Calcium Pantothenate, Riboflavin Supplement, Pyridoxine Hydrochloride, Thiamine Mononitrate, Folic Acid, Vitamin B 12 Supplement, Vitamin D3 Supplement, Potassium Iodide, Phylloquinone and Cobalt Sulfate, Lactobacillus acidophilus, Lactobacillus casei, Enterococcus faecium, B. Subtillus, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus coagulins, Aspergillus oryzae and Aspergillus niger.

Guaranteed Analysis:

Crude Protein Min. 32%
Crude Fat Min. 20%
Crude Fiber Max. 2.80%
Moisture Max. 10%
Ash Max. 6.50%
Calcium Min. 1.20%
Phosphorus Min. 0.90%
Magnesium Max. 0.13%
Vitamin A Min. 22,000 IU/kg.
Vitamin E Min. 75 IU/kg.
Taurine Min. 0.17%
Ascorbic Acid Min. 30 mg/kg.
Omega 6 Fatty Acids Min. 3.60%
Omega 3 Fatty Acids Min. 0.52%
Glucosamine Hydrochloride Min. 41 mg/cup
ME  490 kcal/cup

We often hear people tell us that their cat does not play with the toys they buy them. Many people think that like people their cats grow out of toys. Whilst our pets mature they still like to keep entertained and amused. Do you ever like to play sport, play computer games, or mind activity games like suduko ? Well our cats are no different. They need both physical and mental stimulation to be happy.

For cats it’s all about finding out what it is that gets their curiosity going. Many people are choosing to keep their cat in either all the time or certainly at night (for both their safety and wildlife safety).It’s worth the effort to try to find out what stimulates them – do they like to chase, hunt, or interact ?

Boredom may be the result of loneliness or inactivity and can lead to a variety of behavioural problems, including, aggression, depression, obsession with food and compulsive grooming.

If you really can’t find play toys that stimulate them consider putting their food in a treat ball or even hiding their dry food around the house – this will not only stimulate them but also exercise them. Also remember to rotate their toys so they remain interested – most of us get bored if we keep playing the same game over and over.

Some Ideas to Make Life More Exciting for our Cats

• Leave on Radio or Television - If your cat is alone in the house during the day leave the radio or television on. This will make them think they have company
• Boxes and Paper Bags – cheap and loads of fun ! Makes sure you cut holes and remove handles etc. Fill with treats for extra fun
• Cat Furniture – there are loads of different types to choose from – short or tall, with sisal /  carpet / velour with hidey holes / ladders / ropes / dangling toys. Cat furniture gives your cats a place to explore, climb and scratch
• Food Trail - leave a trail of treats through your home or hide their food in different spots around the house . You cat will have hours of fun sniffing out their food or treats
• Get another Cat - Consider getting two kittens instead of one. Two cats can keep each other amused and will not need as much human company. If you have an adult cat then introduce them slowly and consider one of the opposite sex (desexed of course)
• Get an Aquarium - Your cat will be fascinated with the fish. Make sure that the top of the tank or bowl is secured with a lid
• Install a Bird Feeder  - in view of the window and a window perch for your cat - this will provide loads of  entertainment for your cat
• Cat Toys - one way to relieve feline boredom, as well as keeping your cat in trim, is to provide plenty of toys. Cat toys do not have to be expensive and there are many different types of cat toys available:
  • Small plastic balls or mice toys
  • Catnip filled soft toys
  • Laser toys (for you and them)
  • Wind-up or battery-operated toys
  • Crinkle Play Bags
  • Treat balls
  • Hand gloves (for you and them)
  • Teaser Wands (for you and them)
  • Door bungarees

With a mix or all of the above, your cat need never be bored again !!

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

They are cute, cuddly, fuzzy, furry little buzz-balls. Kittens are a delight and a joy, but they do need proper care. As there are lots of kittens around at the moment, let's go through the basics of kitten care to make sure you're doing all that is necessary for your purring puss. 

Vaccinations

Your kitten should be vaccinated against the disease Feline Enteritis, and for infections caused by the Feline Rhinotracheitis virus and the Feline Calicivirus. The latter two infections cause Cat Flu. You can also have it vaccinated against Feline Leukaemia.

The first injections are due at six to eight weeks of age. I recommend that it be done again at three months of age, and that the cat flu vaccinations be repeated, again, at four months of age.

Vaccination schedules vary considerably, so please seek the advice of your veterinarian.

Worming

It is common for a kitten to be infected with hookworms and roundworms. These worms are dangerous and can cause bowel disease, anaemia and even death. Tapeworms can also be a problem and, although these worms are not usually as dangerous, your kitten is better off without them.

There are many reliable worming products available, but I advise using a medication that includes the word allwormer. This word shows that the medication will deal with all worms that your kitten can suffer from.

Reinfestation with worms is common. Therefore, I suggest you worm your kitten every two weeks until it is three months of age, then every month until it is six months of age and after that every three months.

Heartworm

We now recognise heartworm disease as a problem for cats. It is extremely difficult to diagnose and even more difficult to treat. If you want to do the best for your kitten, then you should put him or her onto a monthly heartworm preventive.

Ask your veterinarian to discuss this with you when you have your kitten vaccinated.

Coat Care

Regular brushing of your kitten's coat will not only keep it looking slick but will also prevent tangles developing if it has long hair. For Persians and similar long haired cats, daily brushing is essential.

Personally, I use a Zoom Groom to keep my cats' coats looking good. A Zoom Groom is a nylon grooming mitt with soft, gentle teeth that will massage your cat's coat and remove dead hair and tangles. Zoom Grooms are available from your local pet shop.

Skin infections are sometimes a problem in young kittens, especially the fungal infection Ringworm. Watch for any areas of baldness or broken hair and especially if you can see a 'cigarette ash' like dandruff in the kitten's coat.

The ferocious and fearsome Aussie Flea will get your kitten hopping mad. Be sure to use a reliable flea control preparation. There are many suitable products and Advantage and Frontline can be used on kittens, but check with your veterinarian or pet store professional first.

Litter Tray Training

Although you may want your kitten to soil outside, it is still important that you train your kitten to use a litter tray from the start. Most responsible cat owners curfew their cats at night to prevent wildlife predation and to keep their cats safe from other evils. When inside at night, your cat will obviously need a litter tray to prevent any wee problem.

There are many different types of cat litter available - crystals, recycled paper, wood chips and lucerne.

For the privacy conscious puss, you can buy litter tray hutches shop to conceal the tray.

Diet

Your kitten will be reliant on you for all the food it eats. That's a big responsibility, so you need to ensure you are feeding your cat a balanced diet.

I suggest you base the cat's diet on a reliable brand of dry or canned cat food with some fresh food, such as meat, for variety. Many cat owners are moving to the 'super-premium' dry and canned foods that are available from veterinarians and pet shops. These foods are designed for different stages of the cat's life and a specific food is available for kittens.

You should feed your kitten three to four times a day up to three months of age, reducing to twice daily by six months of age. Most cat owners will leave dry food available for their cats during the day.

Desexing

Unless you are a committed and dedicated cat breeder, it is essential that your kitten, be it male or female, is desexed by the time is it six months of age. Your cat will want to breed in spring and summer and it will actively seek likewise-inclined mates at such times. If you have not desexed your kitten, it is bound to catch you out.

Breeding fish is not as dull as it may sound. I remember how paternal I felt when my guppies had puppies - or fry as they are called in the industry. It was all very exciting at first. Then the unmentionable happened -infanticide. The guppies gulped the puppies with glee.

Had I known what to do beforehand, I may have been able to avoid the guppy gobbling. Oh, the memories that haunt me!  Still, breeding fish is a lot of fun and here are some hints to get you started.

How Do Fish Breed?

Fish either produce live young or eggs. Guppies, Swordtails and Mollys, are live bearers and are easy to breed. A female Guppy will give birth every four to six weeks and produce up to thirty young at a time. Live bearers are the easiest to start with for the novice.

For instance, Black Mollys start breeding at 6 months and will breed every 3 weeks from then on. As they will breed for 18 months and produce 30 fry at a time they are good fish to start with. For breeding purposes, have no more than one male per two females otherwise the males with fight.

However, the majority of fish breed from eggs. Even with egg bearers, there is considerable variation in the way in which the eggs are propagated.

Many fish, including Goldfish, Tetras and Zebra fish, are egg scatterers. These fish scatter their eggs spontaneously around the tank as they swim. In a stream or creek, the eggs would be safely swept away but in an aquarium, the eggs are often eaten by the adult fish. This is a common problem with Goldfish. Placing pebbles or marbles in the bottom of the brooder tank provides places for the eggs to rest and develop, out of the way of the adult fish. Goldfish eggs will also stick to plants in the tank. Once the fish has spawned, the plants can be removed to a nursery tank for development. Goldfish eggs take from three to six days to hatch.

Fish such as Cichlids deposit their eggs on broad-leafed plants, on overhanging rocks or in small plant pots placed in the tank. Splashing Tetras will even lay eggs on the leaves of plants just above water level, to protect the eggs from other fish predators. To prevent the eggs drying out, the male constantly splashes the eggs with water by flicking his tail - definitely Sensitive New Age Dads

Siamese Fighting Fish produce a wonderful nest at the water surface from bubbles of saliva and plant debris. Their eggs are deposited in the nest. The male then chases the female off and protects the eggs on his own. Bubble nests are also produced by Gouramies.

The Early Steps

Many fish will breed with no particular intervention from the aquarist. This is especially so with Guppies. For others, a locate a pair that are already showing courting behaviour. A breeding pair is often noticeable because of the interest they show to each other.

To stimulate interest in each other, fish of the opposite sex are often separated prior to mating. This is easily done with a glass partition in the aquarium.  While they can wink and smile at each other coyly, they cannot cavort. To modify the old adage, 'abstinence makes the heart grow stronger' and when the partition is finally removed, the pair are more likely to propagate.

The fish can be brought into peak condition by feeding them good quality food, especially live food, prior to breeding.

For those that lay eggs, careful observation at the time of spawning (egg laying) is important. Male fish often show too much attention to the female and they need to be separated after spawning has occurred. In other cases, the fish and their eggs will need to be separated to prevent the fish from eating the eggs.

Also, some male fish show almost continual interest in females while they attempt to determine if she is receptive. Plants, rocks and other tank 'furniture' provide refuges for the females and the larger the tank, the more room she has to escape. For some species, having many females housed with a small number of males forces the male to share his interests and so no particular female fish is excessively worried.

Feeding the Fry

Do not give food to your new brood until they are able to consume it otherwise the food will decay and pollute the tank.

While the young of live-bearing fish will be able to eat immediately, the young of egg-laying fish often remain immobile for several hours while they feed off the remainder of their yolk-sac. 

Commercially available fry food comes in liquid or powdered form. The size of the particles must be such that the fish can eat it and for this information, you should consult your aquarium shop.

Brine shrimp are commonly fed to new fry but they can also be fed microworms and infusoria. Microworms are cultured from a mixture of corn flour, water and yeast. Infusoria are a collection of ciliated protozoans that can be produced by pouring boiling water over dried hay or green lettuce leaves in a jar. Keep the mixture in a warm, dark place for a few days and a healthy broth of Infusoria will be produced in the scum floating on the top of the mixture. Small quantities of the Infusoria can be added to the brooding tank several times a day.

Fry do best on several feedings a day.  Only small amounts of food should be given as leftover food will spoil and affect the health of the fish.

Breeding fish can be surprisingly rewarding and your local aquarium shop will provide you with all the details.

Do your fish have trouble deciding whether to sink or swim? If so, the advice below will help to keep your fish in fine fettle.

Poor aquarium management is the cause of most problems with aquarium fish. Fish in tanks have a small volume of water in which to swim when compared with their free-living counterparts. Changes in aquarium water conditions can occur rapidly and can be fatal when they do occur.

Overcrowding, overfeeding or, in Queensland, overheating are common causes of illness in fish.

Crowded House

It is important not to treat your fish like canned sardines. Calculating the number of fish you can place in a tank is tricky but as a guideline, in a 60cm by 30 cm tank, you should place no more than twenty-eight Tetras or, for a goldfish tank, sixteen Goldfish.

The type of fish, their size and any aggression that occurs between fish may mean that you can house fewer fish than this formula would dictate.

If you place a good crop of plants in the aquarium, you will increase the carrying capacity. Plants provide hiding places for victimised fish and help to keep the tank environment in good order. Toys and 'buildings' in the tank also help provide hiding holes.

Fish in Hot Water

Maintaining the correct temperature of the tank is most important. High and low temperatures can be deadly but, in Queensland, high temperatures are the main problem.

A thermostatically controlled heater will help to ensure the correct temperature in winter. For goldfish, the tank temperature should about 20 to 22 degrees centigrade and for tropical fish, it should range between 24 and 27 degrees centigrade. The ideal temperature depends more on the type of fish kept. Seek further advice from your aquarium supplier when you purchase your fish.

Sudden changes in the temperature of fish tanks cause problems. This will occur if you introduce a fish into a tank too quickly, without equilibrating the temperatures between the fish and the tank beforehand. It can also occur following power blackouts when the heater stops.

Sudden changes in the temperature of fish tanks cause problems.

In summer, direct sunlight beaming into the tank through a window is a common evil. This causes the tank to heat up quickly and the fish will suffer. Placing the tank in a shaded location is important.

High temperatures reduce the ability of the water to carry oxygen. This results in respiratory difficulties that the fish often show by crowding around the water inlet or pump or by swimming just under the water surface with their mouths open. Affected fish often have blood streaks on their fins and body surfaces.

High temperatures favour the growth of disease-causing organisms and sickness will often result.

Feeding Aquarium Fish

Feeding fish properly is not easy. It needs a conscious degree of self restraint. Of all domestic pets, aquarium fish are probably the most overfed!

You will find many types of fish foods on the market. The flakes of fish foods that are available are ideal for the general feeding of tropical fish, goldfish and marine fish.

Tropical fish and goldfish also relish mosquito larvae, earthworms, green vegetables such as lettuce and silverbeet, and insects such as houseflies and slaters. Never feed fish insects that you have killed with insecticide.

In a well-managed fish tank, a large quantity of food is constantly available in the plants and residual food particles that are present. These particles are too small for one to see but they will keep fish replete for several days.

The golden rule for fish feeding is to give 'little and often'. You should feed only the amount that they can consume in five minutes. Dropping the food in one corner of the tank will help to develop a feeding routine with the fish. They will learn to search that corner for food and a light tap on the corner of the tank will soon teach them when 'tucker time' has arrived.

Feed your fish no more than once a day. In fact, feeding every second day is sufficient and feeding the fish early in the day is better. They will then have time to eat the food before dark. This stops the food decomposing overnight.

If excess food is given, the remainder sinks to the bottom of the tank where it decomposes into a sludgy soup and causes a build up of dangerous ammonia.

If you have spilt excess food into the tank, siphon it off immediately before it scatters.

Fish are fascinating to watch. Their slow, graceful and fluid movements are pacifying. While they are not very cuddly and do not do well curled up on your pillow at night, they are well worth considering for those wanting small, clean, 'easy-care' pets.

A list of things you should consider if you're thinking of getting tropical fish:

• Aquarium Tank : Must be big enough to hold the fish you intend to keep. Consider not only the number of fish but the size they will grow to over time
• Gravel : Gravel should be 4-5cm deep throughout the tank. Ensure the gravel size is suitable for the fish you intend to keep and that the gravel is washed thoroughly before adding to the tank
• Filters : For tropical tanks up to 150L we sell internal filters. Most internal filters can provide filtration in 3 different ways : Mechanical, chemical and bacterial. Of these 3 bacterial filtration is perhaps the most important. “Good bacteria” live on the filter sponge and help break down and recycle waste. Ensure you have the correct size filter for your tank
• Good Bacteria : This comes in the form of products such as “Stress Zyme” or “Aqua Cycle”. These liquids contain live bacteria which are activated when they hit water
• Chlorine Neutralizer or Water Conditioner: This is an absolute must. Chlorine in tap water wil harm your fish unless removed first. Water conditioner contain additional ingredients such as aloe vera and vitamins and helps eliminate ammonia and other toxins
• Fish Food : For most mixed tropical fish a quality tropical flake or tropical pellet mix is recommended. Consider using frozen food once or twice a week for optimum fish health and variety
• Aquarium Heater : A must for tropical fish. Most common tropical fish require a temperature of between 24 and 28 degrees centigrade.
• Thermometer : aquarium thermometers which stick on the inside of the tank are available
• pH Testing Kit : Maintaining the correct acidity of the water is crucial to keeping your fish healthy. A senior pH testing kit with pH UP and pH Down to adjust the pH is highly recommended.
• Tropical Aquarium Salts : These can help buffer PH changes in the tank and help keep your fish healthy. They also replace lost minerals in tap water that would have been available in the wild.
• Fish Net
• Plants/ Ornaments
• Gravel Cleaner : makes the job of cleaning the gravel and changing the water in a larger tank much easier

Note : It is recommended when setting up a new tank that you allow at least 3 days before adding your first fish. This gives the good bacteria time to grow and helps ensure your fish stay healthy once you get them home.  It’s also good practice to add only a couple of fish for the first few days and to then gradually add new fish. Adding too many fish at once can throw the balance of the tank out and lead to disease.

A list of things to get you started with your new goldfish:

• Aquarium Tank : Must be big enough to hold the fish you intend to keep. Consider not only the number of fish but the size they will grow to over time
• Gravel : Gravel should be 4-5cm deep throughout the tank. Ensure the gravel size is suitable for the fish you intend to keep and that the gravel is washed thoroughly before adding to the tank
• Filters : For tanks up to 150L we sell internal filters. Most internal filters provide filtration in 3 different ways : Mechanical, chemical and bacterial. Of these 3, bacterial filtration is perhaps the most important. “Good bacteria” live on the filter sponge and help break down and recycle waste. Ensure you have the correct size filter for your tank
• Good Bacteria : This comes in the form of products such as “Stress Zyme” or “Aqua Cycle”. These liquids contain live bacteria which are activated when they hit water
• Chlorine Neutralizer or Water Conditioner: This is an absolute must. Chlorine in tap water wil harm your fish unless removed first. Water conditioner contain additional ingredients such as aloe vera and vitamins and helps eliminate ammonia and other toxins.
• Fish Food : Either goldfish pellets or goldfish flakes should be used. There are also foods for mixed tanks with bottom feeders and goldfish.  We sell quality foods with higher nutrition values and colour enhancers than cheaper varieties available elsewhere. Consider using frozen food once or twice a week for optimum fish health.
• pH Testing Kit. Maintaining the correct acidity of the water is crucial to keeping your fish healthy. A senior pH testing kit with pH UP and pH Down to adjust the pH is highly recommended.
• Goldfish Aquarium Salts : These can help buffer PH changes in the tank and help keep your fish healthy. They also replace lost minerals in tap water that would have been available in the wild.
• Fish Net : the only way to safely move your goldfish to another container for the big cleaning jobs
• Plants/ Ornaments : great for providing shelter and places to hide as well as making the tank look natrual and inviting
• Gravel Cleaner : makes the job of cleaning the gravel and changing the water in a larger tank much easier.

Note : It is recommended when setting up a new tank that you allow at least 3 days before adding your first fish. This gives the good bacteria time to grow and helps ensure your fish stay healthy once you get them home.  It’s also good practice to add only a couple of fish for the first few days and to then gradually add new fish. Adding too many fish at once can throw the balance of the tank out and lead to disease.

Siamese Fighters, or Betta's as they are also commonly known, are one of the easiest fish to look after. They're a hardy fish and if you can get a few basic things right, you'll end up with a very happy fish!

Here's the top 4 key tips from us:

1. Water quality - is an essential factor in keeping a healthy & happy fish. Although Betta's are known to survive in poor quality water, regular water changes are still required as they are prone to suffer diseases (such as fin rot) if the water quality is poor. For the Betta tanks we stock in the store, we recommend changing water 25% of the water every 1 or 2 weeks. Remember to use conditioning treatment to remove chlorine and help remove ammonia as well as add additional vitamins & aloe vera to help your fish stay healthy. Betta's like their water with a neutral pH but they can cope with slight variations in either direction and preferably lower rather than higher. A neutral pH is 7.0 and getting a test kit is an excellent idea to keep this on track.
2. Water temperature - Betta's are tropical, fresh water fish which thrive best in warm temperatures. Your Betta will be happy if the water temperature sits anywhere between 18°C and 30°C - but the closer you get to the 18°C mark the less happier he will become. A heater will be required if the water temperature drops below 18°C.
3. The tank - it is true that your Betta will survive in a very small space. However, we recommend a tank large enough for your fish to swim around in so their quality of life and their lifespan is improved. Consider a tank large enough for an ornament or two or a few plants. This will also make your tank look better too.
4. Food - Betta's are carnivorous and can be fed commercial fish food, special 'Betta Pellets' or frozen tubifex worms. Fresh bloodworms also make a suitable treat.

If you're not sure what to do, or you have any problems along the way, come in and pay us a visit and we'll help you try and find the problem. A happy Betta is a healthy Betta!

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

I was against the idea - at first. Sure, I'm a vet and love all creatures great and small but  . . .  a chook as a pet? Then it was all my daughter's teacher's fault. She was the one who decided to let the grade six class learn about chickens, hatching, birth and the cabbage leaf principle and hence two dozen fertilized eggs arrived at the school at exactly the same time that my daughter's blue eyes developed that 'Dad-I-will-die-if-I-don't-have-a-chicken-as-a-pet' look.

So - enter 'Chicky' into the Day household. Chicky is cute. She has personality and character and, apart from toilet-training problems when she goes to sleep on my daughter's bed, she's not a bad pet at all. I am delightfully surprised

Chickens as Pets

So what are chooks like as pets and what are the basic principles of chook parenting?

Chickens are not newcomers to pet ownership. The first movements toward cohabitation of humans and chooks started about 3000 BC, give or take a week or two. This was in India.

I have counted them, and currently there are seven billion chickens in the world which produce  65 billion eggs annually. It's a shame that the majority of these eggs are produced in battery cages, but that's another matter.

Chickens are not expensive pets to keep. Unlike dogs, they don't need to be desexed, don't need elaborate enclosures and you can eat their produce!!

While you can buy fertilised eggs and hatch them, it is a better idea to buy either day old chicks or point-of-lay pullets. Point-of-lay pullets are about 18 weeks of age and are just at 'the point of laying' which usually starts at about 22 to 24 weeks of age.

Personally, I would advise getting day old chicks because it's a lot of fun raising them and they bond much better to humans when exposed to them at this age. Chicky regards my daughter, Cassie, as her mother hen and will follow her everywhere.

Purchase day old chicks from a reputable source. Most poultry suppliers will have vaccinated the chickens you buy against common dangerous diseases and they will be sexed. You will be confident therefore, of getting a female chicken and not a future noisy rooster which Council regulations may prevent you from keeping.

A day old chicken will need to be kept in a warm brooder box, such as a cardboard box, initially. When they are young, chickens are not able to maintain their own body heat easily so an external heat source is needed. A 60-watt light bulb suspended over their cage will do the trick. Mother Hen Cassie also gave Chicky her own hot water bottle each night! Chicky seemed to enjoy this. This is one Chook that is going to have psychological disturbances later in life!

The temperature of the brooder box should be 35 degrees centigrade at first, and should then reduce to 30 degrees over the first seven days. After four weeks they will be able to cope with temperatures around the 18 to 20-degree mark. Allow your chicks freedom to move away from, or closer to, the heat source so that they can choose their  ideal temperature.

Chicken Food

Providing the correct food is important too. Put your day old chicks onto a high protein starter ration in a crumble form.  They should then be changed to a grower ration and, when they are old enough to lay, they should be on calcium rich laying mash or pellets.  Your produce agent will advise you on when to change from one to the other. Poultry also need access to shell grit to help them grind their food in their crop and, when laying eggs, to provide calcium to assist in the laying of well-formed eggs.

As adult birds, they can also be provided with sorghum, cracked corn and oats.

Chickens will enjoy household scraps as they get older, but you should not give them scraps to such an extent that it stops them eating their pellets or mash. They will do well on lettuce, cauliflower, silverbeet and cabbage leaves and on boiled potato peelings, apple cores, rice, pasta and lawn clippings. Don't give them tomato skins, orange or banana peels, rhubarb leaves, raw potato peel or tea leaves.

One thing that has surprised us with Chicky is that she drinks a large amount of water. Water can be provided to young chicks in a shallow dish into which an inverted jar is placed. As they grow, they should be given water through sipper drinkers or a water trough. Be careful that spilled water does not wet the bedding or litter in the bottom of the cage. Be vigilant about their water supply as even a short interruption in water supply will stop egg production for several days.

Taming and training a pet bird is, to say the least, amusing. A bird can be trained to perform so many feats of skill that a clever bird can give new meaning to the phrase 'bird brain'. However, taking your bird's training to the stage where it can talk and perhaps sing like a Pavarotti Parrot is very rewarding! 

Start Early to Train Birds

Start as early as you can. If you have obtained your feather duster when it was just out of the nest, the job will be a lot easier as birds of this age bond so easily to humans. If you are gentle, kind and patient, the bird quickly learns trust and is comfortable when being handled.

In the first few days at home, don't expect the new bird to be too friendly. Allow it time to settle in and to get used to you. Talk to the bird softly and place its cage in an area where it is easier for you to engage the rascal in conversation several times a day.

When you can see Feather Face is accepting your approach, open the door and put your hand inside. Don't go any closer if the bird is scared, but instead, keep your hand still. Remove your hand when the bird settles down rather than trying to get closer to it and thus scaring it again. Your goal is to teach the bird calmness, not fear. By removing your hand when the bird becomes calm, you are encouraging calmness. By going closer to a calm bird and scaring it, you are teaching it to be fearful and distant instead of being calm.

Offer the bird food from your hand.  A millet spray is a useful treat because its length is such that you can keep your hand some distance away. As Feather Face accepts your food offering, you can gradually shorten the millet spray so that your hand is getting closer to the bird. Many cockatiels and parrots also love sunflower seeds, so these can be reserved as special training treats.

Teaching a bird to talk is fun. It seems that cockatoos and ring-neck parrots are easier to teach than cockatiels. Budgerigars are also eager talkers with most learning twenty words easily but the record is a budgerigar that learnt more than one thousand words. However, it's the Cockatoo that is the wordsmith of the bird scene.

Training a bird to talk can be done casually or deliberately. Just by having your Feather Face inside your home it will probably pick up several phrases and if you have kids, it will quickly pick up the name of the naughtiest because that's the name which is yelled the loudest and the most!

Talk Training

To deliberately speech train your bird,  schedule two elocution lessons of ten to fifteen minutes each per day. During these times, remove the bird from its cage and eliminate any distractions. Have the bird on a small perch or sitting on your hand.

For its first words try a two-part phrase such as 'Good Morning' or 'G'day'. Repeat this phrase several times over the period. The initial stage of talk may only be a 'peep' or 'squeak' in response to your voice but this is enough.  Give the bird heaps of enthusiastic 'good bird' praise and a food treat every now and then. While it may be monotonous, it is important that you stick to the one word or short phrase at first. To try to teach it too many at once will only confuse it.

It may take a few weeks for your buddy to learn its first word but once it is over this hurdle, the following words should come quickly.

Of course, it is more natural for a bird to whistle than to talk so you could also teach it to repeat some catchy tunes such as 'Old Man Emu'. However, as whistling is easier, the bird may stick to the whistling and never get to be an orator.

Electronic Aids 

Cassettes, CDs and even CD ROMs can help to train a bird to talk but don't over use them because they can be very monotonous. Your bird will enjoy its interaction with you and your praise and cuddles are much more powerful than the inert electronic bird sitter. It would take a very clever CD-ROM to recognise your bird's successes and then to reward it appropriately.

CD's for voice training of birds contain a variety of sounds, voices and whistled tunes. Some also contain famous voices for the bird to mimic such as 'Here's looking at you, kid' by Humphrey Bogart, and Clark Gable's 'Frankly, my dear, I don't give a damn'. Others are even in foreign languages!?!?!  If that's not enough, there is even a CD-ROM with live action videos of birds talking for your own prattling parrot to mimic.

One last warning - think carefully before you teach your bird rude words. A Cockatoo can live for more than sixty years and that's a long time to put up with profanities! But a parrot singing Pavarotti - now that's classy!

Chickens make wonderful pets and unlike dogs and cats, you can eat their produce! If your considering getting a few chooks (as they are known affectionately in Australia) for your back yard you need to know how to make a chicken friendly chook house.

If you prefer, you can buy chicken coops from produce agencies around town. Some are wooden cages and others are metal, A-framed coops.

If you are making your own, you can choose between two basic types. One is a deep litter system and the other is a cage enclosure.

A Deep Litter System or a Cage Enclosure

A deep litter system is based on a cage being at ground level, usually on concrete and a deep layer of sawdust, shavings or hay that is cleaned out now and then. The litter absorbs the bird's manure and you can use the mix of manure and sawdust as garden compost.

A cage unit is usually an elevated cage with a mesh floor through which the birds' manure drops to the ground.

While both are suitable for backyard chooks, to me, the deep litter system provides a better lifestyle as it gives a better opportunity for the chooks to scratch and explore.

You can provide an outside run, but as the chickens will scratch the dirt continuously, outside runs soon become devoid of vegetation and then become muddy, wet and unsightly.

If your yard is big enough and your other pets are chook friendly, then allowing your feathered friends to range freely during the day will make for content chooks. They will explore, scratch and cluck contentedly - but it can be a challenge finding their eggs when they start to lay!

The evils for your birds are adverse weather conditions and predators. Your chookery should provide protection from each.

Position the enclosure so that the morning sun will warm it but not so that the chickens will be cooked in the afternoon. If you can place it so that shady trees or other structures provide protection on the west side, this should prevent problems from the afternoon sun.

Size Matters

The size of the enclosure should provide half a square metre of floor space per bird at a minimum, but the bigger it is, the more fun your chooks will have.

The coop should have adequate ventilation plus a draft free area for nesting. Having a chicken mesh front and a partly enclosed back portion with solid side walls is a good combination. To make the coop hygienic and easy to clean, the walls are best made from a non-porous material such as fibro sheeting, marine ply or metal. However, metal sheeting does not provide protection from the heat.

Ensure that the door is big enough to allow easy cleaning of the pen.  The floor should slope towards the door to allow drainage and to make the cleaning of the coop easy.

Roosts and Perches

Chickens seem to enjoy roosts and perches. Allow at least 200mm of perch length per  chicken. Make the perches from timber roughly 75mm x 50mm in dimensions and place them  about 500mm from the floor. Ensure that the perches are not placed above the food or water containers as the containers will become contaminated with chook poop.

They will need nest boxes too. Mount these on the cooler (southern) side of the  enclosure and place them about 600mm from the ground. Provide one nesting box per four to five hens. Nesting boxes should be about 300mm square. It is ideal if you can provide a hinged opening outside the coop, behind the nesting boxes, so that you can retrieve the eggs without disturbing your chooks.

Food and Water Containers

Food and water containers should be placed above the ground level at about the height of the chickens' backs. An automatic waterer is ideal and, for a small number of chickens, you can make your own. Use a plastic 2 litre milk bottle with an opening cut into it about 2mm from the bottom. Cut the top off this bottle and inside place an upturned soft drink bottle with a few holes 2 mm from the neck of the bottle.  Fill the soft drink bottle with water and place it upside down,  inside the milk carton. The water leaks out to the level of the holes you have placed in it.  It is a bit unstable, but I secure it with a wire cradle.

Alternatively water containers and automatic seed dispensers are available from produce stores.

It's fun watching this chook grow and learn. They grow quickly and you can even notice when a chickens voice breaks at just over three months of age. At this stage they no longer cheep like a chick but 'book' like a chook - a very maternal and grown-up sound. Next stage - egg-laying .

What do you know about Battery cages for Poultry? Many folk are in total opposition to the way in which eggs are produced form poultry that are housed in battery cages and there are good reasons for their criticism.

The problem is, of course, related to the dollar. Producing battery laid eggs is the cheapest form of egg production. The eggs are produced in a clean state and diseases are minimised. The costs of collecting the eggs are reduced and the costs of feeding the hens are minimised because most of it is done mechanically.

The chooks though, are not very appreciative.

Given the choice between food delivered by a mechanical auger and that which they can find by scratching around in that 'terrible stuff' called bare earth, I'm sure the chooks would prefer the latter.

Dr Wirth, veterinarian and president of RSPCA Australia, says battery hens are kept in tiny cages with each chook having less than the area of an A4 piece of paper to stand in.

"Research shows the battery cage system causes great frustration to the hens because they cannot perform their normal behaviours - the hen cannot stand properly, preen its feathers, stretch out, flap its wings, lay in nests, perch, dust bathe or socialise. It may have difficulty turning around. Battery cages can also cause serious damage to the feet and claws from the mesh floor and lack of perches. In addition, skeletal and muscle weakness can be caused by restricted movement and lack of exercise," Dr Wirth said.

In short, the scientific evidence indicates that battery hens suffer intensely and continuously throughout their time of close confinement in cages.

Imagine if you were one of the 10.5 million battery-caged hens in Australia. You would be kept for about a year in wire mesh cages which are only 40-cm high. The floor area allocated for you would be 450 cm2.

Is that small? Measure a chicken next time you see one. A standard laying hen is at least 40-cm high when she stands erect and is approximately 45-cm long and 18-cm wide, without her wings extended. Her body space takes therefore takes up an area of about 810 square centimetres. How can you humanely place a bird of this size in a cage that is lower than she is tall and where she would be allocated almost half the space that her body area requires?

Think about becoming a 'convert' to backyard chooks. To chooks busily exploring the backyard is just wonderful. They are always on the go. They scratch around in the compost and leaf mulch dining on grubs, worms and other creepy-crawlies. And they dust bathe. They do this in the most amazing of places getting themselves filthy dirty and gloriously happy. They chatter, cluck and squark all day long and go into an amazing vocal oratory about the meaning of life whenever they have produced an egg. They seem so proud of their efforts.

Three to six chooks will produce enough eggs for the standard family's needs. And when they're too old to lay? Let them remain as pets as a token of thanks for the joy they have given you. Will you eat them? After watching their glorious behaviours, there's as much chance of that as you eating your pet cat or dog.

Eggs can be humanely produced in a commercial facility. The RSPCA asks the Australian public to support alternative systems of egg production.

Dr Wirth says "It is simply up to the Australian public to care enough about the suffering of battery hens to insist on humane egg production."

There are alternatives to battery egg production in the form of barn and free-range housing systems or you can keep your own hens.

Barn laying and free range systems allow hens the freedom to behave naturally and provide them with a suitable environment for laying.

Next time you or your family are buying eggs, for the sake of the millions of laying hens in
Australia, please help the RSPCA to get hens out of battery cages - think before you choose your eggs.

If your parrot is a paranoid feather plucker and resembles a feather duster with an identity crisis then you will want to know what causes feather plucking and what can you do about it. Recent advances in the treatment of this complicated condition are included below.

What Causes Feather Plucking?

Feather plucking can be caused by diseases or by psychological factors.
Diseases implicated include any type of dermatitis. External parasites such as lice and mites can also be relevant. An inadequate diet is often a factor as are diseases of the internal organs, and intestinal parasites particularly Giardia can be the problem.

Recent studies in Australia have determined that skin allergies may have cause feather plucking. Bird vets are doing intradermal skin tests (as doctors do with humans suffering allergies) to determine what environmental and food allergens birds react to.  

Early results show that the fungus, Aspergillus (which often contaminates seeds) could be an important component of the problem. This is supported by the fact that many birds improve when placed onto pelleted diets which not only provide good nutrition, but also eliminate the any contamination with the Aspergillus fungus. In Australia, the Eclectus parrot seems to be particularly sensitive to this fungus. This species is often allergic to sunflower seeds as well.

Psychological problems are a common cause. Peck-order-politics occur when birds are incompatible with their cage mates with the resulting stress causes self-mutilation. Sexual frustration is a common cause too, especially if a bird is living with another that does not consider 'Pretty Polly' to be adequate foreplay!

Boredom is a very common cause. This is especially so if the bird is in a small cage with nothing to entertain it. Feather plucking can also be caused by changes in the bird's environment, if the bird regards the changes as stressful, and by anything that induces fear and some birds also have a Separation Anxiety which occurs when it wants to be with its owners continually.

Feather plucking is a form of self mutilation and many bird experts think it is equivalent to an obsessive-compulsive psychological disorder.

What Can be Done to Reduce Feather Plucking?

If a disease is causing the underlying problem this must be correctly diagnosed and treated if the feather plucking is to be reduced.

Regretfully, while disease can be eliminated, the habit may persist. Your veterinarian should examine your bird to decide if any of the above diseases could be a cause.

If the bird is with others in an aviary, look for incompatibility between it and other birds.
Is your bird's diet adequate? While its ration may be balanced, containing a variety of seeds, you may have a picky parrot that will only eat one type of seed in the mix. Thus, it may not be eating a balanced diet. Look for pelleted diets such as Nutriberries or Avicakes at your local veterinary surgery or pet shop. They are a uniform blend of essential seeds with added vitamins, minerals and carbohydrates, and with minimal levels of the Aspergillus fungus. Birds love them and they provide a balanced diet.

Change the bird's environment too to alleviate boredom. Change the location of the cage and ensure the cage is big enough. If in doubt, make it bigger. Put the cage is a 'busy' location in your home so that household activity stimulates your bird regularly.

Providing toys for the bird is important. Branches of safe native trees placed in the cage are a natural and easy way to provide toys. Your bird will play with these and will rip them to pieces, making a glorious mess in its cage that you will have to clean up - but at least that gives you more interaction time! Corn cobs, fresh peanuts in their shell and even bones are often effective as they give your bird something else to pick. A stainless steel mirror is useful. Provide a hollow log to nest in too.

Some folk have found that leaving a radio or television on is effective in alleviating boredom.

What about trying to discipline your bird when you see it plucking? This is a dangerous territory. The behaviour is very likely to be stress-induced. Adding more stress is likely to worsen the problem.

If you can distract your bird so that it does not realise you are the source of the distraction then you may have effect. Distraction should occur as soon as your bird starts to pluck its feathers. Once distracted, you can enter the scene and praise your bird for not plucking its feathers.

A very useful method of distraction is to use a remote activated door bell available from all hardware stores and supermarkets. Place the door bell next to your bird's cage. Conceal the door bell button in your hand. As soon as your bird plucks, ring the door bell to distract it.

If it stops, wait for a few seconds, then go to the cage and reward this non-plucking behaviour. If you are successful, gradually increase the time between the door chime and your reward for the cessation of the non-plucking behaviour.

If necessary, medication may help. There are a variety of new medications Veterinarians are starting to use for domestic pet behaviours. Some are particularly useful for obsessive compulsive disorders in pets and show promise for feather plucking parrots. For more information, consult your veterinarian.

Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD) is a disease that leads to feather loss and can eventually lead to the bald parrot syndrome. This disease is, to say the least, a nuisance. It affects parrots (Psittacines) of all types but a form of the disease can also affect doves and pigeons. In Budgerigars the disease is sometimes called French Moult.

How to Tell If Your Bird Has Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease

Birds with Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease become bald and look downright ugly. Most people would have seen a parrot with this disease. Often their owners knit them cute 'Cocky' jackets to keep them warm!

You can distinguish between PBFD and normal feather plucking by looking at where the feathers are being lost. If they are missing from the head and crest - an area they cannot get to with their beak to pluck - then it is likely to be Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease.

If your bird has PBFD it will show abnormal feather and beak growth. The feathers look like stubble and are obviously deformed and the beak, too, can be affected. Early in the disease, you may notice that your Parrot produces less powder down - the white 'talcum powder' dust that can be rubbed off the feathers of healthy parrots. It also causes a depression of the bird's immune system and this can lead to the development of other diseases. Ultimately, it causes death although affected birds can live for a long time.

If your bird is affected by this disease, you will probably notice short clubbed feathers. Sometimes the feathers are curled. Feathers in normal birds have a 'sheath' around them when they first grow, but this is soon lost. Birds with PBFD retain this sheath so the feathers, apart from being short, don't grow into a normal feather. You may notice that the feather shafts often break, or that narrowing or pinching of the shafts occurs. The condition worsens with each moult and your bird will usually become progressively balder due to inactivity of its feather follicles.

The beak is often affected too. It is deformed, especially the upper beak, and often overgrown. It usually splits or breaks.

A form of the disease also affects very young parrots. Before any feather abnormality is noticed, they develop diarrhoea, become lethargic, lose weight and die.

There is now a specific DNA test available for the disease. This is a blood test and can be done by your veterinarian who will send the blood sample to a laboratory for diagnosis.

What Can you Do to Help Your Bird if it has PBFD?

Regretfully, there is no specific treatment for the disease at present. Infected birds can live a long life but they do need very good care because they are susceptible to other diseases.
If you have a bird with PBFD you should ensure it lives in a healthy, clean environment, as free from stress as possible. You should ensure you are giving it a good diet, and regular veterinary care is also important.

If the beak is overgrown, it can be carefully trimmed, but you may prefer to leave that job to your veterinarian. Sometimes the deformity of the beak is painful. You should ensure that you see your veterinarian if you feel your bird is suffering. It is important that your Parrots beak is not so deformed that it cannot eat.

Some birds seem to respond, at least for a short while, to Biotin being added to their feed. Your veterinarian can give you more details.

A virus know as a Circovirus causes the disease. Much research is currently underway trying to produce a vaccine to counter this virus, but none is yet available.

The virus is a nuisance as it persists in the environment for a long time and is resistant to most disinfectants. It is readily spread between birds by faeces and feather dust. Parent birds may pass the disease to offspring during feeding and a carrier state - infected and contagious birds which dont show the disease - is thought to exist too.

Any bird with the disease should be isolated from any apparently non-infected bird to stop the spread. However the virus can be transmitted to birds by human attendants where it is carried on clothes, feeding containers and so on. Hygiene is therefore very important.

Its contagious nature makes this a problem disease in an aviary of parrots but it can also make an individual bird very sick. It will certainly shorten its life. If you feel your bird may have this disease, contact your veterinarian or a specialist avian veterinarian for further advice.

The Internet has a wealth of information on this condition. Try searching for 'Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease' using any search tool.

What Causes Scaley Face and Scaley Leg?

Scaley Face is caused by a mite known as either the Scaley Face Mite or the Scaley Leg Mite. In canaries the same mite causes a condition commonly called Tassel-Foot. The mite's scientific name is Cnemidocoptes. Being an arachnid, it is an eight-legged beastie and is the smaller cousin of the spider, the tick and the scorpion. It burrows under the scales of the legs and into the keratin of the bird's beak. However, it can also be found around the vent of birds and on their wing tips.

What Will I See if My Bird is Affected with Scaley Face and Scaley Leg?

When the mite infects budgerigars, the beak will look white, chalky and crusty and will have a honeycomb appearance. The crustiness can spread around the bird's cere (the lump at the base of the beak) and eyes. The crusty, scaley appearance also appears on the legs and sometimes around the vent.

When the mite infects budgerigars, the beak will look white, chalky and crusty and will have a honeycomb appearance.

If the problem is left untreated, the infection in the growing portion of the beak can cause the beak to become permanently deformed.

Canaries generally show a different appearance. Their legs develop thickened areas that look more like corns.

What Will my Vet Do to Treat the Disease?

Your veterinarian will probably confirm the infection by doing a scraping of the affected areas. This is easily done and if the mites are present, they are quite visible under a microscope. Ask your vet for a peek down the microscope as the mites are fascinating critters. They look much like a cross between ET on a bad hair day and a miniature mud crab with attitude!

Your veterinary surgeon will more than likely treat Scaley Face with a product called Ivermectin although other new and easy-to-use preparations are just becoming available.

A few preparations are also available from your pet shop. Most of these preparations are a mixture of benzyl benzoate and paraffin oil. One recommendation is to use such a product daily for three days, and repeat this three times with two weeks between each treatment.

Bird fanciers often treat the condition by rubbing petroleum jelly or paraffin oil on the beak, the cere, and the legs of the budgerigars on a daily basis. While this does not directly kill the mite, it is thought that it causes them to suffocate. Paraffin oil will also help to soften the crusts and to remove them from a bird's face and legs. In addition, the preparations should be placed around the vent and on the wing tips of each bird as the mites sometimes hide in these areas. While this is a time-honoured technique, it is falling into disfavour because it is easy to get the oil onto a bird's feathers.

The oil is very difficult to remove, and sometimes the only method is to wait until new feathers replace the oiled ones.

If you are putting any oily preparation onto the beak be careful that your bird does not swallow or inhale any of it. Use a cotton bud to ensure the oil is placed accurately.

Should a bird's beak be growing abnormally from damage the mites have caused to the cere, trimming of the beak regularly may be needed. This needs to be done carefully as any incorrect trimming could be disastrous. Play it safe and let your veterinarian do this.

Controlling Scaley Face and Leg Mite

The big problem with Scaley Face is not how to treat an individual bird. The concern is how to stop the problem from affecting other 'in contact' birds. Scaley Face is quite contagious and if left untreated, other birds will succumb to the disease. In addition, because the infection only becomes obvious after six to twelve months, it can have quite a toe-hold on a flock of birds before the problem becomes obvious.

The mite spends its whole life cycle on the bird thus it appears to be transmitted between birds by direct contact. It is also likely that some birds are genetically more susceptible to the mite than others. It also seems able to burrow into wooden perches in the cage. Therefore, you should replace perches in an infected cage weekly, using branches from native trees.

Ivermectin can also be used to control Scaley Face in an aviary of birds. Your veterinarian will advise you further on its use and on other procedures to control the problem.

Be sure to be on the lookout for Scaley Face or your beleaguered budgie may never want to show it beak in public again!

Is your bird a picture of health or does it look more like a feather duster with an identity crisis? Recognising when your bird is unwell is important because by the time it looks unwell it can be in serious strife. The following information may help to ensure you  treat your feathered friend quickly should it be suffering from an illness.

Act Quickly If Your Bird is Ill

While illness in a single bird is important, it can be devastating if this bird is part of a colony. Slow diagnosis and treatment of a contagious condition in an aviary is disastrous and the flock can be at risk.

A change in your bird's attitude is, unfortunately, the first thing that may bird fanciers notice. If your bird is sitting at the bottom of its cage and is inactive, perhaps with its feathers fluffed up and its head turned to one side, then you have a seriously ill bird. Birds naturally will hide an illness to prevent themselves being picked on by other birds. Therefore if it looks ill, you that have probably missed many earlier signs. In a case like this, immediate veterinary attention is vital if it's to be saved. 

A sign that you may often miss is a reduction in the bird's body condition. You can best determine this by feeling your bird's breast bone or keel. If the breast bone is prominent and can be felt like a ridge then this shows that the breast muscles on either side have reduced in size. The bird has lost weight and needs attention. This test does rely on your regular handling of the bird to feel its breast bone and is a good reason to ensure that your bird is hand-tame. 

If you have a set of accurate scales, it's a good idea to weigh your bird regularly, just as you would your other pets, or even yourself. Be sure to keep a record of your bird's weight. If you have a colony of birds, purchasing an accurate scale for this purpose is a good idea.  Some birds will sit on a perch placed onto the scales - especially if they have a tasty food reward to eat. To weigh a bird that is not so tame, place it in a light cardboard box or an empty ice cream container for a short moment. 

Examining Your Bird's Droppings  

Regular examination of your bird's droppings is an absorbing pastime but what should you look for? It's not that easy because, unlike other animals, a bird's droppings consist of three components. This is because birds pass their droppings via and opening called a cloaca Faeces, urine and other waste products are mixed as they pass through the cloaca.  

The solid part is the bird's faeces that, just like any other animal's, is composed of the waste from digested food. The second portion is the urine or liquid portion and the third portion consists of urates. Urates are a creamy waste product that the kidney produces and usually appear suspended in the urine or sometimes spiralled around the faecal portion. 

The faecal portion is usually black or dark green, the urine is clear and the urates are white. 

Place a piece of white paper on the bottom of the cage. This will help you to examine the droppings, the amount produced and the regularity of their production. Look for any change in the colour of the faecal, urinary or urate portion of the droppings. If the faecal component becomes soft or watery, this means that diarrhoea is present, although with nectar and fruit-eating birds, the droppings are usually more liquid anyway. If  the volume of  urine increases then kidney disease is one possibility or if the urates increase, then a variety of organ diseases could be the cause. 

Does your bird have swellings around the abdomen or near the cloaca? Perhaps matted droppings are sticking to the feathers around its 'nether regions'. This certainly means you have a sick bird.  

How Much Food Is Your Bird Eating?

Often illnesses are associated with a reduction in the amount of food being eaten. This is very difficult to assess by looking at the seed container. A better way is to become acquainted with how full your bird's crop (near the base of its neck) normally feels. If it's repeatedly empty, then the bird may not be eating well.  

Also look at the way in which your bird is breathing. If it appears to be breathing heavily or if its tail bobs as it breaths, then it's not well. Watch also for changes in the bird's voice and for sneezing or wheezing. Birds with lung disease often 'click' when they breathe too. 

How do the bird's nostrils and eyes look?  If a discharge is present, or one or both eyes appear partly closed or swollen, then the bird is unwell. Crusty lesions around the nostrils and a honeycomb appearance to the beak are also a sign of disease, especially if the feet are also involved.  

Many birds suffer from lumps and growths.  Some are obviously external - perhaps on the skin - while others develop internally, often inside the abdomen. Sometimes these lumps are not dangerous in their own right, but grow to such a size that they impede the bird's movements.  

Don't risk your bird's life by delaying treatment if you suspect your bird is unwell and remember - if your bird looks unwell, it's very ill and needs attention.

Even if the thought of feeding your bird from your own table or plate has never crossed your mind have you given thought to what your bird might be able to help themselves to when your back is turned?  If your bird has freedom inside then there needs to be caution.

• Chocolate - can be harmful or fatal to your pet bird. Chocolate poisoning can affect a bird's digestive system, and ultimately their central nervous system causing seizures and even death.
• Fruit seeds & pips – Apple seeds, cherry pits, peach pits, pear pips, plums pits, and apricot pits contain cyanide, which is poisonous. The fruit of the apple is fine for your bird however be sure to thoroughly cleanse and core any apple pieces to avoid exposure to these toxins.
• Avocado – the skin and pit of this popular fruit have been known to cause cardiac distress and eventual heart failure in pet bird species.  
• Alcohol - although we know you would never dream of offering your pet an alcoholic drink, there have been instances in which free roaming birds suffered from alcohol poisoning through helping themselves to unattended drinks.  Think about securing your bird safely in their cage whenever alcohol is served in your home.
• Mushrooms - are a type of fungus, and have been known to cause digestive upset in companion birds. 
• Tomato Leaves – whilst the fruit is fine as a treat for your bird, the stems, vines, and leaves are highly toxic to your pet. Make sure that to remove any green parts before offering your bird a tomato treat.
• Dried Beans - cooked beans are a favorite treat of many birds, but raw, dry bean mixes can be extremely harmful.  Uncooked beans contain a poison which is very toxic to birds. Make sure to thoroughly cook any beans that you choose to share with your bird.

As always, if you’re ever in doubt about the health of your pet, consult your veterinarian.

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

Ezy Dog leads and harness combinations are perfect for walking, sporting and travelling with your dog.  

What Makes EzyDog Leads & Harnesses So Good?

• EzyDog Leads are great for doggie & pup leash pulling.  All EzyDog leads are made using unique shock absorbing technology and handle styles for a more comfortable walk for both of you. 
• EzyDog Leads have optional extensions available for easy walking of two dogs
• EzyDog Harnesses are the perfect dog harness for travel.  Safely buckle up your dog.  Each harness comes with a swivel car restraint that provides dog safety while travelling in the car
• EzyDog Harnesses provide a no-choke dog harness option.  The chest harness plate sits on the dogs chest and takes the tension away from the neck.
• EzyDog Leads and Harnesses are stylish and look great.  Available in matching Black, Pink, Red & Camo colours

EzyDog Leads

Ezy Dog leads are designed specifically for comfort for both owner and pet.  The shock-absorbing core has elastic properties and it acts between you and your dog to prevent your dogs pull from being direct.  This means there is no jolting action, which can cause shoulder strain and/or back pain for you as well as neck strain for you pet.  Cujo and Mongrel leads are built to handle up to 680kg of tension – now that’s a lot of pull!

The shock-absorbing core makes this lead perfect for use in combination with sports like bike riding, skateboarding, roller-blading and jogging.

The pyramid pull system handle of the Cujo and Mongrel leads also stops the hand from being pinched and evenly distributes the dogs load across the hand.  This handle, in conjunction with the shock-absorbing properties, provides the perfect amount of control and comfort for the strongest pullers.

Neoprene handle options also available.  Great for the jogger who likes to wrap the handle through his/her hands.

The Sparkey leash is suitable for dogs up to 10kg in weight.  Made with the same shock-absorbing materials, the Sparkey handles the smaller pullers with ease.

Extensions can be added on to any EzyDog leash for more length in open areas.  Walking two dogs at once could not be easier with EzyDog – simply add two extensions onto the one leash, leaving one hand free.  These double dog walkers have three swivel points, one at the end of the leash and one on the end of each extension.

This means that even crazy dogs won’t get tangled up!

EzyDog Harnesses

EzyDog Harnesses provide ergonomic control are the best possible support for walking, sporting and travelling dogs.  Now your dog can be safely restrained in your vehicle with the minimum of fuss by using the detachable swiveling car restraint.  Clip on your EzyDog Leash and you’re ready to walk, run or play. 
Made from durable materials with reflective stitching. 

Adjustable for the perfect fit and available in five sizes to suit all breeds:

• X-Small – suit Toy Breeds, Pomeranians, Miniature Terriers
• Small –  suit Cavalier King Charles, Fox Terriers, Maltese Terriers
• Medium – suit Cocker Spaniels, Beagles, Kelpies, Miniature Poodles
• Large – suit Labadors, Border Collis, Boxers, Dalmatians
• X-Large – suit Golden Retrievers Salukis, German Shepherds

Finding the Right Sized Harness

About EzyDog

EzyDog started with the Original Shock Absorbing dog leash established in Australia over 9 years ago.  Building on this ingenuity, they put together a line of unique products with safety, comfort, and durability in mind for both you and your pet. They strive to be at the forefront of innovation for the active dog enthusiast.
At EzyDog they go out of their way to use the highest grade raw materials available. All of their dog leashes are handcrafted and individually spliced with intense attention to detail and quality. As part of their extensive research & development program each product undergoes months of rigorous testing and must survive abuse that destroys most other brands.
EzyDog like to think of themselves as big on:
STRENGTH, DURABILITY, RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT

Holidaying soon? Have you booked your pet's accommodation yet?

With the holiday season only a hop away, those of you who are intending to board your pets in a kennel or cattery need to book now - but how do you prepare your pet and how do you pick a good boarding facility?

While many pet owners worry about how their pets will cope, in reality the majority of pets love the change in routine that boarding provides.

1. How do I pick a good kennel or cattery?

Be sure you inspect the boarding facility you intend using. The kennel or cattery owner should welcome this, although they may request you inspect at specific times that won't disrupt the resident pet's daily routines.

Look for a facility that is well-maintained, clean and odour free. The pens should be in good repair with no sharp protrusions of wire or other objects. Shade is essential.

The pen surfaces should be made of clean and unstained concrete that should be free of cracks that could harbour disease-carrying organisms. For hygiene reasons, the drainage or effluent from one pen should not flow to the next.. A separate grassed exercise area should be available.

2. Will my pet be alone?

Compatible dogs are sometimes housed together. The company of others and the ability to play together often gives the dogs a fun-filled holiday.

You should let the kennel owner know if your dog is not compatible with others and further, due to occupational health and safety issues, a kennel owner may refuse to board a dog that is aggressive.

3. How long before holidays do I need to book?

If you are intending to board your dog over Easter, or any other public holiday period, you should book several months in advance. You could well be disappointed if you leave it to the last moment.

When picking their pets up at the end of a holiday, many dog owners then book their pets for the next holiday period to be certain of a placement.

4. How can I prepare my pet?

One of the best ways of preparing your pet is to board it in the kennel for an occasional day or so in the weeks leading to your holiday. The kennel owner will tell you how your pet coped with the experience.

Up-to-date vaccinations are essential and as vaccines do not work immediately, plan the vaccination at least ten days before the intended boarding date. This is a good time to have the dog wormed and to attend to your other once-a-year pet care duties.

Give the dog a flea bath a day or two before hand, although most kennels owners will still bath your dog on entry as a hygiene precaution.

You should give the kennel owner any medications your pet needs, such as it heartworm medication. Leading up to boarding is a good time to change to the Once-A-Year heartworm protection to ensure there are no mistakes in your pet's heartworm prevention.

Be sure to leave your emergency number and the contact details of your veterinarian.

5. How much will I have to pay?

The fees for boarding range from $15 to $50 per day for dogs and sometimes more for specialist care. Cats are a few dollars cheaper. Holiday surcharges sometimes apply.

If you want individual playtime for your dog, there may be an additional fee for this and most kennels charge a fee for the compulsory bath on entry.

6. Can I take my pet's toys with me?

Kennel owners usually accept the pet's toys but because there is so much else going on, the pet will usually ignore the toys so it won't hurt to leave them behind. Any toys provided should be named.

7. Are there alternatives to boarding kennels?

While most pets enjoy their stay in boarding kennels, some don't. For such pets, there are alternatives.

Engaging a house sitter in a good idea because your pet then stays in its normal home environment, but choose your sitter with care.

Also several organizations, including Don't Fret Pet, offer home-based care for pets. Through such organizations, your dog will be cared for in the home of a pet lover and will be treated like one of their own pets, usually being allowed inside the home with the home owners.

You could also organise for a friend or relative to care for your dog in their own home but be certain their yard is escape-proof.

There are several home-visit services that will visit to care for your pet if you choose to leave it at home but if you use this option, be sure your pet has the personality that will cope with the long hours alone.

One thing you shouldn't do is to leave your pet alone with no-one to care for it. You would be surprised at how many pet owners do just that!

The savage sun is no friend to your pets. Without even realising it, many pet owners make tragic mistakes that just shouldn't happen.

Dogs, tethered animals, aquarium fish, horses and even pet budgies and guinea pigs commonly suffer heat stress because of human error and thoughtlessness. Unlike humans, most animals can't sweat to reduce body heat.  Instead, dogs and cats lose heat by panting but there is a limit as to the amount of heat they can shed in this manner.

Dogs in Hot Cars

The commonest and most idiotic mistake is where a dog dies after being left in a hot car. This should never happen, but it does, time and time again.

The rules are simple. At this time of year, don't leave your dog unattended in your car. Many say 'But I'm only going into the shop for a litre of milk - I'll just be a minute'. The 'just a minute' extends very quickly if the shop is busy or if  you happen to meet a talkative friend.

The type of car you drive is also relevant. Those with large glass areas such as hatchbacks and those that are dark in colour heat up more quickly than other cars. Studies on various makes of popular cars have determined that dark coloured hatchback cars heat up the quickest with temperatures reaching 73 degrees centigrade during testing. This was almost double the outside temperature. In six minutes the temperature of most cars is up to 55 degrees centigrade. If your dog is in the car at this temperature, it will be near death. 

What Dogs are Susceptible to Heat Stroke?

No matter how healthy your dog is, it will not survive if locked in a hot car. However, heatstroke also occurs in other situations, often simply because the weather is hot and humid and people make silly mistakes.

All short nosed breeds of dogs, such as Bull Dogs, Pugs and the Pekingese, are very susceptible to heat stress.  Obese dogs and cats are at risk too, especially 'small fat' dogs. Dogs or cats with poor circulation and dogs with any respiratory disease are also susceptible.

The biggest risk is from a high ambient temperature in association with high humidity and lack of air circulation - exactly what happens in a car.

Jogging Dogs

Like me, do you cringe when you see joggers pounding the pavement with their dogs struggling behind? A dog is so faithful that it will struggle with all its might to keep up. The owner knows when he or she is getting too hot but the faithful dog will ignore those vital messages from its body that say 'stop'.

Why can't the owner see that his or her dog is over exhausted?  The dog's tongue is dangling in a futile attempt to cool its body and the dog is obviously in danger. Dogs like this will often collapse from heat stress. The dog may be man's best friend but who's the mongrel in this relationship?

Back Yard Bungles

Many animals in gardens, yards and paddocks also suffer heat stress. Any animal tethered is at risk. I have seen dogs, goats, cattle and horses die from heat stress when tethered. Animals confined in concrete pens or even birds in cages are also at risk as they cannot escape the unforgiving heat.

If you must tether your animal be absolutely sure that it has ample shade. Many animals twist their tether around a post or tree. They get 'strung up' by the neck as they wind themselves around the post. Therefore, as well as partial asphyxiation (choking), they cook in the sun.

If you have an animal in an enclosure, be sure that you provide shade. An aluminium kennel in the full sun is nothing other than a giant cooker. Kennels must be in the shade and you should insulate the roof and aviaries and bird cages must be in the shade for the whole day.

Consider having a sleeping area under your house for your dog. The house will provide excellent insulation.

Naturally, all animals need water and the bowls should always be placed in the shade. In this heat, two water bowls are needed, should one be overturned.

Emergency Care

Heat stroke causes incredible damage. Affected animals will first show excitation, followed by loss of balance and seizures, as the blood vessels in the brain engorge. A coma will follow. Heart failure is common and many other changes in body organs occur.  The animal is at grave risk.

Emergency first aid is vital and you will need to get to a vet quickly. While you are contacting your vet, cool the animal by placing it in a room temperature (not iced) water bath or by hosing it. Place the wet animal in front of the fan and apply ice packs to its head.

Your veterinarian will need to give medication to control any seizures and to prevent further damage being caused to the animal's brain. He may give it a water enema to reduce its body temperature. It is likely that your pet will be placed onto an intravenous drip. Your vet may also anaesthetise your pet to prevent seizures.

Don't let your pet get hot under the collar in summer. Be cautious and don't let the heat claim your pet as its trophy.

If you have a female pooch or puss-cat and are thinking of having a litter, then you are in for a fun time. Infant puppies and kittens are so cute and it is fascinating to watch them grow. It is also very expensive and exhausting - so be warned!!

Before embarking on such a mission, mark time for a moment and be sure you are going into breeding for the right reasons. There are already excess numbers of puppies and kittens available, as a trip to the local animal shelter will confirm, and allowing your girl to have a litter will not make her 'settle down' or be 'more content'.

If you are thinking of the profits you will make from selling the pups, then you really should reconsider. Responsible breeding of pups and kittens is not a profit making venture!

Assuming that you have covered all these responsible musings, let's tour through your duties as a prospective parent of pups and paediatric puss-cats.

Vaccinations

Prior to mating, you should ensure your pet's vaccinations are up to date. If your pet has not been vaccinated in the last six months, it is worthwhile getting them boosted to ensure the mum is able to pass her immunity to her puppies or kittens.

It is safer to have your pet vaccinated prior to mating but if you have neglected this, be sure to tell your vet your pet is pregnant because some vaccines should not be used in pregnant animals.

It is also a good idea to have you pet wormed prior to mating. Worming should also be undertaken six weeks into the pregnancy and should continue thereafter every two weeks until the puppies are weaned. This is to prevent roundworm infestations of the puppies. Roundworms that are lying dormant in the mother are often reactivated in the last trimester of pregnancy and are then passed onto the puppies or kittens. Worming in pregnancy will stop this problem.

Feeding Pregnant Pets

When feeding your pregnant pooch, you need to provide a diet which is higher in energy than you would normally give. The diet should contain higher levels of protein and fat but should also be cautiously higher in calcium and phosphorous. It should also be a diet that is easy to digest so the nutrients are readily taken into your dog's body from its intestines.

The ideal diet for a pregnant dog is a growth diet - the same that you would provide to a growing puppy. Such diets are readily available from veterinarians and pet shops.

Providing a pregnant dog or cat with additional calcium, above that provided as part of a balanced growth diet, is not necessary or advisable. Excess calcium can cause abnormalities with the puppies and it will not prevent milk fever when the bitch or queen is lactating.

How Much to Feed

In the first six weeks of pregnancy, the puppies do not grow very much so a pregnant dog (or cat) should be fed the same volume of food that you would give before it was pregnant - except that it should be a growth formula. Interestingly, most dogs reduce the amount they eat for a brief period in about the fourth week of pregnancy.

Puppy size increases dramatically in the last trimester of pregnancy and therefore a pregnant dog should progressively receive more food from six weeks of her term onwards so that she is receiving roughly 25% more food by the time the pups are born.

She may not be able to consume this much food in one sitting, so you may need to feed your expectant poochy mum smaller meals, two to three times a day.

When the puppies or kittens are born, the proud mum needs to turn on milk production immediately. This consumes a large amount of energy and therefore, during lactation, a dog and cat will consume much more food than when they are pregnant.

During the first week of lactation a dog with a good size litter will need one and a half times more food than when she was not 'in the family way'. Her food intake will increase to double that of her non-lactating state in the second week and then will triple in the third week. This is often best achieved by allowing the bitch free access to food during lactation.

While she is lactating, feed your dog on a growth or puppy formula as this provides the best form of nutrition for this demanding stage of her motherhood.

Weaning

It is routine to start weaning your pup at about three weeks of age. Most inquisitive pups will sample some of mum's food at three to four weeks of age. This is a good beginning for the weaning process and should be encouraged.

Don't forget to worm your new brood. Worming can be commenced at seven days of age using a syrup and should continue fortnightly until the pups or kittens are three months of age. Vaccinations for the young rascals are due at six weeks of age.

Producing a litter of healthy pups and puss-cats is very rewarding. Be sure their new owners are as devoted to the care of your brood as you are.

If you need a Christmas gift for your favourite pet lover, or even for your favourite pet, the choice this Christmas is bigger that it's ever been.  Use this list to get your Santa's sack bulging.

Groomed for Success

As pet owners, we love the look and feel of our pets. So, why not give your favourite pet person a real treat and have their pet professionally groomed?  See your local grooming parlour for a gift voucher.  Picture this! You could go a step further and have the pet's portrait taken and present the framed photo to the owner for Christmas.

Health Enhancers

Without doubt, one of the best things you can do for a pet-lover is to ensure their pet is healthy and happy. The pet's vet is sure to have a gift voucher that would, for instance, cover the cost of having the pet's teeth cleaned or having the pet vaccinated and while you're at it, ask the vet to add a Once-A-Year heartworm injection into the gift. 

Hamper the Pet's Health

A Christmas hamper for the pampered pet is a wonderful idea and the local pet shop will help you to select the right goodies.

Consider a flea preventative such as Frontline Plus or Advantage and a good quality hypo-allergenic shampoo. For itchy pets, try an oatmeal shampoo. Add some pet toothpaste and a toothbrush,  and a new lead and collar with a whiz-bang, engraved name tag and then throw in a bag of liver treats and you will be forever popular - the pet will like you too!

Better to be Better Behaved

When a pet misbehaves, the turmoil caused by that behaviour is a constant worry for any pet owner.

So, solving that behaviour means a better lifestyle for the pet AND the owner.

Now, you can give your relative or friend the gift of a well-behaved pet! (Or be selfish - give yourself the gift - just don't let anyone else know!)

If your mum or dad or your daughter or son has a problem pet, the best thing you can do is to get personal assistance from Dr Cam to have that problem zapped away.

Leading the Way

If your pet-person has a pooch that is impossible to walk on the lead because the pooch pulls too much, then ask Santa to give the pooch's owner a certificate for an obedience course. A little training goes a long way!

When its being walked, perhaps your friend's dog resembles a cross between as runaway freight train and a turbo-charged yo-yo after a caffeine hit. Well, lead them to success by giving a Gentle Leader as a present. These devices are like a head-halter used on horses. Attach a lead to the Gentle Leader and it operates on the principle that where the head goes, the body must follow.  No more freight-train Fido foibles!

We all know dogs are not allowed to exercise off lead in public but an extendable lead is a good alternative. Extendable leads are similar to a builder's tape measure. The lead is housed in a canister from which it extends when applicable or springs back if the dog needs to be short-leashed when passing pedestrians or other dogs.

Tons of Toys

There is no end to the range of toys you can buy for pets. For puss cats, there are motorised toys a plenty that will keep a cat amused, including the Cat and Mouse. This is a motorised plush mouse that scampers inside a circular maze. 

There are many versions of cat teasers that resemble fishing rods with feathers or plush toys attached to the end of a string, or you can make your own from a bamboo garden stake, piece of cotton and a cork with two feathers attached.

If you haven't yet caught up with the rang of self-feeding dog toys such as the Kong Toy, the Giggle Ball or the Buster Cube then you are really behind the times. Most dogs delight in the puzzle that such toys provide and they are great brain fodder for bored dogs that are left alone during the day. 

Lightening Lightning Fear

If your favourite pet person has a dog with noise fears, I have just the present. My Frightful Noises Audio CD. The CD will make light work of thunder, lightning and fireworks fears.

The audio CD contains more than one hour of sound advice on solving noise fears with dogs. 

Give a Dog A Bone

The simplest things are often the best. So, this Christmas, why not "give your dog a bone"?

A raw meaty bone, such as a piece of ox tail to suit the size of your dog, a marrow bone (cut in half width-ways not lengthways, so the fatty marrow is not available), a chicken wing or neck or a lamb shank, makes an ideal treat. A bone will alleviate boredom and will also help to keep your dog's teeth clean. Chicken wings and necks and the smaller ox tails are ideal for cats too.

A bone doesn't have to be messy. Rawhide chews and pigs' ears are suitable for those pets that bring their bones into the house.

Boredom Blasters

Boredom is the modern scourge of dogs and cats. The Christmas boredom-blaster that tops my list is the Kong Toy. Kongs are cone-shaped, rubber toys that resemble the Michelin man. They also have a hole through the middle into which you can hide a variety of healthy food treats. Give this to your pooch when you leave for work and it will have something to entertain it for the day.

A Roller Ball or Treat Ball is a similar idea. These balls are hollow and have a submarine-like hatch that allows you to place dry food inside the ball. As your pooch pushes the ball around, the dry food falls out and provides an instant reward for your dog's efforts. My hairy hound loves her Treat Ball. Similar versions are also available for cats.

Other boredom-blasters that are new this Christmas include a range of chewable toys which incorporate movement-activated, computerised noises. Some make the sound of a fire engine, others make the sound of a telephone and there are many other stimulating noises to bowl Rover over.

Bored puss-cats have not been forgotten. There are many motor-driven toys that will drive your cat crazy. Some have a plush mouse that circles around inside a chamber. Paw holes allow your cat to attempt to catch the mouse as it circles.

Also examine the range of carpeted climbing frames and scratching poles that are available. With hiding holes and bouncing attachments, these are a cat's dream.

Litter Perfect

Now down to man's business. Guys, if you're the sensitive, new age type, for a really romantic present for your cat-fanatic lady, why not give her a Litter Maid - an automatic, self-cleaning cat litter tray.  So considerate!

While you mind the fur-ball for a short period (when the footy's on), your dearly-beloved will find it is so much easier to clean the litter tray. This intelligent litter tray uses a motion detector (!) knows when the cat has visited and automatically activates a cleaning comb ten minutes later. The comb moves through the clumping cat litter and scoops the soiled bits out and deposits them in a disposable waste container.

Yup - now that you've mastered the toilet seat bit, you can even help with the cat's toilet manners.

Speaking of entertaining a puss-cat, look for a new device called a Kitten Mitten. Being a caring cat owner, I have bought my Hair Ball one and he thinks it is so much better than the old "Mouse-on-a-Rope". A Kitten Mitten is a glove with extended fingers tipped with cat nip bobbles. It resembles a mutant cross between Edward Scissor Hands and a Joker's Hat. Place the mitten on, wiggle your fingers and your cat will become a fascinated flipped-out feline.

Fish and Tips

For those who are considering an aquarium, try the Aquarworld range. These aquariums are much better-looking than the normal square glass tanks. They are made from attractive curved glass, and come complete with hoods, lights, and filtration systems.

Bird-brained Presents

Let's not forget our feathered friends. If you are feeding your birds a standard seed mix, your fussy feather-face may pig out on its favourite seeds, thus selecting a diet that is not balanced.

The answer is to feed your bird prepared food pellets,  much as we do nowadays for dogs and cats. There are many varieties, but the product, Nutriberries, is one variation. This clever product provides an excellent source of nutrition for birds. It combines essential seeds and vitamins, thus providing a balanced diet with each mouthful. The feathered folk think it is wonderful.

Twinkling Teeth for Christmas?

If you have a friend whose pet has 'death breath', give them a big hint by presenting their pet with a toothbrush and toothpaste for Christmas.  Your pet store will have a pet tooth brush that fits over the end of a finger and a tube of toothpaste that goes with it.  The toothpaste comes in unusual flavours like malt and poultry! Essence of postman is the next flavour on the list, especially for Rottweilers and Dobermans!

For cats and dogs, you could buy some enzymatic, dental chew treats.  Rawhide chews are available for dogs and fish base chews for cats.  The enzymes dissolve dental scale and tartar. The texture of the chews is such that they have a mild abrasive action that also helps to clean the teeth.

For pooches and puss cats that are young or for those that are lonely at night why not try a Snuggle Pet?  These plush, furry pets come equipped with a vibrating heart that gives off a comforting and rhythmical beating sound that mimics the heartbeat of a companion.

Happy shopping!

Can you imagine an amputation without an anaesthetic? It sounds horrific but it happens on a daily basis in the dog world.

The procedure is tail docking in infant puppies. If it were done on an adult dog, it could not and would not be done without a full general anaesthetic. However, in a three-day-old pup, unable to struggle effectively and unable to express pain fully, it is done almost without a second thought.

The pup is at the absolute mercy of its breeder who is perpetuating an archaic practice that the experts say is painful and unnecessary.

So why is it done at all?

I must admit to not quite understanding why the procedure still has so much support - and the support is worldwide too. It is a centuries-old tradition. Before the 19th Century, folk thought that docking prevented rabies and that it strengthened the back and increased speed. It was an unusual tax lurk too. Undocked dogs did not attract tax!!

In those times, hunting was more a functional need that a hobbyist's pastime as it is today. Thus, they docked tails to prevent injury. Nowadays, many breeds are traditionally docked because they are 'hunting' or 'working' breeds, although in reality very few still perform this function. Owners who enjoy retrieving and hunting with their dogs claim the need to dock tails still exists. They perceive that a high chance of injury is present when their dogs are 'beating a line' through the bush.

It is a common and everyday occurrence for dogs in Australia to work the bush. On properties throughout Australia, through the harshest of vegetation, Cattle Dogs, Kelpies and Border Collies are doing their duty - and (apart from the Stumpy Tailed Cattle Dog) they all have tails. Tail damage very rarely occurs in these dogs. Interestingly enough, the Stumpy Tailed Cattle Dog is born with a short tail. It does not have to suffer the pain of an infant amputation.

When it comes to bird hunting and retrieving, shoulder to shoulder with their docked cousins we have Labrador and Golden Retrievers and many other gundogs with complete tails too. Is tail damage a common problem with them? It is not. .

The truth is that most docked dogs would not damage their tails if their tails were left intact.

It also seems that some people dock their dog's tails for convenience sake. Many will claim that the tail is a nuisance when the dog is inside as the tail knocks articles off tabletops. Others claim that, because their dogs wag their tails enthusiastically, damage to the tail occurs frequently. The justification is that docking prevents damage to possessions and to the tail itself.

Many breeds of dogs are of similar nature and stature to those typically docked breeds. Breeders dock the tails of Boxers and Doberman Pinschers because of their active nature, but why are the tails of Ridgebacks and Dalmatians - dogs of similar stature and nature - left where they should be? Tails do not cause enough of a problem to justify the procedure.

Many other unusual tales about docking abound, none of which stand up to scrutiny. In reality no practical reason exists for tail docking. It is done only because the breed standards state that is the way a dog is supposed to look.

For me, it is a welfare issue and my main concern is the pain these pups have to endure. There is no doubt that the docking of the tail of a three-day-old pup causes pain.

In years gone by, the procedure was justified because a pup is born blind, deaf, unable to move effectively and because it has poorly developed nerves. The assumption therefore is that it could not sense enough pain to warrant concern about tail docking.

It is now recognised world wide that a puppy feels at least as much pain as an adult dog. The problem facing a pup is that, because it cannot express pain as well and an adult dog, we perceive that it does not feel pain.

When pain is felt, is it the result of nerve impulses going to the brain. The pain-transmitting nerve impulses can be reduced in intensity by a second group of 'inhibitory nerves'. These 'inhibitory nerves' reduce the severity of the 'pain message'. This process works well in adult humans and animals to reduce pain sensation. However in puppies, the pain inhibitory pathways are not well developed. So, instead of not feeling as much pain as an adult animal, a pup is likely to feel more pain. The pup is an innocent victim as it cannot express the pain it is feeling.

In the United Kingdom tail docking is a criminal offence if carried out by a lay person. The Australian Veterinary Association considers cosmetic tail docking as unnecessary and unjustifiable and considers it detrimental to the animal's welfare. It recommends that the Kennel Control Councils in Australia phase tail docking requirements out of breed standards. It also recommends that State and Federal authorities and animal welfare organisations declare tail docking to be an illegal act.

Naturally, the RSPCA does not support tail docking either.

Dog breeders- it is time to face the facts! Tail docking is painful and unnecessary. It is entirely a cosmetic procedure and is of no advantage to the dog. Breeders, please lead the way in reform by refusing to dock the tails of your pups. Those dog lovers who are considering purchasing a breed of pup that is traditionally docked should request that their pup's tail be left on. The more potential buyers ask breeders to provide complete-tailed dogs, the more likely they are to change their ways. Breeders do not want to leave tails on their dogs if they have no confidence that there is a market for such pups.

As the RSPCA states - Tails You Win!

More information:
Tail Docking Ban implemented in Queensland

Can your dog spread disease to you with the greatest of ease? And what about your cat? Are there man-eating microbes oozing from every one of your cat's hair follicles?

There are diseases that you can get from your pet and you need to be cautious. However, in reality, you are much more likely to get sick from kissing your spouse than your dog!

Diseases that you can catch from animals are called zoonotic diseases. Dogs and cats can assault your health with various bacteria, several different types of worms, a fungus or two or even a menagerie of biting and crawling insects.

Bacterial Infections

The bacteria that pets can share with you mostly cause abdominal upsets. These can vary from diarrhoea and vomiting through to abdominal pain and fever. One bacterium, Campylobacter, can cause protracted gastroenteritis with quite severe abdominal pain which can go on for some time. Salmonellosis is another zoonotic disease that also causes illness in humans. It's more commonly contracted from birds and only rarely from other pets but it can occur.  

Can Worms in Pets cause Humans Problems?

Can dog and cat worms infect humans?  Yes, but they can be easily prevented.  Some interesting effects occur when animal worms get inside humans. The first is a condition called cutaneous larva migrans, also known by its grizzly, descriptive nickname of 'creeping eruptions'. This is caused by the dog or cat hookworm larvae which burrow through the skin to enter the body of pets and, occasionally, of humans too. In pets, they then travel through to the intestine where they develop into adult worms.

In humans though, the larvae lose their sense of direction and travel under the skin instead. There they cause the development of snakelike tracts which blister. This usually occurs where the larvae enter the skin, such as on the feet, legs, hands and buttocks. These tracts are very itchy and they develop at the rate of one to two centimetres per day for about fifty days. Hookworm larvae have been associated with corneal opacity but this is very rare.

Gardeners, plumbers and children playing in soil or sand infected with dog or cat faeces are those most at risk, although reports of 'creeping eruptions' in Australia are sparse.

Another similar disease is that called visceral larva migrans. This is caused by migration of  roundworm larvae and is more serious than the 'creeping eruptions' of the hookworm.  The roundworm eggs that are produced by infected puppies and kittens mature in the soil for a few days. When ingested, commonly by children playing in contaminated sandpits, the eggs hatch and the larvae migrate. Again they get lost but this time they lodge in organs within the child's body.

Children from one to four years are mostly affected.  The larvae can affect almost any organ, including the brain, kidneys and eyes. Signs of the condition in children include a fever, cough, loss of appetite and failure to gain weight. Muscle, joint and abdominal pains also occur and more the more serious signs are  neurological disturbances and even blindness. The larvae live for up to a year in humans and the symptoms of the disease can therefore persist for some time.

Even the humble tapeworm can affect human beings. The tapeworm is a segmented worm which is transmitted when a pet owner ingests a dog flea infected with a juvenile form of the worm. Three weeks earlier, the flea would have eaten one of many tapeworm eggs passed from a dog in a tapeworm segment. While these worms can be quite large, they don't cause huge problems and people often don't know they have them. Sometimes people notice they are passing tapeworm segments in their stools and sometimes segments migrate from a person's anus where the segments may cause itching. Diarrhoea and abdominal pain may occur.

The last of the dog worms that can affect humans is the Hydatid worm. This worm can cause the development of large, dangerous cysts inside a person's body but it's almost unheard of in Queensland.

Fungal Infections - Ringworm

Probably the most common zoonotic infection is the fungus known as ringworm. While it's more commonly spread from cats to humans, it can be spread by dogs as well. In humans it causes the development of a small red itchy rash which spreads outwards. The centre of the rash becomes scaley and then heals, while the rim continues to expand.

In pets, it causes hairless patches to develop. In cats and long-haired dogs, the fungus is often difficult to detect. It's easily treated in humans with antifungal creams.

There are many other diseases that your pets can share with you. One, Toxoplasmosis is quite important especially for pregnant women. This will be the subject of a another article on pethealth.com.au.

Tail docking of dogs is now illegal in Queensland. Thank goodness that commonsense has prevailed.  For decades, animal welfare groups and the Australian Veterinary Association have been campaigning for an end to tail docking and, along with tens of thousands of other people, I am delighted.

Tail docking of dogs became illegal on October 27th, 2003.  The only exceptions are if the docking is done by a veterinary surgeon and the veterinarian feels it is in the interests of the dog?s welfare to have its tail docked.

Any person who is not a veterinarian and who docks a dog's tail could face prosecution under the Animal Care and Protection Act. This act provides for fines of up to $7500 for any individual and up to $37,500 for any corporation that is convicted.

When can a tail be docked?

A veterinarian will be able to dock a tail if it is damaged or diseased and the docking is required to effectively treat the condition.  Docking can also be done if it is part of the treatment for a behavioural problem. A veterinarian cannot legally dock a tail if a breeder requests it just because the tail of the breed concerned has been traditionally docked in the past.

When can a tail not be docked?

Docking can no longer be performed where it is for routine, prophylactic or cosmetic purposes, which incorporates the majority of reasons why dog's tails have been docked to date.

The legislation has been particularly implemented on the basis that it is inappropriate to dock a healthy tail on the basis of a possible future event, such as the chance of injury. Many folk who promote docking claim it is done to prevent injury in working dogs. In reality, very few dogs that have their tails docked for presumed work-related reasons are truly involved in work. Most are pet animals. Of those that are involved in legitimate work, the number that suffer injury is so small that there is no justification for the continuation of docking.

The Australian Veterinary Association estimates there are 76 different breeds which are routinely docked, representing tens of thousands of puppies that have been subjected to the amputation and for no justifiable reason.

What is the National Scene?

The ban will become nationwide. The ACT was the first state to ban tail docking when it became illegal there in November 2000. The Queensland Department of Primary Industries gives more information stating that the Primary Industries Ministerial Council (PIMC) agreed in principle in 2002 to a nationally- coordinated ban on the routine docking of dogs for non-therapeutic purposes. Since then, the PIMC has taken the issue further and all states and territories have now agreed to implement a ban on tail docking by 1st April 2004.

What are the Implications for Dog Breeders?

The ban now prevents dog breeders from docking the tails of pups that they breed unless it is done by a veterinarian and is for the treatment of injury, disease or for a behavioural reason. If a breeder continues to dock the tails of their pups, they could face prosecution and substantial fines.

However, it does not stop the dogs being shown because having a docked tail is not a mandatory requirement of any breed standard recognised by the Australian National Kennel Council.

The ban prevents the docking of tails of adult dogs as well as puppies as there is no age limit.

There are no legal issues involved if a breeder has a dog where that dog's tail was docked before October 27th 2003 and there are also no restrictions on selling a dog where its tail was docked before October 27th.

What are the Implications for Pet Owners?

Pet owners are no longer able to request the docking of their dog?s tail if they want this done for appearance' sake. Further, if they consider the tail is likely to be injured in some future event this is still contrary to the legislation.

Should you wish to purchase a dog that has a docked tail, there are no legal issues involved if the tail was docked before the 27th October 2003 but if the tail was docked in Queensland after this date, it is possible that an offence has occurred.

If you arrange for a dog you intend to purchase to have its tail docked, it is likely that you are creating an offence also.

So now, tens of thousands of pups are wagging their tails in glee as they no longer have to fear that unnecessary amputation without an anaesthetic. Finally, the tail ends, as it should.

More information:

Tail docking information

Have you noticed the tumbleweeds of cat and dog hair wafting over the floor lately? It’s a sign that you need to get into grooming to make your pet more comfortable, to prevent your pet’s coat from matting and to stop those fur balls accumulating in every corner of your house.

As we move into spring, you should be grooming your pets on a daily basis to remove their winter coat.   There's a fascinating range of products designed to make grooming easier.

Look for a Zoom Groom. This is a nylon brush with large, soft tongs which will gently strip the dead hair from your pet's coat. Zoom Grooms are available for dogs and cats and come in several forms. An added advantage of the Zoom Groom is that, being nylon, it can also be used to massage shampoos and flea rinses into your pet's coat - just the thing when you are planning your pet's Spring clean!

Also, look for Slicker brushes. These brushes have dual level pins on a cushioned pad with a curved head. The long and short pins work at two levels to remove the matts and the dead hair that make your pet shabby. Slicker brushes are available in different sizes to suit your breed and are suitable for both dogs and cats.

Deshedding tools can also help with the removal of undercoat and loose hair.  The FURminator is the ultimate deshedding tool that is guaranteed to reduce shedding better than any brush, comb or rake.  It comes in three sizes and is suitable for long & short-haired dogs and cats.

For long-haired pets or those with thick hair, now is a good time to have them clipped. You can have them professionally clipped or do it yourself with a set of good quality clippers.  They will feel so much more comfortable after the removal of their hot coat of heat-trapping hair. Clipping will allow them to cool down much easier and will lessen the chance of heat stroke in the coming summer months. Ugly mats of hair that trap foreign bodies and that pinch your pet's skin will also be removed.

While you are at it, consider changing your cat’s diet to a hair-ball control formula to help your cat with any additional fur it may be ingesting while self-grooming.  Remember the saying – ‘the only truly self-cleaning appliance in your house is the cat’!

Are you a forgetful pet owner?

Many of us neglect our once-a-year pet-care jobs because we forget when those duties are due.  Nevertheless, it becomes easier to remember such things when we link them to a particular annual event such as the group of holidays that occur around Easter time. With Easter closely followed by Anzac Day and then Labour Day, times like this can be use to remind us of our yearly duties for our pets.

That way, whenever the Easter eggs are cracking or the Anzac Day last post is piping, you'll remember that you also need to get cracking with your pet's vaccinations, yearly heartworm injection, worming medications and other important pet care tasks.

It's easy to be complacent about pet care because many deadly diseases are so easy to control nowadays. While this complacency can lead to forgetfulness, neglecting tasks, such as your pet's yearly jabs for instance, can have dire consequences.

A Family Affair

So, for a holiday activity, get the kids together so the whole family can take the Pooch and Puss Cat to the local veterinary surgery for their annual check ups. That way, your whole tribe can become immersed in the responsibilities of caring for the family pet.

Ask your vet about the new vaccines that are now available for your dog and cat and be sure you are getting the optimum cover for your pet.

Holidays are also a good time to check on how well you have been getting on with your pet's heartworm protection. Have you been the perfect pet owner and given all the heartworm preventatives your pet needs or have you forgotten some?

If you feel you have missed a few, then a simple heartworm test will show if your dog has a problem and if the worst happens and your pet has a heartworm infection, at least you will know this and your vet can implement treatment before serious problems commence.

If you are forgetting your dog's heartworm pills regularly, perhaps you would be better to change to the once-a-year heartworm preventative so that you can adopt the principle of 'inject and forget'.

Start Young

The principle is to get into the habit of preventative care when you pooch is a pup. When you pup is about three months of age, it can receive its traditional puppy vaccinations and its heartworm injection at the same time.

Your vet will then take on the role of reminding you when your dog's next injections are due.

Intestinal worms are another consideration. Your pets should be dosed with a good-quality intestinal wormer every three months, so the holidays are one of the times you should ear-mark for this task. Use an all-wormer that lays a claim to zapping away all the wrigglers that your dog and cat can harbour.

Tooth Truth

Now is also the time to think about your pet's teeth. Being such a responsible pet owner, I am sure you have been brushing your pet's teeth every day, but just in case you have missed a day or two in the last 365, maybe having Fido's or Felix's teeth cleaned at your vet's clinic is a good idea.

This will probably involve an anaesthetic because, unlike humans, pets don't stay still when their teeth are cleaned, and unlike human patients, pet sometimes bite the dentist! Don't let the anaesthetic concern you - modern anaesthetics are very safe and the risk of an anaesthetic is a drop in the ocean compared with the risk involved if your pet has diseased teeth.

If you are heading into the Easter break, then that heralds the beginning of chilly weather.  This means that the evil fingers of arthritis will be prodding the old bones of senior pets, thus causing pain and discomfort.  There are many new and effective treatments for arthritis that will minimise the pain and return mobility, so no pet should be forced to hobble its way through winter.

Better be Better Behaved

Lastly, with a bit of extra time over the holidays, why not tackle some of your pet's problem behaviours?  That annoying barking behaviour your Pooch is practising or your calamitous cat's claw sharpening behaviour that is wreaking havoc on your furniture could be remedied quite easily.  Having a week or two of holiday time means you can get stuck into the behaviour therapy so that the change occurs much more quickly. All you need is the right advice and your veterinarian can help with that too, or you can contact my office.

And another reminder - don't go overboard feeding your pet on chocolate over Easter and other holiday periods as chocolate can make a pet quite ill.

Spring into action now that spring has sprung to ensure your pet is prepared for the warmer weather.

You will need to groom your pet to remove the remains of its winter coat and you should watch for the hundreds of fleas and ticks that are organising their assault on your pets. These nasty parasites have just stirred after their winterýs rest. Mosquitoes are all a buzz and are ready to spread heartworm disease. Even flies and worms are set to worry your pets.

But, pounce on prevention and you can be done with the cure!

The Hair of the Dog

Have you noticed the tumbleweeds of cat and dog hair wafting over the floor lately? Itýs a sign that you need to get into grooming to make your pet more comfortable and to prevent further fur balls making a mess in your house.

At present, you should be grooming your pets on a daily basis to remove their winter coat.

A visit to your vet or pet shop will reveal a fascinating range of products designed to make grooming easier. Look for a Zoom Groom. This is a nylon brush with large, soft tongs which will gently strip the dead hair from your pet's coat. Zoom Grooms are available for dogs and cats and come in several forms. An added advantage of the Zoom Groom is that, being nylon, it can also be used to massage shampoos and flea rinses into your pet's coat - just the thing when you are planning your pet's Spring clean!

Also, look for Slicker brushes. These brushes have dual level pins on a cushioned pad with a curved head. The long and short pins work at two levels to remove the mats and the dead hair that make your pet shabby. Slicker brushes are available from good pet shops.

For long-haired pets or those with thick hair, now is a good time to have them professionally clipped. They will feel so much more comfortable after the removal of their hot coat of heat-trapping hair. Clipping will allow them to cool down much easier and will lessen the chance of heat stroke in the coming summer months. Ugly mats of hair that trap foreign bodies and that pinch your pet's skin will also be removed 

Hop Into Flea Control

Now that the warm weather is with us, the creeping, crawling, gnashing, nasty, nibbling, bloodsucking, ferocious Aussie flea is on the prowl!

Thankfully, there is a large range of 'state of the art' flea control products available which are effective and safe.

Most pet owners are now turning to the 'spot on the back of the neck' preparations which are easy to use, safe and effective. These products come in small vials that you squeeze onto your pet's neck.

Fleas can also be controlled with tablets.  One popular monthly tablet, available only by prescription, not only controls fleas by stopping flea eggs from hatching, but it includes a once-per-month heartworm preventive and an intestinal wormer which will give most (but not all) intestinal worms a headache. Its flea control effect relies on preventing flea eggs from hatching. 

Capstar is another tablet that kills fleas and does it very quickly.  It has no residual action and is useful if you want to quickly eliminate a new flea infestation before using a long term preventive.

Proban is also a tablet that, given once or twice per week on a continual basis, is effective against fleas and ticks.

When it comes to flea rinses, Permoxin is popular. It can be used weekly on dogs or you can make into a spray for daily use.  Used once per week, it will also control ticks.

Flea shampoos deserve a mention. There are many on the market including Fidoýs Free Itch Shampoo. Such shampoos will clean your pet and will kill fleas present at the time but usually will not give any residual action. 

Make Mosquitos Buzz Off

Mosquitos spread heartworm disease and are much more prevalent in warm weather - not that they are a scarcity in winter either. Many pet owners incorrectly stop their pet's heartworm preventive in the cooler months thinking that their pet is safe. This is not so.

If you have missed a tablet or two, contact your vet and ask for a heartworm test. If it shows that all is clear, place your pooch (and puss cat) onto a heartworm preventive medication. Most dog owners are now using the Once-A-Year heartworm preventives because while other alternatives are very effective, they are also very easy to forget.

Flies are a Worry

While talking about things that won't buzz off, a variety of flies also cause pets problems. Dogs regularly suffer from fly bite dermatitis on, off all places, their ear tips. Similar problems can occur when flies are attracted to discharges that are present around the eyes, mouth and nose of pets. 

The stable fly is the most common culprit. It rasps away at the ears of dogs and causes crusty, bleeding sores to develop.

This problem can be prevented by spraying the dog with Permoxin as needed, or by mixing the Permoxin with Vaseline, baby oil, or a mixture of both, and smearing that onto the dogýs ears.

Various fly repellent ointments are also available.

Around Worm Control 

Lastly, the beginning of a new season is always the best time to ensure your dog and cat has been wormed. Roundworms, hookworms and tapeworms are a problem for dogs and cats during the warmer months and dogs can also be infected with whipworms.

As a routine, adult pets should be wormed every three months. Look for an all-wormer medication as this is likely to eliminate all types of intestinal worms your pets may have.

Having attended to the above, you will not be wondering whether your pet will weather summer weather well!

The Brisbane City Council has now bagged a common dog problem. The council has been delving into dog's business and introduced a new law on 1st September to require dog owners to carry a bag when walking their dogs. Through this law, the council are hoping to encourage dog owners to collect any waste that their pooches produce.

I couldn't agree with this new law more.

Just the other day while taking my son, to school I noted a long trail of doggy do-dos scattered like land mines on the footpath outside his school.  My exclamation was one millisecond too late and my son's foot flattened the fouling whereby the excrement cemented itself between the treads of his joggers. If this wasn't bad enough, the problem was made worse in that he was, at that moment, due to jump on a school bus to go on an excursion where he, his smelly shoe and sixty other students were to be detained in a bus for and hour and a half. 

How irresponsible was that phantom dog owner to allow their pooch to soil the footpath in the first place and especially outside a school?

The problem is of Olympic proportions. In ways known only to them, the researchers at the council have determined that every year the pooches of Brisbane plonk enough produce in public places to fill one and a half Olympic-sized swimming pools.  I'll leave that mental imagery alone, but the council has been dropping the hint for some time that they don?t want Fido's faeces fouling the footpaths and that is why the Brisbane City Council has come up with this new law.

The new law requires that the person in charge of a dog that is in a public place carries a bag or container that is suitable for picking up and disposing of their dog's waste. Indeed you will need to carry two bags because if you have used one, to comply with the law you will need another in reserve.

The law to stoop and scoop pooch poop is not new, having been in force for years, but while this old law is sensible, it is difficult to enforce. The new law will help to bag the problem and will give the council additional power to ensure dog owners are doing the right thing.

Some important facts about the law are:

• The bag law was introduced on the 1st September 2003.
• However, fines for not carrying a suitable bag whilst walking your dog will not apply until the 1st September 2004.  This is to allow dog owners time to get used to carrying bags.
• After 1st September 2004 a fine of $37.50 will be imposed for dog owners who do not carry a bag.
• The fine still applies if you have used and disposed of your bag so you need to carry more than one.
• It is still currently a requirement to pick up after your dog when it defaecates in a public place. The fine for not doing so is $150.

This means that, come next September, if your dog soils in a public place and you are not carrying a bag, you could score a double whammy of $187.50. Maybe the council are into pet's business but that makes the carrying of a bag cheap insurance.

While the smell and appearance of dog faeces on the street is offensive, dog droppings are also unhygienic.  There are risks of infection to people (especially children) because some life-stages of dog worms can cause significant illness in people. Dog faeces also carry bacterial, viral and protozoan infections that could cause illness in people. Thankfully this risk is very small, but it is present.

Suitable bags that you can clip onto your lead are available for purchase at most pet shops, and veterinary clinics. Bags are also available in dispensers at council off-leash parks. However a plastic shopping bag is quite suitable as are the medium sized sandwich bags of the type that have carry handles as the handles allow you to tie the bag closed.

The Brisbane City Council is also holding a series of Dog Breakfasts to promote and explain the new laws it has introduced (hot dogs are not on the menu!) Contact the Brisbane City Council for dates and locations near you.

There are other regulations that relate to the keeping of other animals that the council has also refreshed.

For instance, you can only keep three cats on your property without having a cattery permit. A horse cannot be kept on premises with an area less than 800 square metres (that's just over 31 perches in old measures). With poultry, if you live on premises less than 800 square metres you can house no more than six birds (for example chickens, geese and ducks) and premises more than 800 square metres can hold no more than twenty birds.

At this time of year, toads are rearing their 'oh so ugly' warty heads and causing terrible troubles with our pooches.

Toads are dangerous amphibians. They are a common cause of poisoning in dogs and, less commonly, they poison cats. 

Toads exude a milky white toxin mostly from poison glands behind their eyes, but elsewhere on their body as well. They squeeze this poison onto the surface of their skin when they are under threat.  When treated roughly, they can even squirt the poison up to two metres.

Dogs and cats are poisoned when they mouth the toad or sometimes when the toad's poison gets into their eyes.

The toad's poison is also dangerous to humans and deaths have occurred.  Some adults have even been affected when they absorbed the poison through cuts in their skin after handling a toad.

Keelback Snakes are not susceptible to the venom and Crows and Water Rats have learnt to turn the toad over and eat only the non-poisonous internal organs.

In China, they have used toad poison as an expectorant, a heart stimulant and as a diuretic. It has also been used as a remedy for toothache and sinusitis. In Africa and South America, toad venom has been used on the tips of arrows as a poison.

Toads were introduced into Australia in 1935 to control the cane beetle - a disastrous move as toads have no natural enemies in Australia. Australian Terriers and Fox Terriers also think this was a dumb idea, as they are the breeds most often affected by toad poisoning.

Signs of Toad Poisoning

You need to know what to look for if your pet is poisoned and what to do.

Due to its corrosive and irritant nature, the toad's venom will cause profuse salivation soon after your pet bites it. Pets affected by the irritant venom will paw their mouth due to the pain. If you see your pet drooling and distressed but haven't seen it attack a toad, look at its gums. If they are red and inflamed, toad poisoning is likely.

Vomiting often occurs, especially in cats. Cats also show hindquarter weakness and a fixed trance-like stare. 

If your dog is poisoned, it will usually suffer from seizures or convulsions. These convulsions are often fatal unless you seek urgent veterinary attention.

The poison can also affect the heart of dogs and cats, causing immediate cardiac arrest.

After it has mouthed a toad, it is vital that you remove all trace of the poison from your pets' teeth and gums. Using a jet of water from a hose is an effective way of doing this. . The water jet should be directed forward out of your pet's mouth, not down into its throat.

Rubbing the teeth and gums with a soft rag containing human toothpaste may also help to remove the toxin.

How Can You Protect Your Pets?

Toads are a nocturnal menace. They regularly poison dogs, such as Terriers and working dogs such as Cattle Dogs, Border Collies and Kelpies due to the strong predatory drive such dogs have. However, any dog can become excited enough to chase and mouth a toad.

To prevent the problem, allow your dog outside at night on if you are with it. Take it out on a lead if the need arises.

Place two or three bells on your dog's collar. The bells will not affect the toad, but you will learn to recognise the telltale jingling sound the bells make when your dog is 'suspiciously active'. Immediate investigation when the bells are ringing may save your dog's life.

You can train your dog not to attack toads. Each evening, take your dog out on a lead. Wait for the first sign of your dog showing interest in the toad and command it to 'LEAVE' the toad alone. As you issue this command, turn and lead your dog off in the opposite direction for a few steps and praise your dog if it follows you. Return to the toad again and repeat the process as soon as your dog shown any interest in the toad. Stop the session if your dog it getting too excited.

If your pet is poisoned

If you suspect a  toad has poisoned your pet, you will have a good chance of saving its life with prompt action.

Transport the dog to your vet as quickly and quietly as possible. Keep your pet cool (as they overheat when convulsing) and gently restrained. If it is convulsing, it can damage itself by knocking against objects and it may not recognise you. It may also become quite vicious. Handle an effected animal with extreme caution.

The question 'What are you - a man or a mouse?' has been answered by science. Pet owners will be delighted to know that they are more closely related to dogs than to mice.

After studying 80% the dog genome, the Institute for Genomic Research in Maryland, has determined that dogs and humans share almost 19,000 genes and from this, that dogs are more closely related to humans than the mouse is. Considering that humans have around 30,000 genes, perhaps the dog is no longer 'Man's best friend' but more 'Man's close relative'.  No wonder we love our pooches.

Indeed, the dog could be come man's very-best-and-most-valuable-friend because many canine diseases have human equivalents and studying the canine genetic map could therefore lead to better treatment of human diseases.

What is Gene Mapping?

The science is based on gene mapping. Gene mapping is where the location of each gene in a species' chromosomes is determined.  The collection of genes and chromosomes that are specific for any particular species is known as its genome. Thus, the human genome is made up of approximately 30,000 genes.

Why is gene mapping important?

Gene mapping is important for disease control. By mapping genes, inherited diseases, for instance, could be better understood and thereby controlled.

Taking cancer as an example, it occurs when the DNA in a single cell changes. This change is often called a mutation. If this DNA mutation occurs in a sensitive location on a gene, the cell that contains that gene may grow out of control. It copies itself many times over and cancer tissue is thus formed.

In individuals of any species, cancer-causing genes can be present at birth. If scientists can find the genes that contain the mutations which lead to cancer, then cancer treatment can be revolutionised.

Gene mapping could help to identify individual lines of dogs within a breed that carry cancer-causing genes and breeders could choose not to breed with such dogs. In the same way, humans with gene-borne diseases are being identified.

Over the last twenty years, genes in humans associated with the hereditary diseases cystic fibrosis, some forms of haemophilia, muscular dystrophy, and Huntington's disease have been discovered. Each of these diseases is caused by defects in single genes.  Other diseases are caused by defects in several genes and studying such diseases is much more complex.  Therefore mapping the human and the canine genome, where each gene is clearly identified and understood, will make the control of complex, genetically-based diseases much more successful in both species.

The Human Genome Project

The Humane Genome Project is an international scientific collaboration, the goal of which is to gain a basic understanding of the entire genetic blueprint of human beings.

On the 14th April this year, the successful completion of this project was announced at a cost of over 150 million pounds. This was two years ahead of schedule.

Already, as a result, new genes involved in diseases such as diabetes, leukaemia, eczema and many other human diseases have been discovered.

The Dog Genome Project

The Dog Genome Project is a collaborative study involving scientists at the University of California, the University of Oregon, and the Fred Hutchinson Cancer Research Center.

Its aim is to produce a genetic map of all dog chromosomes and thereby to map the genes that cause disease in dogs and control the appearance and affect behaviour of dog breeds.

There is a huge variation in dog breeds. Consider that a two kilogram Chihuahua and a 100 kilogram Saint Bernard are identical species - they are all Canis familiaris - the domestic dog.  Consider further that the creation of such variation has occurred over such a small evolutionary time span and, further, that it has mostly been driven by the needs and actions of humans. This variation in appearance and behaviour exceeds that of any other species on earth and makes the analysis of the canine genome a fascinating scientific endeavour.  

Dog genetics offers the hope of discovering the genetic basis behind the development and behaviour of many mammalian species.

One major goal of the dog genome project is to develop a map of the genes causing inherited diseases in dogs. It is widely recognized that in many pedigreed dog lines, diseases such as cancer, epilepsy and skeletal malformations, amongst others, run in families.

Where mapping the human genome has led to rapid treatment of human disease, a map of the dog genome will cause similar advances in veterinary medicine. The map will allow the development of more effective breeding practices to eliminate many genetic diseases from certain breeds of dogs but further will certainly help in our understanding of the treatment of many diseases in humans.  So that proves it - dogs are man's best friend.

Follow these links for more information:

Dog Genome Project

Canine Genomic Research

What is the canine genome?

News release NC State University

Winter is on the way, folks! The cold and clammy fingers of winter have started to slide under your pets' collars so here are ten cool tips to warm your pets.

1.  Check up Time

Now is the time to take your pet to your vet for a winter check up. Older pets are especially prone to the adverse effects of winter.

Arthritis commonly disables pets in cold weather with many dogs or cats having difficulty rising after snoozing. Some are stiff and sore for most of the winter. Warmth helps but medications play a vital role in treating arthritis.

2.  Hot Jobs

Don't forget your routine pet care jobs. While fleas are less of a problem in winter, the flea eggs in your home are just waiting for the warmer weather to arrive. Proper flea control preparations continued over winter will prevent these eggs from hatching in the following summer. 

Maintain your pet's heartworm prevention over winter because the mosquitoes that spread heartworm are still present in the cooler months. The Once-a-Year Heartworm Injection will save your pet from your memory lapses.

3.   In Hot Water

To keep a pet comfortable and warm at night, why not give it a hot water bottle?

To be safe, don't use boiling or hot water in case your pet chews the container and burns itself. The bottle must be insulated with a thick covering.

A plastic soft drink container filled with warm water from the tap works well. Cover the container with a towel, a thick sock or the sleeve of an old woollen jumper and your pet will be as warm as toast.

Ordinary rubber hot water bottles are good, and for a touch of class, you can buy some quaint hot water bottle covers in the shapes of tigers, dogs and cats that will make your pet smile.

Microwave-able hot water bottles or Snuggle Heat Pads are also available.

4.  Virtual Buddies

It you want to spoil your pet, why not give it its own warm teddy-bear-equivalent? Look for Snuggle Pets at your local pet shop. A Snuggle Pet is a plush, snuggly cuddle-companion for pets. It has a battery-operated beating heart and comes with a drawstring bag into which you can place a cup of rice that can be heated to give your pet warmth. Snuggle Pets are available from pet shops.

5.  Nice Rice

Speaking about rice, another alternative is to put a cup of rice in an old, thick sock.  Heat the sock in the microwave for a minute or two. The rice is also safe if your pet happens to eat it and the sock won't leak water!  The sock must be of thick fabric to prevent burns.

6.   Heat Packs

At your pet shop, you will also find thermostatically controlled heat pads. These can be placed under a pet's bed and, provided your pet will not chew the electric lead, the pads are a good way of providing soft, gentle heat. 

7.  Hot Beds

Now is a good time to consider buying your pet a warm bed to replace that flea and hair ridden old blanket your pet has had for decades. Beds come in a variety of shapes and sizes from baskets to foam padded "igloos".  Cats and dogs love them.

Now add some state-of-the-art bedding and your pet will really smile.  Machine washable, sheepskin-like materials are readily available. They are warm and absorb moisture if your pet is wet. Two commercially available forms are Dry Bed and Snug Rug.  

8.  Hot Property

If your dog sleeps outside then provide it with a warm kennel. A wooden kennel with an elevated floor is ideal. Place thick bedding in the kennel to add extra warmth.

To make the dog love the kennel, put a plug-in DAP Pheromone diffuser into the kennel. The pheromone will attract the dog to the kennel and make it a peaceful den but be careful where you put the power lead.

If you are in a particularly cold area, move the kennel to the western aspect of the yard where it will be warmer but don't leave it in this location in summer.  

9.  Hot Fashions  

Of course, you can also give your dog or cat the latest in pet coats. A huge range is available from knitted coats all the way through to attractive oilskin coats for the tough Aussie dog. Prices for coats range upwards from $10.00.  

10.  Exercise

Don't forget the value of exercise for you and your pets. It's one of the best ways of warming up and, in this cooler weather, your pet won't have to run the risk of heat stress and that of walking on burning hot bitumen.

Unfortunately a lot us know what it’s like to come home and realise that our pet is not there waiting to greet us.  Or we’ve received the phone call from the local vet or local pet shop advising that “we have your dog Harry here”.  Those of us who are lucky get reunited.  Unfortunately far too many of us don’t.

Let’s look at what we can do to help ourselves be reunited should this happen.

Council Registration

Register you dog or cat with your local council.  This normally involves an annual payment and the issue of a uniquely numbered tag that attaches to your pets collar.  There are also discounts available if your pet is desexed.

As part of the registration process you will provide details that will help to identify your pet, such as breed, colouring, sex and micro-chip number (see below).  Should your pet be found and collected by council, this information will enable them to locate you and reunite you with your pet.

Microchipping

Ensure your pet is micro-chipped.  Microchips are what is known as an RFID device. They are approximately the size of a grain of rice (see photo below) and safe to use on your pets for identification purposes.  A microchip is implanted in an animal with a sterile implantation device in the soft scruff of the neck. It is an extremely common and safe procedure. Some states in Australia now enforce mandatory micro-chipping of all domestic animals.

Pet ID Tags

You can get pet ID tags of all shapes and sizes very easily.  They simply attach to your pets collar.  There are stainless steel and enamel options where your contact details are engraved on the tag.  Other options allow you to write or print your contact details on the tag yourself.  With so many colours and patterns to choose from you’re bound to find one that suits both your tastes.

Take a look at our Red Dingo range of engraved pet tags or Rogz Instant Passport tags

Depending on the size of the tag, include the following details:

• Your pet’s name
• Home Phone
• Mobile Phone

National Pet Register

With each state and territory in Australia pretty much doing their own thing, the National Pet Register offers a national identification service for your pet.

The National Pet Register is Australia's largest not-for profit pet identification and recovery service owned and operated by The Lost Dogs' Home. The National Pet Register is an accredited pet register holding an Australian Veterinary Accreditation.  The National Pet Register's aim is to reduce the number of lost and stray animals by issuing individually numbered ID tags and recording microchip numbers. Our animal recovery service operates 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year.
Visit www.petregister.com.au for more information.

Remember to update your address and contact phone number details everywhere whenever they change.

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

Old dogs and cats often have stiff old bones. These poor pets creak and hobble around the house, struggle up and down stairs and work especially hard to get to their feet in the chilly mornings. Don't assume that this is a normal 'old age thing' and that nothing can be done. The truth is that old pets with arthritis have a new lease on life if treated properly and there is no reason to allow your dog to suffer the pain of 'old bones'.

What Causes Arthritis?

Arthritis is caused by wear and tear on the joints in an animal's body. One in five dogs is affected by arthritis. In dogs more than six years of age, 65% have arthritis. Sometimes the cause is some form of trauma to the joints such as that which occurs with sprains and fractures. For instance, when a dog suffers from a ruptured cruciate ligament in its knee joint, arthritis in the damaged joint is quite common.

In other cases, the joints develop in an abnormal way and arthritis results. Hip dysplasia is a common developmental abnormality where arthritis often results. Normally a dog's hip joint is a smooth 'ball and socket' joint but in hip dysplasia, the ball and socket more closely resemble a square peg in a round hole. As the dog walks, the 'square peg' grinds  away mercilessly at the joint and arthritis develops.

Inflammatory conditions and infections in the joints will also cause arthritis.

Once a joint is injured, a cascade of damaging enzymes is released from the injured tissues. These enzymes cause further damage to the joint structure. The damaging enzymes spread deep into cracks that appear in the joint cartilage, severely damaging the underlying bone. The irritation causes the bone to react aggressively and boney outgrowths and spikes grow into and around the joint, crippling the pet and causing continual pain.

How Will I Know My Pet Has Arthritis?

Arthritis makes movement painful. For this reason, an affected dog or cat will be reluctant to exercise and is less likely to jump, play or chase balls. It is likely to have difficulty climbing stairs and many owners note the dog hesitates before it jumps into the back of the station wagon or utility, whereas previously this was no problem. Sometimes, these early signs are missed or ignored. That's a big mistake because early treatment will really slow down the progression of the disease and will give pets a much better quality of life.

Dogs which have difficulty in rising after resting usually have arthritis. However, after they have struggled to get up, they tend to move more freely after they 'warm up'. Dogs with arthritis  will often lag behind during walks and they may limp. They have a stiff, stilted gait and show an exaggerated swinging of their hips as they walk. Some will yelp with pain when touched. Many dogs will start to soil the house because it is too difficult to go outside and some will become aggressive if they are disturbed or when owners or children try to move them.

Arthritis is common in old cats as well but it is very often missed. Affected cats have problems grooming themselves and look untidy. They walk with little quick back leg movements and often have difficulty using their litter tray accurately as they cannot squat when toileting.

Certainly an animal with arthritis 'loses its spark' and has a reduced quality of life.

How Will My Vet Treat the Arthritis?

Your veterinarian is likely to use medication to reduce the pain and to give your dog back some quality of life.

Modern anti-arthritic medications are called non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS). There is a wide variety available. While approximately 80% of dogs improve with medical treatment, the medications do not cure the arthritis. In many cases, animals affected by arthritis will need to be on medication for the rest of their lives.

Your vet is also likely to advise the use of compounds often called nutraceuticals. A nutraceutical is any substance that is a food or part of a food that provides medical or health benefits, including the prevention and treatment of disease.

Chondroitin and glucosamine are two nutraceuticals that are useful in arthritis as they assist in rebuilding the cartilage of the joint surface.

There are also a variety of prepared dog foods that contain these same nutraceuticals and are therefore very useful in keeping your dog pain free and mobile.

To reduce the stress and strain on your pet's joints, be sure to keep your dog in trim condition. Obesity contributes significantly to the pain arthritic dogs experience so reducing the dog's weight by feeding it a low calorie weight-reducing diet is important. Your local pet store professional or veterinarian will be able to help with that.

Careful exercise is also important but don't overdo it because you will place strain on the damaged joints. One of the complications of arthritis is that the muscles in the affected legs wither away because the pet is too sore to exercise. Gentle exercise will prevent that. Try to involve your dog in 'low impact' exercise such as swimming. If this is not possible, then gentle walking is good. Avoid running and jumping.

In cold weather arthritis is always worse. Make sure your dog has comfortable bedding and a warm place to sleep. Consider a dog coat to keep it comfortable and if it is an outside dog, ensure it has a warm kennel with a raised floor. Don't forget that early treatment for arthritis is the key to pain-free years as your pet ages.

Anal Gland disease is a common and distressing condition in pets and is one of the common causes of 'scooting' behaviour - where a dog or cat drags its derriere along the carpet.

What are Anal Glands?

Anal Glands or Anal Sacs are small glands on either side of your dog's or cat's anus at roughly the four o'clock and eight o'clock positions.

They contain a mucous which has a foul smell - the worse known to mankind and that could well be used for chemical warfare!

The purpose of the secretion produced by the sacs, at least in wild dogs, is to mark territory. Nowadays, some bold and dominant dogs will also mark their territory by rubbing their nether regions on vertical structures such as trees. The function is the same as when a male dog cocks its leg to urinate on a tree but the scent left by anal glands is far stronger.

The sacs are also emptied with the dog is scared or frightened. You may have noted that, when your dog has had a sudden scare, it develops an awful, pungent odour. This is usually because your dog has emptied its anal sacs over its rear end. Cleaning up its rear end (from a distance!) will help to reduce the smell and spraying the product, Bac To Nature, on the area is useful for this purpose.

So why do dogs scoot along on their bottoms?

If you see the scooting behaviour, it  means your dog has some type of irritation around its rear end. This can be due to fleas, an allergic or itchy skin condition, occasionally to worms but mostly the cause is impacted or infected anal sacs.

The swelling and infection hurt. Attempts to pass a motion will cause a lot of pain - so much that the dog may not go to the toilet as often as it should and constipation can occur. The pain will cause your dog to regularly lick its rear end and it may whimper with discomfort.

If your dog's anal sac disease is left untreated, the sacs will often rupture and an abscess will develop around the anus.  Sometimes these are difficult to cure.

What needs to be done to treat Anal Sac Disease?

If your dog has impacted anal sacs, having them properly emptied by your veterinarian may be all you need to do to solve the problem. Your veterinarian will normally do this by placing a gloved finger inside your dog's rectum and gently squeezing the discharge out. Not a pleasant task!

Sometimes the secretion is too thick to squeeze out or it may cause too much pain. In such cases, the sacs have to be cleaned under anaesthetic.

While one cleaning session will often solve the problem, in some cases, repeated cleaning is needed. If this happens with your dog, you would do well to ask for a thorough flush and clean under anaesthetic. As well as flushing the glands, your vet will usually instill an antibiotic ointment into each gland too. Your vet will usually give antibiotic medication  to complete the therapy.

If you are bored and have nothing better to do and you also own a gas mask, it's possible for you to manually empty your dog's anal glands yourself Ask your vet to show you how. Alternatively, most dog groomers will do the job for you as well.

If your dog is suffering from anal sac disease regularly, your veterinarian may suggest surgical removal of the sacs. They are unnecessary and removal does not cause any side effects.

Changing your dog's diet is often useful. The goal is to make your dog's droppings more bulky so that squeezing of the sacs during toileting, is more common. The usual way of doing this is to increase the fibre in your dog's diet by adding bran or grated carrot to its ration.

Diet Considerations

Many dogs with anal sac disease are 'over-round hounds'. Obesity in dogs causes many problems and anal sac disease is just one. Thankfully, prescription diets are available to help you reduce your dog's weight and, as these diets are also high in fibre, they will help with anal sac disease too. Ask for your veterinarian for advice on what food is best.  Personally I advise Hills Prescription Diet r/d for this purpose. Also the Hills Prescription Diet w/d and the Hills Science Diet Light, both of which are high fibre rations, will help.

Have you noticed how pet care is getting easier? When was the last time you heard of a dog dying from distemper or even from heartworm disease? Rampant flea infestations and life-threatening disease from intestinal worms are much rarer than they were a few years ago and its all because pet care is now and easy street. 

A Neck Ahead

One of the recent advances in pet care has been the evolution of the 'spot-on-the-neck' preparations. When they first appeared, they were designed to control adult fleas only and almost overnight, the weekend chore of having to wash your pooch or puss cat in smelly, milky insecticides vanished. While washing dogs is sometimes difficult, washing cats is akin to committing suicide with a thousand cuts. So, Advantage and Frontline were the leaders of this pack and represented a leap forward in easy pet care for dogs and cats. Now there are many similar preparations on the market.

Things change for the better and now Advantage has two big brothers, Advocate and Advantix.

When used once a month, Advocate controls fleas, heartworm, the intestinal worms, roundworm, hookworm and whipworm. It also controls mange, ear mites and lice. 

Advantix from Bayer is also a spot on the back of the neck product however this one is aimed at killing and repelling paralysis ticks and other types of ticks, fleas, flea larvae and it will also repel mosquitoes and sand flies.

Frontline Plus has also been released recently and is a combination preparation that not only kills adult fleas and ticks but also contains a growth regulator that kills flea eggs in the environment before they hatch.

Revolution has joined the easy-street queue with its once-monthly application that controls fleas, heartworm, most intestinal worms, ear mites and mange mites but it doesn't wash the dishes - yet.

To the Heart of a Problem

Heartworm is such a dangerous disease and the treatment of heartworm infested dogs was a major part of veterinary practice a decade or so ago. Nowadays, heartworm infested dogs are not at all common due to the advances in heartworm prevention.

Daily DEC tablets were the first step forward in heartworm prevention, but now that we have monthly heartworm preventatives, the DEC preparations are being superseded. 

Monthly heartworm medications are popular, and because most are in a chewable treat form, they are easy to administer. There are several brands. Heartgard and Proheart are readily available through your veterinary surgeon. Heartgard Plus has the advantage of also controlling roundworm and hookworm infections at the same time. Interceptor is similar, but as well as preventing heartworm disease and controlling roundworms and hookworms, it also controls whipworms.  Sentinel does all that Interceptor does but has the distinct advantage of also controlling fleas with the inclusion of an insect growth regulator that prevents flea eggs from hatching.

As mentioned earlier, Revolution and Advocate also control heartworm disease.

The most recent advance in heartworm prevention is a perfect contender for the Easy Street award. It is the Once-A-Year heartworm injection. For us pet owners who are forgetful, (and that includes me!) the yearly injection is a very convenient way of preventing heartworm disease as it can be given at the same time as your pets' yearly vaccination. I have recently converted to the one-per-year injection for my Imperfect Pooch and as I could never be sure if I had remembered to give her the monthly preparation. Ask your veterinarian for more details.

Jabbing Away

While we are talking about yearly injections, let's not forget about how the dangerous diseases such as distemper and canine hepatitis have been all but eliminated by modern, annual vaccines.

The number of diseases that can be prevented through vaccination is steadily increasing and for cats we now have the F5 vaccine and for dogs the C7. That all this can be achieved with just one visit to the vet, and that the one-a-year heartworm injection can be done at the same time, makes this health-care combo an immediate qualifier for our easy-street list.

The Worm's Turn

In veterinary surgeries, we don't see the typical 'wormy' pups and kittens as often. Pot-bellied, scruffy-coated, diarrhoea-affected pups and kittens are showing the sad, hallmark signs of worm infestations but with the advent of worming medications known as all-wormers, and the monthly heartworm/intestinal worm preparations, such worm-infested pups are now uncommon.

While the monthly heartworm/intestinal worm combinations are a convenient way of eliminating worms each month, none of these control all intestinal worms that can affect dogs and cats, so an all-wormer is still necessary.

Drontal Allwormer is a well know product that will kill all four intestinal worms but Popantal Allwormer, and Canimax  are all excellent.  If you are buying worming preparations from your pet store or supermarket, read the label to be sure the preparation makes a claim to kill round, hook, whip and tape worms in dogs and round, hook and tapeworms in cats.

So, it's true - life was meant to be easy - at least for us pet owners.

Dogs' ears come in a variety of styles. Some stick up, some flop down, some are hairy and some are not.  Nevertheless, they are all prone to ear infections. How do you know if your dog has an ear infection? What can you do at home to treat it and when should you visit your vet?

How Will  I Know My Pet Has an Ear Infection?

When an infection starts, a pet will shake its head occasionally and will scratch its ear. This will often progress to the stage where the pet is obviously  distressed. It may moan as it tries to scratch its ear. It will rub its head along the ground and may walk with its head at an angle.

When you examine the ear, you will notice that the ears have a unpleasant smell. You may also see some discharge in the ear, especially in the ear canal. This discharge may be brown in colour, it may be yellow and look like pus, or it may contain blood which is not something to ignore.

An insect called an ear mite sometimes causes ear infections. These small creepy-crawlies move around inside the ear canal and cause great discomfort. The ears of the dog or cat react to this irritation by pumping out a waxy discharge. This gunk is an ideal soup for bacteria, yeasts and fungi to grow in, further worsening the problem.

Ear infections can also be caused by an injury to the ear or from foreign objects, especially grass seeds, becoming lodged inside the ear canal.

Home treatment

If the problem is caught early enough, then home treatment may be useful, especially if ear mites are the cause.  Ask your vet for a good ear cleaning solution that also contains a compound to kill the mites. Fido's Ear Drops or Ilium Ear Drops are two examples but there are plenty of others too. These preparations contain compounds to dissolve the wax, to reduce bacterial infection and to kill the mites that are present. Put the medication into each ear twice daily or as indicated.

Some of the spot on the neck flea control preparations, notably Advocate (Bayer) and Revolution (Pfizer)  also control ear mites.

Be careful when cleaning your pet's ears. The old rule of 'putting nothing smaller than your elbow' in your pet's ear is still a wise one. Many owners will attempt to clean their pets' ears by using cotton buds. Buds will often ramrod the wax down onto the ear drum. This makes it much more difficult to eliminate the infection, and may lead to a rupture of the ear drum.

To clean the outer part of the ear, a cotton ball, not a bud, moistened with an ear cleaning solution will do well. Only clean the area of the ears that you can see.

Administer a few drops of the cleaning solution to each ear. Massage the area under the ear hole gently and you will usually hear a squelching sound indicating the ear solution is being distributed throughout the ear canal. Unless the problem is advanced, the cleaning solutions will then dissolve the wax.

Now stand back! Your dog or cat will shake its head vigorously after you use the ear cleaner and then the discharge and wax will come out - usually splattering all over you and the ceiling!
For poodles and other animals with hairy ear canals, plucking the hairs from the ear canals may be necessary to allow proper ventilation. Animals with long, heavy, droopy ears, such as Basset Hounds and Cocker Spaniels, need their ears examined regularly. The weight of their ears prevents natural airing and drying of the ear canals.

Most animals do not get ear infections, so, unless you know your pet has a problem, I feel that leaving the ears alone is best, using the old rule 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it!'.  All that is necessary for most is an annual inspection of your pet's ears by your veterinarian, who can clean them then if necessary.

When Should Your Vet Step In?

Typically, letting your veterinarian professionally examine and clean your pet's ears is easier and safer. If the infection is a bad one, it is guaranteed that your pet will need antibiotics or other prescription medications to solve the problem. Ear medications like this are not available over the counter.

Your vet will look into your pet's ears with an otoscope to find out what is causing the problem. If mites are present, they will be visible but, in many cases, bacteria or yeasts without ear mites cause the infection. It can also be due to foreign bodies such as grass seeds.

It may be necessary for your pet to be anaesthetised for the vet to examine its ears correctly. This will also allow proper cleaning and inspection. A sample of the discharge is often taken and this will be examined under the microscope to find out what bugs are present. A swab may also be sent off to a laboratory for a 'culture and sensitivity' test. This is done to detect what bugs are present and what medications are best suited to kill them. As you will know, some bacteria are resistant to certain antibiotics.

Be sure to complete the full course of any ointment that your vet prescribes.

Sometimes, ear infections recur. This can be for a variety of reasons, including the fact that the dog or cat may have a deformed or narrow ear canal or that it may have tumours or growths in the ear. In addition, recurring ear infections often result when the animal has a generalised skin infection. Solving the skin infection will usually eliminate the ear problem.

In cases where a narrowing of the ear canal is present, from a tumour, a long term infection or a natural deformity, the ear canal remains moist and infections are almost impossible to eliminate. Your pet may need an operation to solve this problem. 

In one operation, your vet removes the skin overlying the outer portion of the ear canal so that the ear canal is open to the air. This results in drying of the canal and elimination of the infection.

In another operation, called an ear ablation, your vet will remove the entire cartilage of the ear canal and the hole going down to the ear drum. While this usually solves the problem, sadly,  the animal will be deaf in that ear.

If you feel you pet's ears are causing it problems, don't delay. Ear infections left untreated can be a very difficult problem.

Other relevant links :

Ear Mites in Cats 

On Dear Ears

Chronic renal disease (CRD) is a common condition that can affect all breeds of dogs and cats. It could be a cause of sudden blindness if the blood pressure is elevated. The mean age at diagnosis is about 7 years in dogs and 9 years in cats. However, animals of any age can be affected.

How do I know my pet has renal diseases?

Common clinical signs seen with CRD

• An increase in thirst 
• Very frequent urination 
• Decreased to no appetite 
• Weight loss 
• Drooling with a bad breath 
• Oral ulceration. 
• Listlessness 
• Vomiting 
• Constipation 
• Diarrhoea 
• Sudden onset of blindness is seen in some cases due to the high blood pressure developed
• Seizures or coma can be seen in late stage

If your pet has some of these signs, it will be a good idea to take it to your local veterinarian for a thorough check up.

What causes chronic renal diseases?

Chronic renal failure is a gradual deterioration of kidney function and it happens in all age and breeds. Healthy kidneys are designed to filter and remove waste products from the circulation. When the kidney function is diminished, waste products in the body system start to accumulate, causing the animal to become sick. The exact cause of most cases is often unknown. In young pups and kittens, it may be a familial or congenital problem. Sometimes, viruses, bacteria, or toxins may be the cause.

Geriatric animals, those with high blood calcium and/or potassium levels, high blood pressure, urinary tract infection and diabetes mellitus are more likely to have this disease. 

How can I prevent it?

There are several ways to prevent renal failure. The first one is to make sure that you provide your dog or cat with free access to fresh water at all times. Allow your animal frequent opportunities to urinate. Watch ageing animals for the signs outlined above, and if you see any of these, contact your veterinarian. If the disease is diagnosed early, your animal has a better chance of responding to treatment.

What treatments are available?

Animals with mild renal failure can usually be treated at home with medications and dietary changes. A prescription food with low levels of protein, phosphorous, and sodium should be used, as this reduces the workload on the kidneys. Make sure they have fresh water available to them at all times, and monitor their urine output carefully. Medications can be used to control nausea, a lack of appetite, mineral and electrolyte imbalances, hormonal deficiencies, and high blood pressure. This form of treatment is generally effective in mild cases, under supervision of a veterinarian. More severe cases will require treatment and stabilization in a veterinary hospital with fluids, nutritional support, and medications. These animals can be treated at home when their condition improves. Another option is to perform a renal transplant. This can be done if your animal does not respond to medical treatment. A renal transplant is expensive and has a risk of rejection of the organ or other complications, however it is a very effective treatment if successful.

What Makes Dogs Itch?

Excessive scratching is a common condition with dogs and a frustrating problem for their owners. Many dogs scratch, chew and rub themselves so much there skin becomes bald, red, inflamed and painful. If this is the problem faced by your pet, follow the process below to diagnose and treat the problem.

What to do if your dog is really miserable.

The logical, stepwise process below should help to diagnose the reason your pet is scratching, but it will take some time to do this. This delay may not be in your petýs interesT.

So, if  your dog is miserable and in discomfort or if it has red, inflamed or obviously infected skin, or if you are in any doubt about how serious your dog's skin infection is, you should waste no more time. Please see your veterinarian immediately.

Firstly Flick the Flea

Fleas are the commonest cause of itching. There are two problems caused by fleas.

One is a flea irritation, caused by excessive numbers of fleas.  With a flea irritation, the fleas will be easily seen crawling through your pet's coat.

The other is a flea allergy, where you only need a small number of fleas to cause a big problem. With just one ferocious Aussie Flea, an allergic pet can be scratching for most of the day and you won't even know the flea is there.

So, the first step is to use perfect flea control for at least one month. While the monthly 'spot on the neck' preparations are wonderful for routine flea control, to confirm a diagnosis of a flea irritation or perhaps a flea allergy dermatitis, my suggestion is to use Permoxin Insecticidal Spray daily for two weeks. If the condition is solved with this approach, then fleas are the problem. Follow with a good flea control preparation such as Permoxin every seven days or one of the monthly 'spot on the neck' preparations such as Advocate, Frontline Plus , Revolution or similar products.

Now Bash the Bacteria and other Bugs

Infections are more often a cause of itchy skin than many owners realise.  Bacteria, yeasts and fungi give rise to nasty skin complaints.  When these bugs are present in a dog's skin, the result is often the development of reddened moist skin, excessive scale, odour and the coat often has a greasy feel.

There are very good therapeutic shampoos that are available to help control these problems. Seek the advice of your veterinarian but my suggestion for your itchy pooch is to try the shampoo Malaseb. Wash your dog in this shampoo twice weekly for two weeks in accordance with the directions.

Should an infection be the cause, an improvement should be seen in this time. However, some infections also require antibiotic medications by mouth and for this you will have to see your veterinarian.

Is it Mange?

Mange is a term often misused by pet owners to describe any itchy skin condition and especially fleabite allergic dermatitis. However true mange is a condition caused by a mite that irritates the skin and causes hair loss. The Demodex mite or, more rarely, the Sarcoptes mite, can cause major skin disease which includes hair loss, especially around the face, and the development of secondary infections.

Mange will be difficult for you to diagnose at home. Your veterinarian will do a skin scraping and if the mites are seen, they are usually (but not always) the cause. A variety of medications can be used to treat mange.

Allergy Malady

If you have dutifully ploughed through all of the above and your dog is still scratching then I am sure you feel like pulling your own hair out!

If you are at this point, then your pet may well have an allergy.

Allergic skin disease in pets is a nightmare. By far the commonest allergy is Flea Bite Allergic Dermatitis but this should have been eliminated in the first step. Dogs can be allergic to numerous things including the bites of insects other than fleas, to pollens, plants, moulds, house dust, to the food they are eating.

If the itching is seasonal, for instance in spring and in summer, it is more likely to be an allergy to pollens or to grasses. Wandering Dew and Paspalum are two of many plants that dogs are sensitive or allergic to. If the itching seems to be more intense on the underside of the dog - the part that rubs against plants - then sensitivities like this are more likely.

If this does not fit the picture, then a food allergy could be the next condition to eliminate. This will take some effort and your veterinarian will need to assist you. The goal is to feed a diet that contains protein and carbohydrate sources that your dog has never had before. Venison, rabbit, duck or kangaroo meats are often used as the protein source and rice or potato is often used as the carbohydrate source.

If the scratching still persists, then your dog should be checked for allergies by skin testing or by blood tests. Allergies are treated with anti-inflammatory medications and sometimes with desensitising injections and by removing the source of the allergen if possible. Many dogs with allergic skin disease get some relief when a soothing shampoo, such as oatmeal shampoo, is used.

With skin diseases in pets you are often chasing your own tail trying to find the 'cure'.  If this all sounds too difficult, your veterinarian will be happy to help.

The thought of a large worm-like alien wriggling around inside your heart, growing relentlessly inside your defenceless body by feeding on your own blood and slowly but surely sending you to your maker makes for the beginnings of an award-winning horror movie.

However, when heartworm disease infects our dogs and cats, this is a real-life horror.

It seems that heartworms have been killing pets for centuries. The first published records of the infection in dogs occurred in 1847 and in cats in the 1920's.

As well as dogs and cats, heartworms have also been found in wolves, foxes, coyotes, ferrets, in various big cats and even in bears, horses and in humans. In humans, the disease is mostly discovered when a radiograph has been taken. The difficulty is that the 'coin lesions' caused by the worms resemble lesions caused by lung cancer.

Is Your Pet Likely to have Heartworm Disease?

If your dog or cat is on a heartworm preventive that is being given regularly, then heartworm disease is unlikely.

If your pet is in a heartworm-infected area and if the preventive is not being given regularly then infection is more likely and it is very likely where dogs receive no preventive medication.

In cats, the disease is less common because cats show more resistance to infection. Experimentally, when cats and dogs are deliberately infected with heartworm larvae, the larvae will grow to adult size in up to 25% of cats but in dogs up to 90% are thus affected.

What effects does HWD have on a pet?

In a dog, the disease is usually progressive and infection can be present for months or years before a problem is noticed.

A worsening cough is usually one of the first signs. The dog then becomes inactive and lethargic due to the weakening of its heart. It will not be able to tolerate exercise without coughing.

In severe cases, fluid leaks out of the blood vessels and accumulates in the lungs and the lower part of the abdomen. This fluid gives the dog's abdomen a 'pear-shaped' appearance, resembling the shape of a balloon filled with water.

Sometimes, the animal will suddenly collapse. This is associated with deep, laboured breathing, extreme weakness, the development of a blue appearance to the tongue and paleness of the gums.

In cats, serious disease can be caused with just one worm, whereas in dogs, one or two worms are usually well tolerated. Tragically, the most common sign of the disease in cats is sudden death. Heartworm disease is very difficult to diagnose in cats because the signs seen are vague and can be mimicked by other diseases.

How is Heartworm Disease Diagnosed?

Your veterinarian may suspect heartworm disease if your pet is showing any of the signs mentioned above. He or she will do a cardio-vascular examination which will include listening to your pet s chest with a stethoscope, a process called auscultation.

The next step is usually a blood test but it is likely that X-rays and possibly angiography, (where a contrast dye is injected into your pet's blood stream) will be recommended. Ultrasound is also commonly used.

What treatments are available?

Unless your dog is seriously affected by the disease, treatment is usually successful.

With dogs, your veterinarian is likely to want to kill the adult worms and also the microscopically small young worms, called microfilaria, in your dog's blood stream.

There are various medications available to your veterinarian for this purpose.

With cats, treatment is difficult because the medications used in dogs may not be tolerated by cats. Compared with the infection in dogs, heartworms live for a shorter time in cats, therefore, some cats will recover without treatment. If significant signs of disease are present in a cat, a variety of supportive treatments are used to treat the condition.

How can the heartworm disease be prevented?

Thankfully, preventing heartworm disease is easy and all dogs and cats should be on some form of preventive medication.

There are several choices. A daily heartworm preventive has been available for dogs for many years but has been mostly superseded by modern preventive preparations.

Monthly heartworm medications are popular. Some are available as tablets, some as chews but the most popular monthly products are the 'spot on the back of the neck' preparations. Many of these also help to control intestinal worms.

A recent advance in heartworm prevention is the yearly Once-A-Year Heartworm Prevention injection.

The advantage of this injection is that you only have to remember your dog's heartworm preventive once a year rather than trying to remember it every day or each month. The injection can be given to your pup at three months of age along with its puppy vaccination and from then on it's an easy matter because your vet will usually have a reminder system in place to keep you up-to-date on your pup's future heartworm and vaccination needs. So if your have a better 'forgetory' than a memory your pet's health will not be at risk!

So, at last your heart-felt concerns are gone. The real life horror of heartworm disease and its lethal effects can now be a thing of the past.

For further advice on this topic, start by completing a Behaviour Assessment Form on Dr Cam's Pet Health site - www.pethealth.com.au

The creeping, crawling, gnashing, nasty nibblers are on the march! They're everywhere - in your carpet, between your floorboards even in your garden and the blood thirsty blighters are seeking out your pets too. Yes, the Ferocious Aussie Flea is back - and with a vengeance. Hop into serious flea control to prevent your pet from suffering.

Fleas are miserable little parasites. They suck blood, make animals, especially puppies, anaemic, they spread tapeworm and cause serious skin irritations. Some unlucky pets are also allergic to fleas.

Controlling fleas relies on two separate approaches.  The first is to get rid of fleas from your pets and the second is to get rid of fleas and their eggs from the environment that your pet lives in.

Eliminating Your Pet's Fleas

Thankfully there is a range of 'new vogue' insecticides now on the market that make flea control much easier.

In the past, we have had to rely on fairly toxic insecticides to control fleas. Most pet owners are now turning to products such as Frontline, Advantage, Advocate, Revolution, Advantic and Sentinel for flea control. Each of these is effective, safe and easy to use.

Frontline can also be used on dogs and cats. It is available in two forms. The first is Frontline Spray and the second is Frontline Plus. The spray form is very effective and one spray should eliminate fleas for two to three months. You need to apply it properly by thoroughly rubbing it into the animal's coat with a gloved hand. This does take a bit of work but it's worth the effort. If this is a bit too difficult, then the Frontline Plus 'top spot' version, which is used every month, is easier, particularly with cats.

Frontline's 'top spot' for dogs strong point is that it is easy to use, and if used every two weeks, will also control ticks. For flea control it only needs to be used every month.

For cats, Frontline Plus 'top spot' is a lot easier to use than the spray, as most fractious felines resent sprays. With Frontline Plus, a concentrated form of the insecticide from a small vial is placed on the back of the neck so no spraying or fighting is needed. It needs to be repeated every four weeks.

Advantage is also a concentrated form of insecticide that comes in small vials and is available in this form for both dogs and cats. It is very easy to use and new research shows that the micro crystals of Advantage dropped from the animal's coat are like 'mine fields' of doom for flea larvae that are in the pet's environment. Therefore, as well as controlling adult fleas on the animal, it also controls the developing larvae that have hatched from eggs.

Sentinel is a new product. It combines the insect growth regulator Program with the once per month heartworm preventive, Endovet. Used monthly, it will control fleas, heartworm and most intestinal worms too. Its flea control effect relies on preventing flea eggs from hatching.

All these products are available from your local pet store.

There is also a wide range of other flea control products on the market, but most are being pushed aside by the ease of modern flea control products such as those mentioned above.

Flea shampoos deserve a mention. If you are washing your pets, why not use a product that controls fleas too? My favourite in this regard is Fido's Free Itch Shampoo. It is a locally produced product and leaves the coat smelling clean and fresh.

Controlling Fleas in the Environment

With severe flea infestations, controlling the flea eggs and larvae that are in the house and garden is also important.

A single flea will lay hundreds of eggs. The eggs drop from the animal's coat and are thereby spread around the environment the animal lives in. They hatch into larvae which progress through a pupal stage to adult fleas.

The eggs and the larvae are quite sticky and will adhere to carpet and the pet's bedding. They will also lodge in cracks and crevices around the pet's environment.

The first step to controlling fleas in the environment is to do a thorough Spring clean up. This involves removing as much dirt and debris from the pet's environment as possible. Vacuum the house, paying attention to areas near the skirting boards and under furniture as this is where the eggs are known to accumulate. Naturally concentrate on any area in which your pet sleeps.

Dispose of the dirt from the vacuum cleaner into a rubbish bag, add some insecticide spray or flea powder and then place it in the garbage bin.

The next step is to kill the glacial mounds of flea eggs and larvae that abound in the environment. 

Thankfully, if the products mentioned earlier are used, even if flea eggs do hatch the adult fleas will be killed quickly once they get on the animal's coat and usually before they can lay eggs.

If you are having a major problem with fleas, you may like to use a product containing an insect growth regulator such as methoprene. Growth regulators inactivate the flea eggs that are in the environment and prevent them from hatching. A variety of products are available containing this compound and most also contain a version of pyrethrins that will also kill adult fleas (and other insect pests). The most useful forms are produced as a fogger aerosol used to 'bomb' the house.

Good flea control will make your animal a much happier pet.

Cushing's disease is a serious disease of dogs that owners need to be aware of.

This is one disease that is far more common in pets than it is in humans. While six in 100,000 people suffer from Cushing's disease, the condition is about 200 times more common in dogs, with one in 1,000 dogs suffering from the condition.

Cushing's disease is also known as hyperadrenocorticism.

What Causes Cushing's Disease?

Cushing's disease is a slowly progressive disease caused by an excess of the hormone, cortisol, in an animal's body. Cushing's disease is the most common hormone-related disease seen in dogs but the disease is rare in other pet species.

Cortisol is a normal hormone that is produced by the adrenal gland and this hormone is essential for normal body function but, in some animals, the adrenal gland produces too much cortisol and Cushing's disease results. 

In some cases, Cushing's disease is caused by external influences - particularly the long-term administration of cortisone-like medication for the treatment of other diseases, especially skin diseases.

Where it is not caused by external administration of cortisone, there are two other causes.

Eighty-five percent of affected dogs have pituitary-dependant hyperadrenocorticism. This form is due to over-stimulation of the adrenal gland by another gland called the pituitary gland, which is located just underneath the brain.  One of the pituitary gland's functions is to control the adrenal gland. It does this by sending specific hormones to the adrenal gland and, in some dogs, the cells of the pituitary gland multiply and excrete too much of these hormones, thus, in turn, overstimulating the adrenal gland to produce too much cortisol.

A further fifteen percent of dogs develop the condition from tumour cells in the adrenal gland itself where these cells pump out excessive amounts of cortisol.

By conducting a variety of tests, your veterinarian will be able to determine which of the two forms of the condition is affecting your dog.

What Effects Will the Condition Have on My Pet?

Cushing's disease is seen mostly in middle-age or older dogs. Poodles, Daschunds, Boxers, Boston Terriers and Beagles seem to be more prone to the disease.

An increase in thirst and therefore increased urine output are common with this condition and affected dogs often develop an increased appetite.

Pets with Cushing's disease don't cope well with heat and panting is common. It is common for affected pets to develop a pot-belly appearance and they become over-weight and are lethargic.

Changes to the pet's coat are often seen. Hair loss and baldness commonly occur along the flanks on both sides of the body and the skin becomes thin and often greasy and malodorous. Changes in skin colour can also occur.

Behavioural changes are also seen with Cushing's disease. Dogs become lethargic, less friendly towards their owners and often affected dogs don't sleep well.

If your veterinarian suspects your dog has Cushing's disease, he or she will confirm the diagnosis with a variety of tests including urine and blood analyses.

What Treatments are Available?

Various treatments, including surgery, medications and sometimes radiation therapy, are used to control Cushing's disease.

While surgery is often used for pituitary tumours that cause Cushing's disease in humans, surgery is not often conducted for this form of the disease in dogs because of the complexity of the operation. Instead, medications are the usual form of treatment but radiation therapy is also employed in some cases.

If the condition is caused by tumours of the adrenal gland, surgery is more likely, although treatment with medication is also common.

Home Care

You should keep in close and regular contact with your veterinarian during treatment and after your pet has improved. Regular clinic rechecks are essential and you should expect that survey blood tests will be needed regularly.  Once your dog is stabilised, if it becomes sick for any reason, don't delay visiting your veterinarian.

Regularly measuring your dog's water consumption is useful. Each day give your dog a measured amount of water in its bowl and, when refilling the bowl the next day, measure the amount left so you know how much your dog has consumed.

Generally, water consumption should be less than 60 millilitres of water per kilogram of body weight per day. For instance, a 10 kilogram dog should be drinking less than 600 millilitres of water per day.  However, this is only a guideline as the amount will vary depending on your dog's activity, the environmental temperature and many other factors.

Also keep a log of your pet's weight and keep an eye on its appetite and general level of activity. Be careful in hot weather as your dog may be less heat tolerant. Ensure that fresh water is available at all times.

References and Further Information

http://www.healthcentral.com/mhc/top/000348.cfm

http://www.auburn.edu/administration/univrel/news/archive/1_97news/1_97grant.html

http://www.merckvetmanual.com/mvm/index.jsp?cfile=htm/bc/40203.htm

We have wonderful weather in this Sunshine State and over the holiday period we are likely to be out and about more with our pets.

However, the sunshine can cause another state - heat stress.  You need to be careful that you don't put your pets at risk over the hotter months.

Helping your pet to keep its cool this summer is vital and there are some 'tricks of the trade' that will help you to do just that.

The Hair of the Dog

It's easy for us to shed unwanted clothes in summer but not so easy for long-haired dogs and cats to shed their coats.

Having your pet clipped now is a good idea and there are many grooming parlours around town that will do the job for you.

Most pets are shedding their coats at this time of year and daily grooming to remove unwanted hair will make your pet more comfortable and will help it to shed excess heat.

Grooming aids, such as Slicker brushes, that are designed to strip loose hair from your pet's coat, can be found at your pet shop and veterinary surgery.

A Cool Abode

It is essential that your pets have adequate shade to rest in at this time of year. It's the afternoon sun that's the killer and therefore you should ensure that a shady spot is provided on the eastern side of your house so that the house itself provides shade. Kennels on the western side are nothing but hot boxes.

The coolest area in your home is underneath the house, and thankfully our Queenslander and Colonial houses provide just the spot for a pet's afternoon snooze.

This is the spot where your pet's water bowls (more than one) should be situated so that they remain cool.

Icy Solutions

To help your pet keep its cool while you are at work, provide some frozen treats for it.

It's a good idea to freeze a cup or two of water and place them in your dog's water bowl in the morning to keep the water cool.

Also, in a plastic lunch box, margarine container or similar, make a nutritious soup by placing a pet multivitamin mixture into some Vegemite broth. Then throw in some chunks of fresh meat, some liver treats and a few veges and freeze the whole lot.

When you go to work, remove the frozen delight from its container and place it into your pet's bowl. It will provide your pet with a stimulating and nutritious boredom blaster during the day that will also keep your hot dog cool.

Pooling Resources

A clam shell sand pit in a shady spot is a great summer treat for a hot dog. Fill one half of the sand pit with sand and wet the sand in the morning. This will give poochie a cool bed to snooze on. Fill the other half with water and poochie can drink it, sit or paddle in it or play in it, just like a kid at the beach.

Now suspend a hose above the sand pit and connect it to a clockwork hose timer on the tap. Set it to turn on during sprinkler times and the oscillating hose will cool your pooch and provide a watery wonder world.

Heated Arguments

Apart from keeping your pets cool at home, be very careful about their care when they are out and about with you because mistakes are too easy to make.

The saddest mistake of all is when a dog dies in a hot car.

The rules are simple. At this time of year, your dog should not travel with you if you are going to stop anywhere other than at your final destination. Many say "But I'm only going into the shop for a litre of milk - I'll be just a minute". The 'just a minute' extends very quickly if the shop is busy or if you happen to meet a talkative friend.

The highest temperatures are reached in cars of dark colour and with large glass areas. Hatchback cars are the worst, with temperatures quickly exceeding 70 degrees centigrade. This is lethal for any living being, including children, as we have seen recently.

Short nosed breeds of dogs, such as Bull Dogs, Pugs and the Pekingese, are very susceptible to heat stress.  Obese dogs and cats are at risk too, especially 'small fat' dogs. Dogs or cats with poor circulation and dogs with any respiratory disease are also susceptible.

Jogging Dogs

I cringe when I see people cycling or jogging with their dogs struggling behind. A dog is so faithful that it will try to keep up when it should stop and rest. The owner knows when he or she is getting too hot. However, the dog is so faithful it will ignore the messages from its body that say 'stop'.

The dog's tongue is dangling in a futile attempt to cool its body and it is obviously struggling to keep up. Dogs like this often collapse from circulatory failure.

Heat stress is a major concern over summer but a little common sense is all that is required to help your pets keep their cool.

Science is coming to the aid of deaf dogs and cats with better diagnostic protocols and even the installation of pet hearing aids being possible.

Deaf pets can be difficult to manage. With the inability to hear their owners or to detect dangers such as approaching motor vehicles, deaf dogs and cats need dedicated and caring owners.

How does deafness occur in pets?

Deafness can occur by two processes.

Sometimes dogs and cats have congenital deafness, meaning they are born deaf, or deafness develops within a month after birth.

In an American study, Dalmatians topped the list with almost 30% of over 5,000 of the breed showing some form of deafness. White bull terriers show a 20% incidence of deafness, Australian cattle dogs have a 14% incidence and English setters approximately 12%.

White cats are also particularly prone to deafness. A collection of studies in the 70s and 80s showed that 50% of white cats show some degree of deafness. The incidence of deafness is as high as 85% in white cats with two blue eyes, and 40% in cats with just one blue eye (these cats are commonly called odd-eyed whites).

Other pets develop deafness (called acquired deafness) later in life. This can occur due to the use of drugs, particularly some antibiotics, from noise trauma, ear infections and from age-related hearing loss.

Can Hearing Be Tested in Pets?

While it is a lot more difficult to test the hearing of a pet compared to humans, it is not impossible.

A test called the Brainstem Auditory Evoked Response (BAER) has been developed to test the hearing capabilities of dogs. This test is used at the University of Queensland by Dr Sue Sommerlad and by other professionals in locations around Australia and overseas.

This test can be used on puppies from the age of six weeks, and is therefore useful for testing those litters of breeds with a high prevalence of congenital deafness.

In a BAER test, three small needle electrodes are placed under the skin in the scalp of the dog. The electrodes detect electrical conductivity in the inner ear and in the auditory pathways in the brainstem in much the same way an ECG detects electrical activity from the heart. The electrical activity in response to a sound is identified by waves and peaks on a graph. A trace with no peaks indicates deafness in the ear being tested and will even show whether a dog is deaf in just one ear or in both.

Can Deafness Be Treated?

It is important that your veterinarian examines your pet if it develops deafness. 

Some forms of deafness are treatable and because ear infections are such a common cause of deafness, it is important that infections are treated.

But what about hearing aids for deaf pets? Dr Sommerlad from the University of Queensland works with Ms Deborah Mackenzie, the head of audiology from the Royal Brisbane Hospital. This team pioneered research to develop the first hearing aid for dogs.

These candidate dogs were those that suffered conductive deafness after damage to or removal of their ear canals.  The hearing aid is implanted into the bone near the ear and transmits vibrations into the inner ear. The vibrations are then converted into signals sent to the brain. 

Until recently this procedure had been limited by the thickness of the bone which holds the implant. This is important as younger animals may not have thick enough bone to house the implant.  Dr Sommerlad's recent work has shown that by using bone grafts to thicken the bone, the implants can be fitted to younger animals. 

This same technology can be sued to facilitate the placement of implants in deaf children under five, allowing them to hear at an earlier age.

Training a Deaf Dog

It is certainly possible to train a deaf dog, and even a deaf cat, but it takes patience and commitment. You need to use hand commands and to be very consistent in the way you use them. Also exaggerate your facial expressions so the dog can easily tell right from wrong and when you are happy with it and when you are not.

To get a deaf dog or cat's attention stamp on the floor, throw a stuffed sock or a ping pong ball near it. If you are outside toss a small pebble or rock near the pet. Then give it the appropriate hand signal.

Develop a special way to rouse your deaf dog from a sleep. A deaf pet can startle easily when asleep and this can cause aggression and fear. Try waking your dog by putting your hand in front of its nose or by using the scent of a food treat.

Podgy pooches and portly puss-cats are in plague proportions! Our pets are not only living in the lap of luxury, they are lapping up the living luxury and getting fatter in the process. The result is that 25-30% of dogs and cats are now overweight.

The causes are simple. We give our pets too much food and give too little exercise, but who can resist those puppy-dog eyes when our pooches plead for that life-saving extra treat or our manipulative purring puss-cats when they snake around our legs near their empty food bowls. The exercise bit is also difficult when the chilly weather makes staying at home much more inviting that pounding the pavement.

Many pet owners think that a bit of extra weight is not a concern. However, overweight pets are predisposed to serious conditions including arthritis, pancreatitis, diabetes (especially with cats) and even cardiovascular disease. There is no doubt that excess body fat shortens a pet's life span.

The following guidelines will help to determine if your pet is girth-enhanced:-

• If your dog or cat is of ideal weight, you should be able to feel each rib as you run your fingers along the ribcage.
• When viewed from above, your pet should have a definite narrowing or 'waist' behind the ribcage. When viewed from the side, dogs of ideal weight will have an abdomen that tucks upwards from the bottom of the ribcage to the groin.
• Many podgy puss cats develop a 'beer gut' that hangs between their back legs, which is easily seen and felt when the cat is sitting.
• Very overweight dogs develop 'love handles' of fat just in front of their hips.

So - how guilty do you feel?

No Fat Pups Please!

One of the most important means of preventing obesity in adult animals is to make sure they are not obese as puppies. The development of too many fat cells as a puppy, through overfeeding, will usually cause obesity in the adult dog.

If you have a pup, it is therefore important that you encourage it to exercise and play. That's the easy bit! Also, though, avoid  having food available constantly. This prevents your pup from eating as much as it wants whenever it wants.

Instead, you should feed your pup three times a day until it is about eight to twelve weeks of age. After that, feed it two meals a day until it is twelve months of age,  unless it is a giant breed, in which case,  twice daily feeding should continue until it is about eighteen months of age.

So, slightly under feed your pup rather than over feeding it. Resist the temptation to a have a typical 'roly-poly' fat puppy as you are setting the pup up for obesity as an adult animal.

Weight reduction strategies

For dogs and cats that are overweight, a proper weight reduction program is essential.

• Firstly, record your pet's starting weight and then weigh your pet weekly. Your vet will be happy for you to use his or her scales and, while you are there, have a look at the weight reduction diets the surgery has available.
• Work out what your dog or cat's target weight should be.
• Then feed your pet the amount of food needed for a pet that would weigh 60% of this target weight. This should see the weight reducing about 3% per week and you should achieve your pet's target weight in about 12 weeks.
• The next rule is essential but tough - and you know what it is! Never feed titbits and never feed your pet from your dinner table. I'll be watching , so be good!
• Make sure your pet doesn't have access to other food sources such as another pet's food or that is it not sneaking to the neighbour's house for a second course.
• Don't provide free access to food unless you measure the amount of food that is available for your pet.

It is a lot easier to reduce your pet's weight if you feed it on a low calorie, high fibre diet. You can make up your own diet.

For dogs, mix 115 grams of lean ground beef with half a cup of un-creamed cottage cheese, two cups of grated carrot and two cups of green beans. Add one and a half teaspoons of dicalcium phosphate powder. Lightly cook the beef, drain any fat, cool it and then add the other ingredients. This gives about 775 grams of food and is approximately the daily amount needed for a dog of eight to ten kilograms target weight.

Alternatively, you can buy a prescription food specifically designed for a weight reduction program from your veterinarian. This diet is a properly balanced, very low calorie, high fibre diet. The increased fibre fills the stomach and results in a feeling of 'fullness' while not adding unnecessary calories.

Once your pet's weight has reached its optimum level, you should then put your pet onto a 'light' diet to maintain this weight.

Stop guessing the amount of food you should be providing and measure it instead. Do this each morning and place the day's allowance in a container. You can then give your pet as many treats as you want - provided that the treats come from this container. Feed the remainder at the end of the day.

Work out what your dog should weigh as its target weight. Now give it the amount of food needed for a dog that would weigh 60% of this target weight. This should see the weight reducing about 3% per week.

Lastly, get a Cat-o-Nine-Tails and hang it on the wall near your pet's feed bowl. If you find your pet's weight has not reduced at the end of each week, then give yourself ten lashes!

Exercise Your Options!

Now let's exercise! Burning the calories is vital and perhaps you and your pet can start an exercise program together! Start with walks you can both handle and increase the length and intensity as you both become fitter.

However, there are many benefits from exercising your dog in your own back yard by throwing balls and Kong toys in various different directions. Swimming is also wonderful exercise for dogs if you can organise it.

Cats are more difficult to exercise but many love a paper mouse on a string or will chase ping-pong balls. Some cats will walk on a harness and you can even make a cat exercise for its food by cutting a hole in the side of a plastic milk carton and hiding its food inside.

Obesity in pets is a dangerous condition. Be tough with yourself to be kind to your pet.

It's wonderful sharing your life with a pet but not so good when the pet shares disease with you. Ringworm is the 'social butterfly' of pet diseases and is quite happy to flit from pet to pet and, from pet to owner. It can even spread from an infected owner to his or her innocent pet!

Is Ringworm a Worm?

The term ringworm is a misnomer. It has nothing to do with worms. It is a fungus, or more correctly, one of several fungi that can affect animals and humans. Because of its tendency to expand outwards, it was believed to be caused by a worm that was progressively growing under the skin.

Ringworm disease has an interesting history. In the 1800s barbers, schoolchildren, and theatre seats were the main way the fungus spread. Because it was found that people recovered better without their hair, hair was plucked strand by strand or pitch plaster was applied and the hair was torn out. In the 1900s, London children with ringworm were sent to separate schools that offered  the two 'E's' - education and X-ray epilation therapy. Their hair fell out, but many children and workers also died from radiation-associated injury.

Today, many children, adults and pet owners get ringworm through direct or indirect contact with the infected hairs or skin of  pets. Thankfully, nowadays the disease is fairly easy to treat without radiation, although some pet owners still pull their own hair out, but more in frustration!

Ringworm is caused by a group of fungi. The most common, causing about 70% of infections, is a contemptible bug known in the underworld as Micosporum canis.  Another two equally villainous fungi can also cause ringworm.

Ringworm is easily transmitted to humans. About 50% of people living with a ringworm-infected cat will develop the infection. Children and young animals are most susceptible to infections.

What Does Ringworm Infection Look Like in A Pet?

Ringworm in animals usually appears as a rapidly growing circular patch of broken hair. A 'cigarette ash' dandruff appears on the lesion and sometimes the patch has an inflamed margin. The hair may start to grow back in the centre of the patch while the extremity of the patch is still expanding.  The infection is more common in young animals. In kittens, the patches usually occur on the head and feet.

However, in cats, ringworm may not cause any obvious effects and therefore can be quite difficult to detect, especially if the cat is long-haired. In other cases, the cat can become almost totally denuded.  The ringworm fungus can also attack the claws of cats in which case the claws become roughened and pitted.

How will your veterinarian diagnose the infection?

Initially, your veterinarian is likely to scan the lesions with an ultraviolet lamp called a Wood's light. In about 60% of cases, the infected hair shafts will glow a bright green colour. Sometimes the hairs in the lesion will be plucked and added to a culture medium where the fungus will grow. Alternatively, skin scrapings are taken and are then examined under a microscope after special staining.

Treatment of a Ringworm Infection

Ringworm infections are treated in a variety of ways. Sometimes a cream, wash or medicated shampoo may be enough but usually a combination of several therapies is wise.          

Antifungal creams are readily available and may be efficient for small lesions. With local lesions it is important that the area is clipped to remove infected hair. Be careful while you are doing this so as not to damage the pet's skin. Burn any hair removed as this will be contaminated with fungus. Also wear gloves to stop yourself being infected and be sure to thoroughly disinfect your clippers. Smear the cream over the area surrounding the lesion and over the lesion itself. The cream may have to be used for several weeks but if no improvement in seen in two weeks, please see your veterinarian.

In more complicated cases, oral antifungal tablets may be needed. Such medications are prescription products and are available from your veterinarian. These tablets may need to be used for three to four months to get rid of the infection.

Disinfecting the environment the animal lives in is important.  The fungal spores will live on hair in the environment for over a year so sanitising the environment is vital or a recurrence is likely.

Destroy all bedding, blankets, brushes, combs, scratching poles and anything else that isn't essential. Vacuum the house thoroughly and discard not only the contents but also the vacuum bag as this will contain many fungal spores.

All remaining items should be soaked for an hour  in hot water to which betadine or iodophor has been added. The items should then be rinsed with a solution of one part chlorine bleach to ten parts water and air-dried in sunlight. You should have your drapes dry cleaned and your carpets steam cleaned. Floors and walls should be cleaned with chlorine bleach if possible.

Ringworm can really be a tenacious infection. If you are having ongoing problems with ringworm infections in your pets, consult your veterinarian for details.

The creeping, crawling, gnashing, nasty nibblers are on the march! They're everywhere - in your carpet, between your floorboards even in your garden and the blood thirsty blighters are seeking out your pets too. Yes, the Ferocious Aussie Flea is back - and with a vengeance. Stop your pet suffering from these parasites and hop into serious flea control.

Thankfully, ridding your pet of fleas is a lot easier than it used to be and there is now a large range of 'state of the art' products available which are effective and safe.

Most pet owners are now turning to the 'spot on the back of the neck' preparations. These products come in small vials that you squeeze onto your pet's neck, or sometimes onto its back. The convenient means of applying these flea preparations has proved a winner and they are effective and popular. 

There's also a wide range to choose from - such as Frontline Plus, Advantix, Revolution, Advantage & Advocate.  Some offer flea and tick protection, other also include heartworm and/or intestinal worming prevention.

Advantage, for instance, is very good at eliminating adult fleas in dogs and cats. However, another benefit is that micro-crystals of the preparation drop from the animal's coat into the areas that the pet visits, such as its bed and its resting spots in the garden. These micro-crystals are like 'mine fields' that will bomb the developing flea larvae. Therefore, while controlling adult fleas on the animal, Advantage also controls the developing larvae that are hatching from eggs - and this is occurring right now in your house and yard. It makes you feel kind of creepy doesn't it?

Frontline can also be used on dogs and cats. It is available in two forms. The first is Frontline Spray and the second is Frontline Plus. The spray form is very effective and one spray should eliminate fleas for two to three months. You need to apply it properly by thoroughly rubbing it into the animal's coat with a gloved hand. This does take a bit of work but it's worth the effort. If this is a bit too difficult, then the Frontline Plus 'top spot' version, which is used every month, is easier, particularly with cats.

An additional benefit of using Frontline on dogs is that it also gives ticks the flick. The spray should give good tick control for three weeks and the Top Spot should control them for two weeks.

Revolution is quite different and has multiple action. While it controls adult fleas in puppies and kittens and in dogs and cats, it does a whole lot more as well. It prevents flea eggs from hatching, and apparently kills fleas and their larvae in the environment. Furthermore, it is the only 'spot on the back of the neck' preparation to control heartworm in dogs and cats. In addition, it also controls ear mites in dogs and cats, sarcoptic mange in dogs and, in cats, controls roundworm and hookworm. This is quite a novel way to control most of the common pests that affect our pets. It is available now from your veterinary surgery. Revolution is aiming to eliminate the need to use separate flea and heartworm preparations each month.

Now let's hop away from 'spot on the neck' preparations and look at Sentinel. This popular product has a multiple action too, but is a monthly tablet. It combines the insect growth regulator, Program, with the once-per-month heartworm preventive, Interceptor. Used monthly, Sentinel will control fleas, heartworm and most intestinal worms. Its flea control effect relies on preventing flea eggs from hatching. However, it will not kill adult fleas directly so another preparation may be needed to them until Sentinel has zapped the eggs in the environment. Sentinel is a prescription drug and, therefore, by law cannot be dispensed over the counter by veterinarians. Sentinel works well with Capstar, a sister product from the same company. Capstar is a tablet flea killer that kills fleas very quickly but has no residual action.

A large range of flea control products exists other than those mentioned above. For instance, Proban is an insecticide tablet given once or twice per week and is effective against fleas and ticks. 

Flea shampoos also deserve a mention. There are many on the market including Fido's Free Itch Shampoo. They will clean your dog and cat and will kill fleas present at the time but usually will not give any residual action. Therefore shampoos will not usually affect fleas once the pet's coat is dry.

Flea control is a complicated topic. Seek advice from your pet care professional or veterinarian and give fleas the flick.

Allergic skin disease in dogs is a very common problem but trying to diagnose the problem and to treat it correctly is often difficult. Perhaps this article will help.

How Can I Tell If My Pet Has an Allergy?

It is quite likely that your pet has an allergy if it is scratching, licking, rubbing or chewing its skin excessively to the point where its hair is becoming thin or it is developing skin rashes or infections.

Many dogs with allergies will rub their faces on the ground, chew their feet, rub themselves along fences or will roll on rough ground to scratch their backs. The scratching often results in baldness and red, inflamed skin over the base of the spine and extending down the tail. As a result of the allergy, they may also develop bacterial or yeast infections of the skin which will usually cause an awful smell and give the coat a greasy appearance. Flakes of skin in the coat are also common.

Cats with allergies will often develop a thin, moth-eaten appearance to the hair coat and will have small scabs around their necks and in other parts of their coats too. They will often lick or pull tufts of hair from their coats while grooming.  Again, flaking of the skin is common.

How can I Determine What My Pet Is Allergic Too?

A flea bite allergy is by far the commonest allergy that a pet experiences, although not the only one.

To confirm if your dog is allergic to flea bites, you should practise perfect flea control for a period of two weeks. If the pet's itching and scratching are eliminated or greatly reduced, then a flea allergy is more than likely the cause.

Perfect flea control is not always that easy. Thankfully with Frontline and Advantage now on the market flea control is a lot easier. However, to confirm if your are dealing with a flea allergy, even these products may not be enough. The most reliable method is to pick a flea control preparation that can be used on the pet every day for the two-week period. Mostly, the product 'Permoxin' is used for this. It should be used as a rinse on the first day, and then sprayed, diluted,  onto the pet, every day for the test period.  While Permoxin will kill any fleas on the animal, it  is also a repellent which persuades fleas to stay away.

If the itching stops or greatly reduces then this confirms that fleas are the cause. The remedy therefore is to eliminate fleas from the pet?s environment. Inside the house, use insecticide bombs which contain an insect growth regulator, and a reliable and safe insecticide in the pet?s sleeping areas in the garden.  Naturally a reliable flea control preparation for 'on animal' use is essential, and for this, Permoxin, Frontline or Advantage, used according to the instructions on the packet,  are ideal.

If the flea elimination trial did not have a good effect, then an allergy of a different type may be the problem

Food allergies are sometimes able to be diagnosed at home.  However, your vet can make the process a lot easier. To determine if your pet is allergic to food, you need to use a trial diet of a type the pet has never eaten before. This involves the use of a unique source of protein and carbohydrate. The protein can be provided by unusual meats such as turkey, venison, kangaroo meat or pork, if these meats are not part of the pet?s normal diet. Your pet also needs a unique carbohydrate source such as pasta, potatoes or rice. Be aware that such a diet is not balanced and is not suitable for long term feeding without modification.

Alternatively, there are commercial restricted protein diets available from your veterinarian which will make the process a lot easier.

Either way, the pet needs to stay on this diet for at least two weeks. If the scratching is reduced on this diet then, one at a time, add new proteins and carbohydrates to its food to observe the effect. Any return of itching confirms the added food is an allergen for your pet.

If, following all of the above procedures, you are still having no effect, then the allergy may well be a condition called Atopy where the pet is allergic to inhaled substances such as pollens, moulds, house dust and so on. This condition can be diagnosed by either a blood test or a skin test and your veterinarian can advise you further.

Is an Allergy the Only Condition That Causes Pets to Scratch?

Pets will also scratch if they are suffering from mite infestations in the skin, from bacterial infections or from fungal or yeast infections.

In dogs, mites cause the conditions collectively know as Mange. Demodectic Mange is the commonest, but Sarcoptic Mange is also occasionally seen.

Mange can only be diagnosed by your veterinarian who will usually do some skin scrapings to attempt to find the mites.

Bacterial infections are more often a cause of itchy skin than many owners realise. Bacteria can spread over the skin surface causing the development of pus-containing blisters, red inflamed areas of skin, or red and revolting, moist, oozing sores called Hot Spots.

Yeast and fungi are also infectious organisms that cause nasty skin complaints.  When these bugs are present in a dog's skin, the result is often the development of black, thickened skin, excessive scale and odour and a greasy feel and appearance of the skin.  Face-rubbing is also a common sign.

Determining the cause of skin conditions in pets is not easy. Don't allow your pet to suffer - see your veterinarian for a skin management program and 'lick the itch'!

Ticks are nasty, sneaky venomous little parasites. They are a lethal danger to your dogs and cats too.  When it's Paralysis Tick season, what can you do to protect your dog against ticks?

The Paralysis Tick and the Brown Dog Tick are the two most common ticks on dogs in Australia.  However, it is the Paralysis Tick that is by far the most dangerous.  It causes paralysis in a variety of forms but a 'typical' case starts with weakness of the hindquarters that progresses to total paralysis of all four legs.  When the chest muscles and muscles of the throat become affected, the dog or cat is in serious trouble.  When a Paralysis Tick affects a pet, the pet often dies.

Preventing tick paralysis is a much safer and cheaper alternative than treating the condition once it has occurred.

If you live in a tick-infested area, you should examine your dog or cat for ticks on a daily basis.  If you have taken your pet for a walk through the bush or have been camping with your dog then examining it when you get back home is also a good idea.  Don't try to look for ticks, try to feel for them instead.  Ticks are a lot easier to find if you rub your finger tips through your pet's coat rather than if you try to look for them. Your pet will enjoy the patting and rubbing too!

Research has confirmed that it's best to get the tick off yourpet's body as soon as possible.  A Tick Twister is a small tool that can help you to safely remove the tick. 

The next step is to take your pet to your veterinarian. This is vital, as the residue of the tick's toxin under the skin can really cause a problem. Although the tick has been killed or removed, the animal can still become paralysed from this residue of poison. The poison is slowly absorbed and may cause paralysis hours or even a day or two later.  

Preventing Tick Paralysis

Tick infestations can be prevented although tick control is easier on dogs than on cats.  Also, manufacturers are releasing new products onto the market regularly to make the job easier and more reliable. 

There are several ways to minimise tick infestations.

Firstly, there are specific tick collars that are available. Virbac makes one under the name of the Preventic 2 Month Tick Collar and Bayer makes another called the Kiltix Tick and Flea Collar for Dogs.

You should not use the above products on cats. 

For cats and dogs, Frontline is a good choice. Frontline Plus is effective for ticks on dogs if used every two weeks (not every month). Frontline Spray is effective for ticks on dogs and cats if used every three weeks at the rate of six millilitres per kilogram of weight.  If you find a tick on your pet, you can spray Frontline directly onto the tick to kill it.

The Bayer product Advantix is also an excellent choice for dogs and like Frontline, it is a 'spot on the neck' product. It also controls fleas but one advantage of this product is that it also repels ticks, fleas and even mosquitoes and sand flies.

Proban is an oral insecticide that is quite effective against ticks on dogs but needs to be used every two days rather than at the flea-controlling dose of twice weekly.  Some veterinarians also recommend Proban for ticks on cats at 1/4 of a tablet every two days.  A liquid version is also available.  Because Proban is an oral medication that is excreted via the pet's skin, it gives tick control over the whole of the pet's body.  When using sprays or rinses, it is possible to miss some areas, thereby allowing ticks to attach. This does not happen with Proban.

Fido's Fre-Itch Rinse is also effective for ticks and fleas if the dog or cat is rinsed in it every three days. Fido's is useful when your pet has been in a tick area and you want to bathe it to kill any hitchhiking ticks.

In tick prone areas, it is essential that your pets are searched daily for ticks. If this is done routinely, you can then eliminate tick paralysis because the tick  usually has to be on the animal's body for more than two days to cause paralysis.

Don't take chances with ticks.  They are the most dangerous of parasites that can infest your pet and they kill.  See your pet care professional or veterinarian and ask for advice on a safe tick control program for your pet.

How much do you know about your pet's teeth?  Sadly, many pet owners don't think about their pet's teeth often enough with the result that 80% of dogs and 70% of cats suffer from dental disease by the age of three.

To help you keep your pet's teeth healthy, consider the following ten tooth truths.

1.  Tooth disease is the commonest disease seen in pets. 

As most of us don't look at our pet's teeth on a daily basis, we don't realise that dental disease is developing. The result is many pets unnecessarily suffer tooth loss, gum infection and even death from associated infections.

2. If your pet has bad breath, it probably has dental disease.  

Bad breath is more than likely due to bad teeth. The smell permeates from a stale stew of decaying food particles that mix with the pet's saliva. Bacteria flourish in such conditions and this fermenting bacterial stew smells.

3. Pets with tooth decay show behaviour changes. 

Dental disease hurts and an affected pet can be in constant pain. This will often manifest as a change in the pet's behaviour. Aggression is a common result, but the pet may be morose and reclusive or it may be reluctant to eat and may rub its face on the ground or paw its face regularly.  The pain often causes drooling.

4. Some breeds of dogs and cats are more prone to dental disease. 

Smaller breeds, such as Poodles, Maltese Terriers and Chihuahuas, have more problems with dental disease than larger breeds. Also pets with short noses such as Pugs, Cavalier King Charles Spaniels, the Pekinese and similar breeds are more prone to tooth decay because they have too many teeth for the amount of room in their small jaws.

For the same reason, Persian cats have their share of tooth turmoils and the Abyssinian is also prone to dental disease.

5. Dental Disease can cause irreversible damage.           

As plaque and its grubby bacterial gang continue to proliferate on the teeth, calcium salts are deposited and these develop into concrete-like deposits called tartar. If untreated, infection sets in and a condition called gingivitis occurs. Gingivitis is usually reversible. However, when this is untreated it leads to periodontal disease which is irreversible. Periodontal disease causes infection and erosion of the bone around the tooth, eventually causing tooth loss.

6. Dental Disease affects organs other than teeth. 

With advanced dental disease, the continuous entry of dangerous bacteria into the circulation causes serious and sometimes fatal disease in the heart, liver, kidneys and lungs. These bacteria float from the infected gums like rafts and eventually adhere onto heart valves and into the minute capillaries in other organs where, like seeds, they grow and cause deadly infections.

7. Soft foods make a pet's teeth dirty. 

Canned diets and other soft foods are more likely to cause dental disease because such foods have no abrasive action to clean the teeth and worse, they are sticky and adhere to the tooth surface.

Minimise canned foods, minced meats and soft treats and your pet's teeth will remain healthy. Don't feed pets human foods because human foods are very soft by nature.

Minimise canned foods, minced meats and soft treats.

8. Bones and good quality dry food help to keep a pet's teeth clean. 

Raw meaty bones are good toothbrushes but it's not just the bone but the chunks of meat that are important. While attempting to strip the meat from the bone, your dog is flossing its   teeth and removing the concrete-like tartar that accumulates too readily.

Bones should always be raw. For cats and small dogs, chicken wings and necks are good. Meaty lamb shanks and the smaller ox-tails are good for medium-sized dogs and for the big boys, larger ox tails, marrow bones and brisket bones are good.

Rawhide chews and similar treats are ideal and, if your dog will eat them, the humble carrot is a safe and wonderful toothbrush.

9. Brushing a pet's teeth is the best way of keeping a pet's teeth clean. 

The gold standard of pet dental care is for you to brush your pet's teeth. Regretfully most pet owners don't do this but it is not a difficult task.

You will need to get your pet used to having its teeth brushed and a little training and patience are needed. E-mail your request and I will send more information on how to do this.

10. Yearly Check Ups. 

Your last task is to ensure your pet has a yearly dental check-up. This is best done at the time your pet has its yearly vaccination and its once-a-year heartworm injection.

Should your pet's teeth need to be cleaned, a short anaesthetic will make the job easier for all. After the cleaning, practice your home dental care program and your pet's teeth will remain in good condition.

Heartworm disease is a silent killer of dogs and cats. It's a slow, insidious disease that gradually incapacitates pets. By the time you notice the telltale signs of the disease, the damage that has been caused is serious. This is one disease that can be totally prevented and now, a new form of heartworm prevention is available to make your job even easier.

Heartworms are transmitted to dogs and cats by mosquitoes. After injection by a mosquito, adult worms eventually start to grow inside a pet's heart and lungs, causing very serious damage. Being so large, they are a major barrier to the free passage of blood from the heart to the lungs. The infection slowly progresses. The heart dilates and becomes weak and in the lungs, the worms cause scarring and pneumonia.

In a dog, the disease initially causes a cough which progressively becomes worse. The dog becomes inactive and lethargic due to the weakening of its heart. It will not be able to tolerate exercise without coughing. In severe cases, fluid leaks out of the blood vessels and accumulates in the lungs and the lower part of the abdomen. This fluid gives the dog's abdomen a 'pear-shaped' appearance, resembling the shape of a balloon filled with water

Sometimes, the animal will suddenly collapse. This occurs with no warning. It is associated with deep, laboured breathing, extreme weakness and a blue appearance to the tongue, and very pale gums.

In cats, heartworm disease is well recognised as a problem. Serious disease can be caused with just one worm, whereas in dogs, one or two worms are usually well tolerated. Tragically, the most common sign of the disease in cats is sudden death, but if your cat is breathless or develops a cough, you should also be concerned.

Preventing Heartworm Disease

Thankfully, preventing heartworm disease is easy and all dogs and cats should be on some form of preventive medication.

There are several choices. A daily heartworm preventive has been available for dogs for many years and was the first form of prevention used. This is an effective method, but daily preventive medications are falling in popularity. 

Monthly heartworm medications are very popular. There are several brands available, such as Proheart, Revolution, Heartgard, Sentinel and Interceptor and Advocate. Many monthly preparations are available in a chewable treat form which makes them easy to administer, while Revolution and Advocate are available as a 'spot on the back of the neck' preparation. In addition, many of the monthly preparations also help to control intestinal worms.

The most recent advance in heartworm prevention is the yearly Once-A-Year Heartworm Prevention injection.

This product represents an exciting breakthrough for modern science because of the unique way it works. The active ingredient, moxidectin, is enclosed in minute beads called microspheres. After injection, the microspheres slowly release moxidectin which then diffuses into fatty tissues. From there, the moxidectin kills the immature forms of the heartworm menace for a full twelve months.

The ideal time for your dog to receive the injection is at the time of its annual vaccination.

The  Once-A-Year Heartworm Prevention injection can be given to pups as early as three months of age. Due to the pup's rapid growth it needs to be repeated at six months of age.

If your dog is currently on a monthly or daily heartworm preventive, it can be easily switched onto this new injection.

While it is not suitable for cats, the Once-A-Year Heartworm Prevention will be attractive for those dog owners that have difficulty remembering to give their dog its monthly or daily heartworm preventive.

It is very important that you know with certainty that your dog is free from heartworm disease before starting on any heartworm preventive medication, including Once-A-Year Heartworm Prevention. Therefore, unless your veterinarian knows that your dog is free from heartworm disease, he or she may advise that your dog is tested for heartworm infection before the medication is sold to you.

For more advice on heartworm prevention, contact your veterinarian.

Intestinal Worms are more common than many people think and can be quite debilitating on our pets. Many can also easily be passed on to humans – especially children.  It is important for the health of our whole family to remember to worm our Cats, Dogs, Birds, Guinea Pigs, Rabbits & Rats.

Most worm infestations cause any or all of these symptoms:

• diarrhea, perhaps with blood
• weight loss
• dry hair
• general poor appearance
• vomiting, perhaps with worms in the vomit

There are are several common types of intestinal worms that can infect our pets including:

• Tapeworm – affects cats & dogs
• Hookworm – affects cats & dogs
• Roundworm – affects cats, dogs, birds, & small animals
• Whipworm – affects mainly dogs

Worming treatments come in several forms :

• Liquid drops to be applied on the back of the neck (cats & dogs)
• Liquid to be put in their drinking water (birds & small animals)
• Tablets
• Flavoured Chews or chewable tablets

Some “drop on the back of the neck” flea treatments now include some intestinal worming but none cover all types of worming. It’s therefore well worth checking if you have covered all types of worms that could infect your pet.

Tapeworm tablets are one intestinal worming treatment  you often have to add to your pets worming regime. If you are using one of the flea products for most of your pets worming it’s a good idea, a few times of the year, to use an all-wormer tablet, paste or chewable tablet for complete coverage.

How often do I need to treat my pet for intestinal worms ?

For Kittens & Cats : 

• Treat at 6, 8 and 12 weeks then every 3 months

For Puppies & Dogs : 

• Treat at 2, 4, 8 and 12 weeks, then every month until they are 6 months old, then every 3 months.

For Birds, Poultry & Small Animals: 

• Every 3 months is recommended

Please note that Heartworm is not covered in this discussion and, as a potentially life threatening infestation, checks and treatment for this parasite should also be included in your dog and cats health regime.

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

Some dogs & cats are highly sensitive to flea bites and only one flea bite can cause them to itch terribly. Sometime this leads to them gnawing away at the hair and bald patches may occur. In other cases they may be less sensitive to flea bites but the irritation is like us having multiple mosquito bites. 

Treatment of only the fleas on your dog or cat is unlikely to work in the long term. Each flea can lay hundreds of eggs so treating your pet as well as their environment is essential to get rid of fleas.

Quality flea treatments are recommended over older generic supermarket type products as the cheaper products are not as efficient and you are likely to prolong the suffering of your pet and end up spending more money over the longer term.

Here's our top tips for getting rid of fleas:

• Remove adult fleas with either CAPSTAR TABLETS or FIDOs FLEA SHAMPOO.   Capstar can be given daily whenever adult fleas are seen on your pet.  Bathing ideally would not be more frequent than once a fortnight.
• Treat the house & bedding.  We recommend FIDOs FLEA BOMBS or FIDOS INSECTICIDAL SPRAYS.  Washing of any bedding must be at 60 degrees or hotter and for a wash cycle of at least 10 minutes.
• Break the flea life cycle to prevent them coming back. The following products are highly recommended for breaking the life cycle of fleas and preventing re-infestation:  ADVANTIX / REVOLUTION / ADVOCATE / ADVANTAGE / SENTINEL / FRONTLINE.  In some cases it may be worth administering more frequently than once per month.  Please ask our staff to recommend which would be best for your your pet as each treatment has different active ingredients and some do more than just treat fleas (Ticks / Heartworm / Intestinal Worms).  Advantix and Sentinel are for dogs only.
• Treat the garden. In some cases you may have an outbreak of fleas and their eggs in your garden. If this is the case you will need to either spray the garden with an insecticide from your local garden centre or call in a pest controller. 

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

Worms are little wrigglers that are more than just a nuisance. They can kill pups and make adult dogs really unwell. Dog owners need to be particularly aware of the danger of worms and how to prevent them.

Dogs can become infected with four different types of worms, namely hookworms, roundworms, tapeworms and whipworms. There are several different varieties in each type. In northern Australia, the hookworm is a major disease risk.

How do you know if your dog has worms?

Regretfully, you may not know your dog has worms until it is sick. In puppies, a worm infection can cause a life threatening condition to develop quickly.  Contrary to common belief, it is not common to see worms in a dog's or puppy's droppings under normal circumstances. Under a heavy load, a roundworm may be passed, and but this indicates a significant problem. 

Hookworms
With hookworms in young pups you are likely to see soft tar-like faeces that develop into diarrhoea, usually with blood staining of the faeces. The blood loss in puppies can be extreme and a serious anaemia is a common, fatal side effect. Hookworms are quite small so it is not common to see hookworms in the animal's droppings after proper treatment. 

Roundworms
Roundworms are a big worm, measuring up to 18cm in length. They are a particular problem in puppies as they are spread to them while they are in the mother's uterus. Thus, pups can be born with a roundworm infestation.

Roundworms cause diarrhoea, sometimes with blood staining, and can commonly cause a blockage of the bowel due to their large size. Affected puppies have a 'pot-bellied' appearance and a rough coat. Such puppies are often 'poor doers'.

After treatment, it is common so see several of these large roundworms in the animal's droppings. 

Roundworms cause diarrhoea, and can commonly cause a blockage of the bowel due to their large size.

Tapeworms
Tapeworms are a common problem in dogs. Surprisingly, although they are quite big - up to half a metre long, they cause only mild disease. They are one, but not the only, cause of 'scooting' behaviour of dogs. This unusual behaviour is where a dog rubs its bottom along the ground. The irritation is due to the emergence of tapeworm segments from the dog's anus. The segments are easy to identify. They are the size of a rice grain and are quite active. They will wriggle visibly and can be seen with the naked eye on the dog's droppings or on its fur around its bottom. By continually 'scooting', a dog will occasionally cause a lot of self-inflicted irritation around the skin of its anus. 

A rare tapeworm, the Spirometra worm, is contracted by dogs and cats eating insects, grubs and other animals. 

Whipworm
The last worm, the Whipworm, is a medium size worm that affects the lower bowel of dogs. It again causes diarrhoea which characteristically contains mucus and often some fresh blood.

So what do you need to do if you think your pup has worms?

Worms can be eliminated with common worming medications that are available from your veterinarian or pet shop. Be sure to choose a medication that will treat all four worms that your pup can be affected by. However, if your pup is already unwell, it may need other medication to control any diarrhoea that is present and to build up reserves of, for instance, iron that may be depleted from continual blood loss. For advice on this, you should consult your veterinarian.  Your vet's advice should certainly be sought if your pup is weak and lethargic or if it is vomiting and you suspect is has a worm infestation. 

Preventing worm infestations

Preventing worm infestations is a very important matter. Puppies under three months of age, should be wormed every two weeks from two weeks of age onwards. There are various  worming suspensions that are ideal for puppies of this young age.

Once the pup reaches three months of age is it advisable to worm it every month until it is six months old and thereafter it should be wormed every three months.

Many owners place their dogs onto a monthly heartworm medication that also contains an intestinal worming medication. This is a good idea and the dog is wormed for the common worms every month. However, you need to be certain that the monthly product you are using does treat all worm species that can be present.

If you are using a monthly product to control heartworm and intestinal worms, it is still important you use an all-wormer tablet at least once every six months and many vets advise an all-wormer is used every three months.

There are so many alternatives when using worming preparations for your dogs and cats to to ensure you are getting it right, consult with your veterinarian.

Do you consider yourself to be a SNAPO - a Sensitive New Age Pet Owner??  SNAPO'S are the pinnacles of pet owning society - blessed with more than the average share of compassion towards the creatures we share our lives with - the soul mates of canine cognition and feline philanthropy.

Well, here's a brain teaser - would a SNAPO feed his dog or cat a chicken bone?  While that may sound a bit pedestrian to you, or to your pooch or moggy, it is quite important.

To a dog, there is nothing as pleasurable as a wholesome bone to gnaw on and, generally speaking, bones are good for dogs. While the feeding of bones to cats is, regretfully,  a little less common, there are still great benefits to be gained from throwing your tranquil tiger a bone two or three times a week.

Bones are an essential part of a pet's diet and are especially useful to maintain dental health and to aid in alleviating the often humdrum normality that is a tragic part of the lives of many Twenty-First Century pets.

Bones are an excellent source of protein and minerals and they perform the very useful function of keeping a pet's teeth free from scale and tartar.

It's easy for us vets to determine which of you pet owners are SNAPO's just by looking inside your pet's mouth when you bring them to our clinics. Dogs and cats that receive a regular bone come into the clinic with what we call a 'Bona Lisa' smile.  Their teeth are a sparkling white colour and there is a total lack of that awful, telltale yellow discolouration of the molars, typical of a pet with dental calculus.

Bona Fide Bones

The first rule is that raw bones are preferable to cooked bones as raw bones are digested a lot more easily.  There are one or two exceptions to this which I will mention later.

The best types of bones to feed are the softer types.  Soft brisket bones are excellent, knuckle bones are good and so are large marrow bones.  It is much better if the bones have big chunks of meat attached as this provides excellent exercise for the teeth and gums. 

Recent research has shown that ox tails, chicken wings and chicken necks are particularly valuable - but some dogs even like raw carrots!!  A raw carrot is totally safe and cleans the teeth as well as a bone.

At this point, I am sure that many pet owners are shrieking in horror at the thought of feeding their pets chicken bones.  Has not the veterinary industry been saying for years that chicken bones are dangerous because they splinter?  Times change and the birds that are sent to market now are young, immature birds of about 12 - 14 weeks of age.  Their bones are soft, especially the bones of the wings and necks, and are quite safe.  

Alternatively, pig's ears and similar smoked chews are enjoyed by most dogs and are generally quite safe.

Cats are a bit more cerebrally endowed than dogs and to some, the idea of chewing a bone in public is just too low class to be considered for a creature of such superior station.  It all comes back to the catch phrase of the cat lobby - Cats Rule Dogs Drool.  However, if they are sure no one's looking, even the haughtiest of felines will usually succumb to a chicken wing if the flesh is browned in a frying pan or masterfully roasted to purrfection.  So, as an exception to the 'raw bone rule', cats do often seem to prefer their chicken wings at least seared brown or roasted.  In reality, it is rare indeed for chicken wings from a roast chicken to cause cats (or dogs) problems.

Boney Tails

Ox tails are almost scientifically designed to suit your pet's needs.  They are fat and broad near the butt of the tail and, of course, are smaller and thinner at the tip.  Therefore, ox tails are designed to cater for different sized mouths.  Great Dane owners would do well to choose the thicker cuts while cat owners should choose the thinner ones near the tip of the tail.  You will find all sizes in the meat cabinet of your local supermarket.  The shape of an Ox Tail is ideal as, being a meaty bone of cylindrical shape, the animals really get their molar teeth grinding away at the meat and bone.  It is this very grinding action that also grinds away the scale on your pet's teeth.

By comparison, the wrong types of bones can certainly cause problems.

Bones such as chop bones, T-Bones and fish bones should never be given to pets. These bones have a dangerous tendency to splinter into sharp fragments and, when swallowed, they can perforate the dog's bowel with life-threatening consequences.

Occasionally, when a dog crushes a bone, it can also wedge inside the dog's mouth.  It often wedges transversely between the teeth on the left and those on the right side of the mouth, or it can lodge over a molar tooth where it becomes stuck like a bulldog clip.  However, problems like this are almost always caused by cooked bones and only rarely by raw bones.

Bones lodged inside the mouth can sometimes by removed by levering the bone out with a blunt instrument such as the rounded metal handle of a sturdy dessert spoon.  However be careful as this can be very difficult and dangerous as the dog may be so frantic that it will try to bite.  The best solution is a quick trip to the veterinarian.

Bone Idle Dogs

There are other advantages with feeding dogs and cats bones. The biggest advantage of a meaty bone is that dogs and cats enjoy them so much. 

So often our domesticated pets lead a dull life.  Dogs lie in the back yard for hours with little to interest them.  No wonder they leap into a paroxysm of barking whenever a stranger or another dog walks past their front gate as this is likely to be the highlight of their day.  A bone can change all that.

A large, raw bone will keep a dog content for hours.  If you are in the habit of leaving your dog unattended during the day, leave a raw bone out for it occasionally.  This will delay the onset of boredom and may help to stop the dog barking during your absence. Even cats will benefit from the boredom relief that a bone affords.  

Don't forget to hug your pet.

What ingredients are in a BARF Pattie?

BARF patties contain healthy fresh raw foods like muscle meat, organ meat, bones, vegetables, fruit, eggs and yoghurt, which is rich in essential fats, proteins, vitamins, minerals, enzymes, natural photochemicals and anti-oxidants.

Are there any other hidden “filler” ingredients in the BARF Pattie?

No.  BARF patties contain no fillers, no chemicals, no colouring, no preservatives, no heat processing (which can take the goodness out of veggies) and no grains.

What flavours are available?

Dr B’s Patties for Dogs come in six flavours – Chicken, Lamb Combination, Kangaroo, Beef and Pork.

Can I feed my dog other food as well as BARF?

BARF has been formulated with the right amount of nutrition for your pet.  It may be fed as the whole diet or combined with varying proportions of raw meaty bones and other raw healthy foods.

What difference will feeding BARF really make for my pet?

There are many benefits in feeding Dr B’s BARF products to your pet.  Their skin and coat will be one of the first noticeable changes with a more lustrous and shiny coat. 

Their energy levels should increase, and some allergies can also disappear, even auto-immune problems may reduce in severity. 

Your pet’s teeth will have less tartar and healthier gums.  And a much sweeter breath (all the better for those kisses)!

Because of the ingredients used, your pet’s stool volume will decrease and because of the high bone content within the patties, there will be minimal odour.

How should I introduce my pet to the patties?

There are 4 methods you could use.  You know your pet’s eating preferences so choose the option you think your pet will be the most comfortable with.

1. You can offer one meal of the pattie and the next meal of the old food and gradually feed fewer meals of the old type.  If your pet accepts this method with no problems, it is an indication that your pet has a robust digestive system and would handle the rapid switch well.

2. Another way is to offer less and less of the old food and more of the new food.  For eg. Feed 25% of the new food for a few days, then increase to 50% for a few days, 75% for a few and then 100%.

3. The slow switch method is to physically break the old and new food down and combine into a mass.  Start out with small amounts of the new and gradually decrease the old over time.  This works well with pets who are reluctant to try new foods.

4. Introduce the new food in a cooked state, gradually feeding it in a more raw state – this can work well with fussy pets and useful introduction for cats.

Can I feed my cat Dr B’s BARF patties for Dogs?

Dogs and Cats have different nutritional needs so cats should never be fed dog food! 

However, Dr B has created BARF patties so your feline friend does not go without.  Cat patties are available in Kangaroo and Turkey flavours.

"Oh - he's my child, Doctor Day! Nothing but the best for Micky. Wouldn't think of feeding him anything less than the food I feed myself."

Micky McGory was a much loved Fox Terrier.  He was the apple of his mother's eye and he knew it. Nevertheless, Micky was obese, had a poor hair coat and decaying teeth. Mrs McGory would have done a lot better by feeding Micky as if he were a dog and not as if he were a human being!

Feeding pets is a big responsibility. They have no choice but to eat that which is put in front of them.  If you get it wrong, the effects can be devastating and long lasting.

The basic notion is simple. A pet needs a balanced diet. However, what may be a balanced diet for a bouncy Australian Cattle dog may be just the wrong thing for a sedate and tubby Labrador. What about a young puppy or kitten? Should you feed them the same as an adult animal? As for aged dogs, they don't need special consideration - do they?

To feed your dog or cat correctly you need to provide a different diet for each stage of your pet's life. You also need to vary your pet's diet depending on how active it is. For puppies, you should provide a different diet for the large, fast growing breeds than you would give for a smaller breed.

Puppy and Kitten Feeding

If you have a pup or kitten, it will be growing rapidly, building muscles and bones and spending a vast amount of energy with its 'exuberance of youth'.

Your young pet needs more protein for its muscles, more minerals and vitamins for its bones and active metabolism and more calories due to its exuberant activity and rapid growth than an adult dog or cat.

However, it is important, especially for large breeds of dogs, that they are not over-fed. Your fat roly-poly puppy may look cute and teddy-bear like, but it is likely to have problems with obesity and skeletal problems when it matures. This is because excess food increases the number and size of fat cells that your pet's body manufactures as it grows. Once your pet has made the excess number of fat cells, the cells won't go away. They are there waiting to sponge up any excess fat in your pet's diet.

So, rather than overfeeding pups and kittens, feeding them slightly less than they need is better. You also need to feed them a balanced diet, and if you do, supplementation with calcium or other vitamins is not necessary and could even be harmful. Large breeds need a food lower in calories and minerals to prevent over-consumption of nutrients and, thereby, to prevent bone problems such as Hip Dysplasia.

My Dog is Fat - What should I do?

Obesity is the commonest nutritional disease in pets.  In societies like ours, 25% of humans and from 24% to 44% of dogs are obese. It is interesting that obese people are more likely to have obese pets. Labradors, Cairn Terriers, Cocker Spaniels and Daschunds are the breeds that top the 'tubby' list in dogs.

Dogs cannot get fat on thin air. To restore normal weight, decrease the number of calories that your dog is eating and increase the number of calories that your dog is using. The formula is simple -   reduce the amount of food or at least the number of calories in the food and increase your dog's exercise.

Low calorie 'super-premium' diets, such as Hills Science Diet Light are available from your pet shop or veterinarian. Be sure to weigh your dog before starting the diet and then weekly. Set a target weight and work towards achieving that weight in two months. If your pet's weight has not reduced by the time you weigh it each week, then sack yourself as a pet owner!

My Pet is a Finicky Eater - What Should I do?

Many dogs are fussy eaters and some are so fussy that they do not maintain a correct weight. A very tasty diet that is high in calories will solve the problem. You should feed your dog an increased amount of fat, protein and energy to achieve this.

Active dogs require the same type of diet as this too. This includes working dogs, racing dogs, show dogs or any pet that is 'on the go' all day long.

The easiest way to feed the right diet for these types of pets is, again, to visit your pet shop or veterinarian and ask for an Active Formula dog food.

Are Super Market Brands Suitable?

With pet foods, you get what you pay for. The cheaper brands generally have lower quality ingredients with very low digestibility.  This means that your dog or cat is unlikely to be able to extract the nutrients from the food.  Low price foods are not economical as you have to feed more of them for your pet to get sufficient nutrients. If you feed a cheap brand, the food you put into your pet's mouth will go through its body undigested. Your dog will then unceremoniously dump the food onto the lawn when it goes to the toilet.

The value of super-premium foods is that they are extremely digestible. This means that you will feed less compared with the supermarket brands, that your pet can extract all the nutrients that are in the food, and that the faeces produced will be smaller, more solid and easier to clean up.

At work all day long or away from the house for extended periods?  Is your dog showing signs of boredom by digging holes or chewing your favourite shoes?  Not sure how to keep your dog entertained?

Danielle from Urban Dog Training understands the importance of keeping your dog entertained.  Danielle says, "While most people understand that their dog needs to be physically healthy, few are yet to fully comprehend the important of mental health on their dogs general well being.  Dogs often spend many hours alone these days while humans are at work - this can lead to a bored dog who engages in inappropriate behaviours.  To avoid this it is necessary to provide your dog with a variety of mental exercises as part of your daily routine." 

There are many options available to keep your dog entertained and stimulated - for dogs that like squeaky toys, interactive toys, or toys that offer a nice treat reward - and it won't take you long to work out what it is that stimulates your dog.

Below are a few suggestions for keeping your dog entertained & happy:

Kongs

Stuff your dog's daily food into a Kong and leave them to work the food out while you are at work.  Kongs can be frozen to create more interest.  They are dishwasher safe too!  You can also buy Kong Dispensers that release Kongs at predetermined intervals throughout the day. 

Treat Balls

There are many treat balls available on the market. We've got the round ball option or the more challenging cube - the Buster Cube.  Simply place your dog's dry food in the opening and let your dog roll it around all day to dislodge the food.  Buy a few different kinds of treats balls to keep their interest peaked.  Why not feed your dog a portion of their daily dry food from the treat ball?

Busy Buddy Twist-n-Treat Toys

Busy Buddy Twist-n-Treat is a great toy for providing mental stimulation and food rewards.  You can make it hard or easy for your dog.  This options is also great for feeding your dog their daily dry food allowance - throw away the food bowl (it's far too easy!).

Bones and Chews

Once or twice a week provide your dog with a recreational bone, rawhide or a pig's ear.  This will help to satisfy your dog's chewing instincts while providing entertainment.  In warmer weather give the bone still partly frozen to prolong the pleasure!  Remember that all food provided as treats must be taken into consideration in your dog's daily diet.

Treasure Hunts

Hide your dog's daily food in tiny portions around the house or yard.  Make him hunt for it!  We especially like this game since they never know if they've found it all and keep hunting, providing hours of entertainment!  Make them work for their food - it's what they're bred to do!

Dogcicles

Freeze some food into an ice-cream or margarine container with chicken stock or water.  Give it to your dog on a hot day.  You can also freeze a rope into it and tie it from a tree or pergola, your dog will sit under it waiting for the treats to thaw and drop to the ground.

Sandpit 

Buy a kids clam shell and fill it with dirt or sand.  Bury treats and toys inside to make a legal pit.  Encourage your dog to dig here rather than indiscriminately around your garden.

Rotate their Toys

Buy several dog toys and rotate them daily to keep your dog's interest in them.  Supply 3-5 toys daily.  Have a combination of soft toys, squeaky toys, hard rubber toys, etc.  Keep rotating daily to avoid your dog becoming bored with the same old toys.

Outings

Take your dog with you as you run your errands - simply to get him out of the house for a short while.  If you're popping out to the shop to pick up takeaway for dinner or to pick up the koids from school, take the dog with you for a car ride.  However keep in mind the dangers of dogs in hot cars in the hotter months.

Play Dates

Check among your relatives, friends and colleagues for suitable playmates for your dog.  Organise play dates with these dogs once or twice a week as a way to break up your dogs daily routine.  If you don't know any suitable dogs a few trips to your local dog park should sort that out!

Doggy Daycare

There are an increasing number of doggy daycare centres around now.  Consider dropping your dog off once or twice a week as a break from his normal routine.  Many dog walkers will also offer day care as part of their service.  If not, have a friend or relative look after your dog for a day.

Dog Walkers

Consider employing the services of a dog walker to exercise your dog for you.  You may only require their services once or twice a week when you have other activities on.  Dog walkers can come to your home and play or just cuddle with your dog also.

** These great ideas sourced from the article "Backyard Fun For Dogs" from Danielle and Urban Dog Training - www.urbandogtraining.com.au.

When your puppy is unsupervised, whether indoors or outdoors, it is important to have somewhere safe in which to place him. Unattended puppies learn bad habits quickly and can cause damage to household items easily. Injures and even death can befall an unsupervised puppy in the blink of an eye. Puppies die from chewing on electrical cords, suffocate in plastic bags, drown in pools or ponds, get caught up in curtain cords and strangle to death. Keeping your puppy safe from harm is one of your responsibilities as a pet owner.

Unless you can supervise your puppy 100% of the time, you need to crate train him.

Many people have preconceived ideas about crates, viewing them as cages or puppy jails. Nothing could be further from the truth. Crate training is an effective way to keep both your puppy and your possessions safe from harm.

When properly introduced puppies, come to love their crate and view it as a safe haven and a place to go to rest.

Crate training is absolutely mandatory if:

1. Children reside in the same house as the puppy or visit regularly.  Puppies and children need their own space away from one another. If you have a crate trained puppy you can teach your children that the puppy must not be disturbed when he’s in his crate. You will avoid dog bites if your puppy has somewhere he can go to get away from pestering children.
2. You have another dog or other dogs visit regularly. Puppies are very exhausting to older dogs who often need time out. Placing your puppy in his crate for a sleep will provide your older dog with some peace and some all important solitude. Also, some dogs can intimidate, bully
   or frighten little puppies by coming on way too strong.. If your puppy has somewhere to go to when he’s afraid, the experience is likely to be less traumatic.
3. You intend to participate in dogs sports or obedience.  Dogs that participate in dos sports and obedience often need to spend 3-4 hours in their crates at sporting events. It is absolutely exhausting to have a dog on the end of a lead at a dog sporting event for this amount of time.  Most dogs that participate in these events are crate trained.
4. You intend to travel with your dog. When dogs travel, they do so in crates. Even on long car trips it is much more comfortable for your dog to be inside a crate than on a seat belt which restricts movement. Of course, your dog should never be loose in the car, in a car accident he will become a projectile, potentially seriously injuring other passengers.
5. Your dog will regularly visit grooming salons. When visiting grooming salons dogs are kept in crates – end of story. If your dog is not already crate trained this could cause great stress and may make him whine or bark all day. Apart from the obvious effects of this on your dog, consider the groomers who are subjected to the protests of your dog for hours on end.
6. You want your puppy to feel at home during stays at the vet.  If your dog requires a stay at the vet clinic, chances are he is unwell. The stress of being unwell, coupled with the stress of not being accustomed to crate confinement will cause your dog distress. If he’s already crate trained he can concentrate on getting well.

Benefits of Crate Training

• You can cook a meal, take a shower or answer the phone without having to worry about what your puppy is getting into.
• Crates teach puppies how to ‘self settle’ and calm themselves down, a skill they’re not born with.
• By teaching your puppy to settle and chew a Kong or Bone in their crate they learn appropriate chew toy habits rather than learning to indiscriminately chew everything and anything.
• Your puppy can sleep in the bedroom with you if he’s in a crate. You won’t have to lock him away in a laundry or bathroom. Your puppy will feel secure knowing you are in the room with him. Remember that before you bought him home, he was sleeping with his littermates and sleeping alone may be scary to him.
• Puppies like small spaces when they’re anxious or scared. Your puppy will feel more secure in his crate if he’s worried about anything.
• Your puppy needs time out from you too. Humans demand a lot from puppies and they need solitude also.  Puppies get over-tired just like human children. When your puppy is over-tired you can put him into his crate for an enforced sleep.
• You can duck out to the hairdressers, shops or visit a friend for a coffee knowing that your puppy and your home will come to no harm.
• Crates are great for assisting with housetraining. Puppies will not eliminate where they sleep unless they are forced to.
• Crates are excellent for car travel. They keep your puppy safe and secure in the car.

Common Objections to Crate Training

• But they’re so expensive.  Agreed, but take a moment to consider how much your lounge suite, your carpet, your irrigation system etc cost you. Puppies destroy these and many other items in the blink of an eye.
• But he won’t go into the crate.  This is where training comes in. Teach your puppy that the crate is a happy place, feed him his meals inside. Leave treasures inside for him to find.
• But he cries when I put him into the crate.  Wait him out. Attending to him when he’s crying, whining or barking will only teach him to be unsettled in the crate. Wait for a period of quiet and then let him out.
• I just don’t like the idea of it, it looks like a jail.  That’s they way humans view crates. When properly introduced dogs adore their crates. After all, it’s just an indoor kennel. Remember, dogs are denning animals; they enjoy the feeling of security that enclosed spaces give them.

What Size Crate?

A crate needs to be large enough for your puppy to stand up, turn around and lie down. If a crate is too big your puppy may sleep up one end and toilet at the other end.

If you have a breed that will grow much larger as it ages you have three choices:

1. Buy a crate suitably sized for your puppy while he is young, then as he grows and is toilet-trained buy another crate that accommodate his adult size.
2. Buy a crate that will accommodate your dog’s adult size and block up one end with pillows, cushions, an esky etc. As your puppy grows you can give him more room.
3. You can purchase a crate with a divider that will expand with your puppy.

What Type of Crate?

Crates come in three main types:

1. Plastic moulded (Airline Approved)
2. Powder Coated Metal
3. Soft Sided

You would be wise NOT to buy a soft sided crate for a puppy. When they begin teething at around 13-14 weeks they will chew it to pieces! Stick to either the plastic moulded or powder coated metal crates.  When using a powder coated metal crate it is often wise to place a blanket over the crate to help the puppy feel more secure and less exposed when in his crate.

How Long Can A Puppy Spend In a Crate?

Generally, you can place a puppy in a crate for around 2 hours through the day and/or overnight. You will need to set your alarm to take your puppy out every 3-4 hours for toileting overnight.

If you work, you will need a long-term confinement area such as a bathroom, laundry, playpen, sideway etc where you can place your puppy in addition to the crate. His crate should be placed in the long-term confinement area.

A Final Word

Every dog trainer I know has a crate trained dog. If that’s what we do and we have well behaved, happy dogs then why on Earth would you do anything different?

** This great crate training advice has been sourced with the permission of Danielle and Urban Dog Training - www.urbandogtraining.com.au.

Now that Santa has given you a playful, pouncing, pup, what are you going to do with it? Do you know how to care for it properly and about its vaccinations, worming and other health care needs?

Perhaps now is a good time to go through some of the basics of puppy care.

Vaccinations

Dogs can be and should be vaccinated against the diseases commonly called Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvovirus and Canine Cough.

Some variation in vaccination schedules exists, but a useful guide is that your pup should be given its first vaccination at six to eight weeks of age. Your vet will most likely use a three-in-one vaccine, containing distemper, measles and parvovirus strain. The measles component is added to give better protection against distemper. This is necessary because the pup may have immunity from its mother (maternal immunity) which may inactivate the distemper vaccine.

Your vet will usually give the next vaccination at 12 to 14 weeks of age. This is usually a four-in-one vaccination. However, a fifth component can be added too. The four components are to give protection against the diseases distemper, hepatitis and parvovirus and against parainfluenza infections. The fifth component is to give protection against the Bordetella bacterium. The parainfluenza virus and the Bordetella bacterium are the two bugs which cause canine cough.

Typically, your vet will advise that a third vaccination be given at approximately 16 weeks of age, especially if you want to guarantee your pup's protection against canine cough and parvovirus.

If you want the best protection currently available, ensure your dog is vaccinated against all five diseases.

Heartworm

Heartworm disease has been around for years. Thankfully, due to modern heartworm preventive medications, the disease is a lot less common than it used to be.

You should start your pup on heartworm preventive from eight weeks of age. While the  daily medication containing Diethylcarbamazine Citrate, or DEC for short was the first heartworm preventative on the market and has saved the life of millions of dogs, most dogs owners have moved on from that preparation now and are using one of several varieties of monthly heartworm preventatives or the newer Once-A-Year heartworm preventative injection.  The Once-A-Year injection is the most convenient form as you don't have to rely on your memory and it can be tied in with your pet's yearly vaccinations.

Intestinal Worms

Hookworms and roundworms are the commonest worms found in pups, but they can also become infected with tapeworms and whipworms.

Worms commonly kill puppies, so don't take the matter too lightly.

Worm your pup when you get it and then every two weeks until it is three months old. From then to six months of age, worm it every month and from six months of age onwards, worm it every three months.

If your pup is on the monthly heartworm preventive that includes an intestinal wormer, then it will help control worm infections. However, the monthly heartworm medications do not necessarily kill all the intestinal worms that your pet can suffer from. Therefore, worming every three to six months is still important..

Flea Control 

They're a hopping nuisance! Thankfully, though, flea control is easier nowadays than it used to be. You can use monthly flea control preparations, such as Advantage, Frontline Plus, Advantix, Advocate, Sentinel or Revolution. 

Ask your veterinarian or Pets Unleashed pet care professional for more advice.

Diet

Feeding your dog a balanced diet is a basic, but important matter. Puppies under three months of age should be fed three to four times per day This can be reduced to two to three times per day at three months and gradually reduced to twice daily feeding until six months of age.

To ensure you are giving a proper balanced and quality diet, you may want to feed your pup on the "super-premium" pet foods that are available from veterinarians and pet shops.

These foods are highly digestible and balanced for each stage of the animal's life. Specific diets exist for puppies. The high digestibility means that the volume of faeces produced is small and the faeces are well formed and easy to pick up from the garden.

Training

Don't forget that your puppy will need training to be a well-behaved pooch. You should start training as early as possible. One of the best things you can do with your pup is to take it to a puppy preschool.  If you're in Brisbane, we recommend Urban Dog Training.  If not, try your local dog trainer, local vet or the RSPCA.

Related Information

Pets Unleashed New Puppy Checklist 

Why You Should Crate Train Your Puppy

A list of things you'll need for your new pet bird :

• Cage : The best advice is to get the biggest cage you can afford. For birds such as budgies cockatiels a wider cage rather than a taller cage will allow for flight. This should be considered if your bird is not hand tamed and therefore will not spend much if any time outside of it’s cage
• Water & Food Bowls : Check if these are included in the cage you have
• Food : Depending on which type of bird you have you will need specific food types. For parrots, pellets are available which contain all of the nutrients and vitamins your bird requires. Premium seed mixes can also be used but these must be supplemented with fresh fruit and vegetables. For lorikeets, dry and wet nectar mixes are available
• Perches & Ladders : Most birds like to have perches at a variety of heights. There are many types available, including ones with various grip sizes to encourage the use of different muscles in the birds feet. Native tree branches can be used. Sand perches can be used also to help keep your birds claws from growing too long
• Toys : Most birds but especially parrots & larger birds require stimulation to prevent them becoming bored and unwell. Various types of toys are available. Birds can see colour and are often attracted to shiny things as well. It’ a good idea to buy a few and swap them around
• Calcium and Iodine Bells/ Perches/ Cuttlefish : Many pet birds are calcium and iodine deficient. This can lead to feather growth defects, weakness and illness. Calcium and iodine supplements are readily available in the form of perches and treat bells
• Vitamin Drops : these can be used to supplement food to ensure your bird has all of the required nutrients
• Seed Catcher : Depending on the type of cage you have a seed catcher can prevent seeds and food being thrown out of the cage as your pet bird eats
• Treats : These can vary from millet spray, to treat bells to sunflower seeds etc.  All treats these should be given sparingly to avoid obesity and ill health

Other things you might also want to consider :

• Shell grit (depends on type of bird)
• Silver sand / sand sheets for bottom of cage

Easter is just a few sleeps away with all the fun of the feast and, if your house is like mine, there will be chocolate eggs a plenty. And with every scrumptious egg being unwrapped, there will be a pooch or a puss with a 'Me too, please' expression on its  face.

Now, on occasion, you have to be cruel to be kind, and this is such an occasion. Chocolate and pets are not a good combination. Now a small piece will not cause any damage, but some impatient pets will plan a seek-and-destroy mission and will discover the stash of Easter eggs.  That's where problems will start.

Large amounts of chocolate can be dangerous for pets. Chocolate contains theobromine, a compound that is a cardiac stimulant and a diuretic.

If your dog eats too much chocolate, it could become over-excited and hyperactive. Due to the diuretic effect, it may pass large volumes of urine and it will be unusually thirsty. Vomiting and diarrhoea are also common but it is the effect of theobromine on your dog's heart that is the most dangerous.

Theobromine will either increase your dog's heart rate or may cause the heart to beat irregularly. Death is quite possible, especially if your dog exercises after the binge.

It is possible for a pet to eat a large quantity of chocolate and not show the effect for some hours afterwards. Death can occur within 24 hours.

Cocoa powder and cooking chocolate are the most toxic forms. A 10-kilogram dog can be seriously affected if it eats a quarter of a 250gm packet of cocoa powder or half of a 250gm block of cooking chocolate. These forms of chocolate contain ten times more theobromine than milk chocolate.

Semi-sweet chocolate and dark chocolate are the next most dangerous forms, with milk chocolate being the least dangerous. A dog needs to eat more than a 250gm block of milk chocolate to be affected. Obviously, the smaller the dog, the less it needs to eat.

The good news is that there are many other ways to help your pet celebrate Easter that don't rely on chocolate and that are a lot more fun for Pooch and Puss.

Grab some Carob Drops or Yoghurt Drops this Easter for a yummy Easter Feast.  These are made especially for pets and are loved by both dogs and cats. 

An Easter Bon-Bon

Use a toilet roll core as an Easter bon-bon. For dogs, fill the core with sensible food treats, fold the ends over and wrap it in colourful paper. Let Pooch do the unwrapping because for dogs, that most of the fun.

Cats are a bit more restrained in their gluttony so rather than wrapping the bon-bon, fold just one end over and place some flavoursome treats inside. Allow the furry paw to explore the toiler roll core.

You can achieve the same with a tooth-paste carton and for big dogs, hide a raw, meaty bone inside a wrapped cereal box.

Frozen Gloup

For another Easter delight, start with an empty margarine container. Fill this will nutritious snacks such as dry food, some liver treats, maybe a chicken wing or an ox tail or a even a lump of teeth-flossing tough steak. Now the finishing touch - poor some vegemite broth or lactose-free milk (pets don't tolerate cow's milk well) over the whole lot and freeze it!

Present that to your pooch for its Easter surprise and, while you might think the Gloup is revolting, your Pooch will love the puzzle of working out how to remove the goodies and the bone from inside the ice puzzle.

Chocolate Meat Balls

For those of you that cannot resist the temptation to give Pooch or Puss a small amount of chocolate, try this delight. Roll a dessertspoon of raw mince into a ball and freeze in some carob or yoghurt drops.  Now cover the whole frozen rissole with the milk-chocolate version of Ice Magic and when it sets, give that to your pets!! They will think all their Christmases have come at Easter! This small amount of chocolate is quite safe.

The RSPCA recommends pet owners keep their cats indoors from dawn to dusk. Many people are now choosing to keep their cats indoors at all times. Why?

• An indoor cat has less chance of getting injured or killed on the roads
• An indoor cat has less chance of contracting diseases
• Less risk to native wildlife

A cat with a well set up indoor household can have a very happy and long life. Here's some of the things to consider when setting up home for your new kitten or cat:

• Cat scratching poles or furniture: An extensive range of types, at various prices and sizes are available. Depending on the type you chooses, your cat can use these to both exercise on, sleep in, and scratch their claws on. Scratching is a natural instinct for your cat. Providing a scratching pole helps prevent your cat from scratching other household items. Using Catnip spray can help attract your cat to the correct toys to play and scratch with.
• Provide a variety of toys for you and your kitten or cat to play with. Swap the toys to prevent them getting bored with them. Many toys are now available which allow you to play interactively with your cats - e.g. laser lights, catnip infused bubble blowers, toy mice which pop out and squeak when you press a button. Cat tunnels are also excellent and fun toys to have for your cat to play in.
• Cat harnesses and leads are also available which allow you to safely take your cat into the garden.
• Consider using specialised indoor cat formula food. These are scientifically designed for the nutritional requirements of indoor cats.

So, the New Indoor Cat Essentials are:

• Premium Quality Food
• Litter Tray & Litter
• Collar with bell - just in case your cat does go outside
• Carry cage for transport visits to the vet
• Food and water bowls
• A visit to the vet for a health check and vaccinations
• Flea, tick and worming treatments

** DISCLAIMER: This article is the personal opinion of the Pets Unleashed team. We always recommend seeking specialist or veterinarian advice when it comes to making decisions about the health or well-being of your pet, particularly in respect to any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention.

If you have never had chickens as pets then you are missing out on one of life's rich experiences. They are absorbing pets and produce consumable by-products! They are also easy to keep healthy but there are some common conditions and diseases that you need to watch or you may end up having a crook chook.

Identifying a Crook Chook

If a chicken is unwell, it will be less active than the others. The bird's comb is a good barometer of health. If it is large, red and mostly standing erect the bird is well, but if it becomes pale and limp the bird is likely to be unwell.

The breast should be plump, round and convex. If it is concave and the keel bone becomes prominent due to thinning of the breast, the bird is also likely to be unwell.

Chickens produce large volumes of green and white manure. The manure should form a semisolid splotch when deposited. If it is quite liquid, the bird has diarrhoea and needs attention.

They should breathe steadily with no sign of wheezing or of moisture around their beak. While chickens will pant if hot or stressed, this should not be to excess. If unusual breathing occurs or if they are moist around the beak, respiratory disease could be a problem.

Some conditions do occur commonly and these are listed below.

Broody Hens

If you have poultry, and you are treating them correctly you are bound to have a broody hen at some stage. Having a broody hen is a compliment to your flock management skills. Broodiness occurs when the hens are getting lots of good food and when they have a warm comfortable dark nest and a clutch of eggs to mother, or, in other words - all the good things in life.

Brooding occurs because a motherly hen wants to hatch eggs. This is good news if you have fertilized eggs and want to hatch chickens but bad news if you are keeping chickens for egg production.

A broody hen will stay in the nest continually, night and day, and will be quite aggressive to other hens that want to use the nesting box. This will stop the other birds from laying and a big reduction in egg production occurs.

To solve the problem, the hen needs to be gently deprived of life's luxuries. This is usually done by removing the bird from the nest and placing her in a stark cage on her own for a few days.

Nesting material is eliminated and the cage needs to be well ventilated so that the hen has no ability to create a warm nesting spot beneath her.

In most cases, being kept away from the nest for a three to four days will stop the hen being broody but keep the hen closely observed to ensure she doesn't go back to her old ways as soon as she is returned to the pen.

Moulting

Moulting is the normal process by which chickens shed old feathers and replace them with new ones. Poultry go through a major moult in late summer or autumn. In autumn the moult replaces the summer cover with a thicker coat of feathers to provide winter warmth. Mostly, the moult is a gradual progressive process and nothing is noticed but some birds moult quickly. These birds look scruffy and more closely resembling a feather duster with an identity crisis rather than a chicken.

Moulting consumes a large amount of energy and therefore moulting chooks need access to good quality food. They will often go off the lay during a moult, putting their energies instead into replacing their feathers and maintaining body temperature rather than into egg production.

Internal Parasites

Internal parasites such as worms and single-celled parasites called coccidia are common problems with back yard chickens. Many species of worms in poultry are spread by the birds eating insects, slugs and earthworms which act as hosts for immature stages of the worms.

Worms reduce egg production, cause diarrhoea, loss of weight and ultimately cause the death of poultry. Worms are usually treated by the addition of medication to the flock's drinking water but medicated seed can also be purchased. Poultry should be wormed every three months to prevent infections.

Coccidia is a condition seen more commonly in young birds because older fowl tend to develop immunity to the disease. It causes the development of bloodstained diarrhoea. The disease is controlled and treated by the addition of medications to the water or occasionally to the food. Be aware that some medications used to control coccidiosis may no be suitable for egg-laying chickens so be sure to ask your vet about this when you seek treatment for your birds.

External Parasites

A crook chook could also be affected by external parasites such as lice, mites, fleas and ticks. Some of these bugs don't cause much of a problem but others can cause a drop in egg production and body weight and intense skin irritation.

Treatment involves a thorough cleaning and disinfection of the flock's pen. This should then be followed by treatment of the pen, equipment and the birds with insecticide dusts or sprays. Your veterinarian, produce agency or pet shop can advise on suitable preparations. Modern, commonly used insecticides do not affect the safety of the eggs from consumption.

Backyard poultry are good pets. A flock of half a dozen happy hens will keep you amply supplied with eggs and you will have some left over to give to friends. For more information on chickens go the Department of Primary industry's site at http://www.dpi.qld.gov.au or look for the book A Guide to Keeping Poultry in Australia by Dorothy Reading.